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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yesterday, I took the Boxster out for a ride. It idled a bit rough, but was otherwise ok. After a 2 miles, I got a "Possible Engine Fault, ok to drive on. Shut the car off at my destination a few miles later and restarted, all ok. Then 1 mile later, fault again. Got on the highway, performance and acceleration were fine. Then suddenly missing badly. Could not accelerate without heavy shaking.

Got back and plugged in the Durametric.


The following codes were displayed:

P0300
P0301
P0302
P0303
P0304
P0305
P0306
P0172
P1382
P0418

First, the P0418 code is PDK. Don't know exactly what it is, but when the car acted up, manual shifting disabled. Auto shifting was fine, so it may reflect a shut down of certain PDK functions related to the engine fault.

I know many have had the misfire codes (P0300-P0306) related to coils, but I got all of them, so since the shaking came miles later than the original fault warning, they may be related to a limp mode.

The P1382 stated Cylinder 16 Random multiple cylinder. Don't know what that is.

P0172 stated Fuel Trim Bank 1 System Too Rich Upper Limit Exceeded. I'm thinking this might be the important one, and found these general, possible causes:



  • Air Measurement System
  • MAF sensor (contaminated
  • Damaged
  • Corroded connector
  • Etc.).
  • Fuel System
  • Fuel pressure regulator (vacuum hose off
  • Diaphram leak
  • Malfunctioning
  • Etc.).
  • Leaking fuel injectors.
  • Fuel return line restricted.
  • Fuel rail pressure sensor (incorrect reading).
  • EVAP canister purge valve leak (when canister is full).
  • Base engine
  • Engine oil contamination.

Later in the day I started the car again and moved it, and it ran fine, no shaking. Fault remained and I did not clear the codes. I'll have to schedule service, but thought I would throw this up for review in case anyone has previous experience with this issue.
 

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That description sure sounds like a bad coil to me. I don't know why you'd get a code for all of them, but perhaps the Duremetric reader can't determine which coil is bad. Pretty much everything else listed could be a secondary effect of a bad coil.
 

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You didn't specify miles on the car, if it has any powertrain mods, and if bought new or used. But yes, it's a bit frustrating you get a bunch of codes totally unrelated to the actual issue. Not very helpful. On a friend's new GT3RS we were driving back 300 miles, at 80, a Christmas tree of faults lighted up, including PDK codes, limp mode, ABS, TC and PSM disabled, etc, all for a bad rear speed sensor. And surprisingly, no such code. Instead of electronics making things easier, seems like the opposite. Ha ha. But yes, I also suspect a bad coil (or coils), due to multiple previous posts with similar symptoms, especially with headers... but a few with fully stock engines have been reported as well. Newer coils supposedly hold up better, so you should consider replacing them all if your car doesn't have those (don't remember when they were implemented, but somewhere in the 2015 model year, for what I remember). Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the replies guys. You may be right that it is coils, and since I think I need to rule them out first, I ordered 6pcs and will install them and see what happens. If that doesn't solve the problem, I will let the dealer have a crack at it. Car has 55k miles on it, it's an early 2013 base, and is stock other than an ECU tune.

I'll report back after they are installed and tested.
 

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I'd bet some cash that will take care of your issue, but keep us posted. It was a good move, since you car surely has the old coils, and dealer would only replace the bad one. If it's anything else, at least you don't have to worry about coils anymore. And they're cheap enough. For what I understand, even new ones can fail, especially with headers, but it's much less likely. If I keep my 2016 long enough, I'd also replace all plugs at 50K miles; cheap insurance. Good luck.
 

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Thanks for the replies guys. You may be right that it is coils, and since I think I need to rule them out first, I ordered 6pcs and will install them and see what happens. If that doesn't solve the problem, I will let the dealer have a crack at it. Car has 55k miles on it, it's an early 2013 base, and is stock other than an ECU tune.

I'll report back after they are installed and tested.
Please post pictures. I am considering changing my plugs and coils as well. I’m a little intimidated with the process...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
There was a slight rough idle when cold. Because of circumstances, I probably will not be able to get pictures, but there are pictures of the coil locations available elsewhere, and the job should be straight forward.

Plugs were changed at 40k, as per the maintenance requirements.

A certain "source" seems to think it is something more (worse) than coils, but I'm going to do them first and see how it behaves.

Upon reading others experiences with coil problems, they all got the same group of warnings and behavior I did. Can't say they got all the same codes, but not everyone does/can check their codes, so...
 

