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Discussion Starter #1
Are there any tricks to replacing the battery ? The dealer wants $500+ and I found an AGW replacement for $200 !
Can anyone walk me thru the process ?
 

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Sorry I can't answer your question but can you share why you are replacing your battery? Age of battery etc?
 

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It's under the 'frunk' black cover. If you need explanation how to do it, better get some help;). As far as the replacement, just make sure it's very close to the OEM, especially height and depth. I can be wider as there's room to spare. And make sure it's an AGM (absorbed glass mat), not a flooded cell, and at least of the same AmpH rating. Oh, and fully charge it before even connecting it; that extends its useful life quite a bit. Good luck.
 

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Removing the plastic cover in the frunk is pretty easy. There are two spots that are basically handles. Pull up a bit on them and slide it forward. It's obvious how to get to the battery and replace it once the cover is removed. That said, the manual claims that the new battery "must be initialized in the control unit". No idea how you do that.
 

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I thought on a 981 there was some magic mumbo-jumbo that required PIWIS. Hence the exorbitant price that dealers charge. This is different than the 987, whose battery could be replaced easily without the use of Voodoo chicken bones.
 

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Are there any tricks to replacing the battery ? The dealer wants $500+ and I found an AGW replacement for $200 !
Can anyone walk me thru the process ?
Sorry I can't answer your question but can you share why you are replacing your battery? Age of battery etc?
No car information in your signature, so no guess as to why you are considering replacement... ?
 

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On my 981 in regards to replacing the battery the manual says "let the dealer do it so the new battery can be initialized". I am not sure but I think that is code talk for "if you disconnect the battery your car may not run and might have to be towed to the dealer so they can use PIWIS to initialize various body control modules. I say that after reading many posts in this forum from people whose battery died and after they replaced it the car exhibited very strange behavior include not starting and running.

See what other people say that have been successful in replacing the battery themselves. I think if I was doing it I would try to figure out a way to keep 12 volts on the car while replacing the battery so it never lost power during the process. Hopefully that is a long way off for me and I have a lot of time to figure out a way to do that.
 
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On my 981 in regards to replacing the battery the manual says "let the dealer do it so the new battery can be initialized". I am not sure but I think that is code talk for "if you disconnect the battery your car may not run and might have to be towed to the dealer so they can use PIWIS to initialize various body control modules. I say that after reading many posts in this forum from people whose battery died and after they replaced it the car exhibited very strange behavior include not starting and running.

See what other people say that have been successful in replacing the battery themselves. I think if I was doing it I would try to figure out a way to keep 12 volts on the car while replacing the battery so it never lost power during the process. Hopefully that is a long way off for me and I have a lot of time to figure out a way to do that.
Interesting, didn't know that, I replaced my battery on the 997 and it's a pretty simple process, get the right size battery, disconnect it, pull it out, put in new one, connect it and done. It took like 10 minutes.
 

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Needing a dealer to replace a battery would be illegal (my closest dealer is 400 miles away). If your battery goes flat, a jump should get you going... and that's exactly what happens. I removed the battery on my brand new 2016 GTS for hours, and not even the seat memory was erased. At that point I didn't have any radio settings, so can't say if those would be reset or not. The only reason to possibly need to code something is if you don't put exactly the same battery, but still doubt that with an AGM battery. The alternator stops charging when battery is fully charged, be it a 10 or 20 Amp-H battery. Now, if you were to put a lithium-ion or such, then that's when you'd need to code something, since the charging needs are different. Manuals tell you to go to dealers for almost everything nowadays. Anyway, this is what I do before removing a battery: I fully charge it after leaving it exposed (meaning hood open and no alarm), and wait until the car goes into 'sleep' mode (all lights go out) before removing it. Finally, I've tried in the past those gizmos that connect to the console with a 9V battery, and never had any luck with them; too little voltage for a modern car. Plus, as mentioned, none of my key settings were erased, so not necessary. Next time will check PCM settings, but I suspect they should be retained as well (somebody can comment on that for the record). An extension is needed to remove the bolt that holds the bracket, and always remove the '-' first (and reinstall it last). Oh, and put a thin layer of petroleum jelly on the new posts after cleaning them with a dry microfiber rag, then install the cables. Good luck.
 

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Yep - I ended-up paying the exhorbitant dealer price of $575 and the dealer said they had to reprogram it AGAIN despite the fact it was an OEM battery replacement.
Apparently, the specs had changed since the original 2014 edition. These AGM batteries only last 3 years....and you must put on a battery saver in the off-season or else the battery is toast in no time flat.
Crazy stuff.
Note: I had found a replacement battery at National Tire and Battery for only $200....but the dealer said I was commited to the OEM battery.
 

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Interesting, didn't know that, I replaced my battery on the 997 and it's a pretty simple process, get the right size battery, disconnect it, pull it out, put in new one, connect it and done. It took like 10 minutes.
Interesting...see my post about the dealer saying they had to reprogram the main module for even an OEM replacement.
I understood that the reprogramming is only necessary when changing to a non-AGM battery or a non-OEM battery.
Wow, these dealers can lie like crazy.
 

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Interesting, didn't know that, I replaced my battery on the 997 and it's a pretty simple process, get the right size battery, disconnect it, pull it out, put in new one, connect it and done. It took like 10 minutes.
Interesting...see my post about the dealer saying they had to reprogram the main module for even an OEM replacement.
I understood that the reprogramming is only necessary when changing to a non-AGM battery or a non-OEM battery.
Wow, these dealers can lie like crazy.
Remember 997 is of the same generation as the 987, and their batteries are conventional flooded cell with the same charging system. So don't apply Ynot's experience to a 981/991. Besides AGM, there's a big difference in the alternator and auto start-stop makes the charging logic more complex on 9x1. I think I'll keep my 987 (with a $120 AGM aftermarket battery).
 
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Yes, the batteries in the 981 require an initializing. Apparently with the new technology the computers monitor the aging of the battery and make adjustments to the electrical system accordingly. When a new or different battery is introduced, the computer doesn't recognize it as in "this does not compute" (a technical term). As a result, the new battery must be initialized or it's life will be extremely diminished.


FYI, BMW and other manufacturers have been using this technology for a number of years.
 

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FYI, BMW and other manufacturers have been using this technology for a number of years.
Agreed, our 2011 BMW X5 has the same requirement.
 

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So we need to find a way to initialize the battery without having to go to the dealer, since, I believe, it would be illegal to require this function to only but performed by a dealer. Too bad the Durametric can't perform this function.
 

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Yep - I ended-up paying the exhorbitant dealer price of $575 and the dealer said they had to reprogram it AGAIN despite the fact it was an OEM battery replacement.
Apparently, the specs had changed since the original 2014 edition. These AGM batteries only last 3 years....and you must put on a battery saver in the off-season or else the battery is toast in no time flat.
Crazy stuff.
Note: I had found a replacement battery at National Tire and Battery for only $200....but the dealer said I was commited to the OEM battery.
Always done this when parked, so far so good!

What year is you car?
 

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I bought a Walmart battery for about $110.00, exact size and shape, even has the 'overflow bleed hole'. Clipped 12 volt battery charger to the leads, then plugged it in, before removing car leads from the battery. Car thinks it still has a battery attached. Stood in frunk, lifted out old battery, placed new one in, tightened car leads, then unplugged battery charger before disconnecting it. Total cost $110.00 for battery with exchange. My 2011 987 needed an H8. Check on line or in your manual. No glitches or hick ups. BTW, battery was still starting car no problem, but I was getting all sorts of weird messages, instead of usual TP, miles to empty etc.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart-MAXX-H8-Automotive-Battery/16782659

Machog
 

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I don't think keeping power to the car while swapping the battery is the issue. First, we are talking about 981's only here. Second, I have never lost, or heard of anyone losing, any critical settings by losing power to the vehicle by disconnecting or killing the existing battery.

I believe what we are talking about here is that if a new battery is installed, the ECU needs to be told so, via initialization, that the battery is new. This ensures that the system properly monitors and charges the new battery correctly, ensuring best battery life. This is related to the start/stop technology somehow.

Please correct me if I am wrong here.
 

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I don't think keeping power to the car while swapping the battery is the issue. First, we are talking about 981's only here. Second, I have never lost, or heard of anyone losing, any critical settings by losing power to the vehicle by disconnecting or killing the existing battery.

I believe what we are talking about here is that if a new battery is installed, the ECU needs to be told so, via initialization, that the battery is new. This ensures that the system properly monitors and charges the new battery correctly, ensuring best battery life. This is related to the start/stop technology somehow.

Please correct me if I am wrong here.
Also read you other thread, I am inclined to agree with you, the computer based systems in these cars require specific information about their components to properly monitor them and react accordingly. So much of the car is monitored and adjusted continually that it is safe to assume the electrical power source will undergo the same checks.

And especially for things like Auto stop/start, it has to know based on conditions (radio on, AC on, lights etc) and calculated against the battery age/condition and reserves just when it can activate stop/start and how long the engine can remain off until it restarts and begins to replenish the batteries reserves to maintain operability. Imagine if you were in the middle of traffic, the computer stops the engine but it cannot restart because of insufficient cranking power, now there would be some complaining!

Having all of this fancy technology comes with a price, it is known and advertised to be in the car, keeping these systems happy and working properly requires that certain steps be taken, if you don't like it then don't buy the car, or if you replace parts with either substandard parts or don't initialize the system properly don't complain when it does work like you expect it to... IMHO it has nothing to do with Porsche trying to keep you coming back, they (should) know their product best and do what is necessary for everything to keep running like it did when delivered. :2cents:
 
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Also read you other thread, I am inclined to agree with you, the computer based systems in these cars require specific information about their components to properly monitor them and react accordingly. So much of the car is monitored and adjusted continually that it is safe to assume the electrical power source will undergo the same checks.

And especially for things like Auto stop/start, it has to know based on conditions (radio on, AC on, lights etc) and calculated against the battery age/condition and reserves just when it can activate stop/start and how long the engine can remain off until it restarts and begins to replenish the batteries reserves to maintain operability. Imagine if you were in the middle of traffic, the computer stops the engine but it cannot restart because of insufficient cranking power, now there would be some complaining!

Having all of this fancy technology comes with a price, it is known and advertised to be in the car, keeping these systems happy and working properly requires that certain steps be taken, if you don't like it then don't buy the car, or if you replace parts with either substandard parts or don't initialize the system properly don't complain when it does work like you expect it to... IMHO it has nothing to do with Porsche trying to keep you coming back, they (should) know their product best and do what is necessary for everything to keep running like it did when delivered. :2cents:
So, with that being said, I would still consider replacing a battery as basic maintenance, so would expect Porsche to provide a simple cost free way for us to initialize a new battery. Just as I would expect them to provide a simple cost free way to reset the service reminder. :)

Now if we could just get those Durametric guys motivated.
 
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