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Why do I think its the MAF?
It's possible, but without an oiled filter (OP said his car is stock when I asked), a failing MAF sensor doesn't typically show those symptoms. Since at least one cylinder is misfiring, it has to be spark or fuel related IMO. We know of the many coil failures in the past, with similar symptoms, hence our first guess. But to be honest, with misfire codes in ALL cylinders, it might be fuel pump related (not enough pressure, etc), affecting all cylinders. What's frustrating is Porsche (and others) has not kept up with diagnostic troubleshooting; many times the myriad of codes thrown don't even include the actual culprit. That's just ridiculous, and a HUGE detraction from keeping their cars after warranty. Now remembered how a misdiagnosed bad idle control valve issue on M3 V8s (I owned one) turned into a nightmare for BMW, before they could pin it (by accident) on that valve. They changed doubleVANOS, heads, entire fuel systems, etc because of bad diagnostic info. Our engines are less complex than that one (no individual TBs, etc), but still complex enough. The good news is by the time warranty is over on the first cars, almost all issues have been documented on a forum like this one, but takes a lot of work to be on top of them. No fun having to pay for extensive diagnostic troubleshooting when an appropriate code should have been thrown. Makes you wonder if that's on purpose, to both minimize costs to manufacturer and maximize profits for dealers (a win-win in their view, I guess). Oh well. Keep us posted OP.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well, it wasn't the coils. Installed them on Saturday, cleared the codes, took it for a ride. Rough idle remained, and codes returned. The old coils looked like new, and they were the Beru ending in -05. The new ones are the Borg Warner ending in -07.

So now it's off to the dealer next week. Will update then.
 

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The new ones are the Borg Warner ending in -07.
That is interesting. I had the latest in my files (just in case. He he) as -06 Berus. Guess Porsche kept having problems and now switched to BWs with -07 ending. Will update my files. Thank you for the info. And yes, at 5 years old, it's possible your issues could be battery related. Since you're going to replace it anyway, might as well do that before taking the car in, just in case that's the culprit. No sense having to pay diagnostic/installation charges if not necessary, but up to you. Good luck, and keep us posted.
 

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Why do I think its the MAF? If it were coils, wouldn't it have some hiccuping during cold start and rough idle whilst cold.
From the documentation I have read there is no MAF in a 981, not trying to be pedantic here just don't want OP chasing wrong issue. The programming in 981 are based off of Manifold Absolute Pressure/Temp sensors (MAP/T). MAP sensors are not prone to fouling like MAF, but a bad MAP sensor would produce most of the symptoms and error codes you described.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks guys,
I was aware that there is no MAF (had to deal with the MAF on my 986), so I figure I'll let the dealer sort it out. Won't be replacing the battery before sending it in because need it set up with the PIWIS. So might as well let them do it all. Have a top issue they can fix while it's there too.
 

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Before my BS, I had a 2003 Z4. One morning, I started it, and it was rough as hell. It vibrated like one or two cylinders were not firing and the CEL came on. I plugged in my diagnostic tool, and it listed many codes including misfires in most cylinders. It didn't make any sense to me that so many things could spontaneously go bad. After poking around, I decided to clear all the codes and see if anything changed. I cleared all the codes, started it back up, and it purred like a happy kitten. I drove it for about two years without any problems. I mean it never even hiccuped. Then all of a sudden it did the same thing one morning. Again, I just cleared the codes, and all was fine for years. And it remained 100% fine until I sold it.

It was very strange.
 

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Any resolution on this? What did the dealer find?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Ok, so I picked the car up yesterday, and the only testing I did was the ride home, about 10 miles. So far the car runs and idles perfectly smooth, and no codes.

It was at the dealer for 4 days, and I had 3 things worked on, so I'll start with the topic of the thread, but comment on the others as they may be important to someone.

Rough running and codes: Dealer spent 3.5 hours total labor on this to diagnose and repair. As I mentioned previously, I replaced the coils before I took it in, and the plugs have only 15k on them. Dealer says the culprit was the bank 1 VVL solenoid was "partially stuck & bleeding pressure". They replaced the valve.

Using a google search I have found references to this elsewhere. What I wonder is, if this is an item that we can expect to give us problems, can we install them ourselves without needing a PIWIS. Part alone was under $200.

Conv. top stops halfway when lowering: It was doing this every time, and when you reverse it a few inches, you can then continue to lower it without issue. This behavior has been reported before, and my understanding was that there was a switch that goes bad, and it shows up when testing with the PIWIS, and it requires complete removal of the top mechanism to repair it. Dealer "reset stored values & performed basic settings, verified all switches OK". It works correctly now. 1 hour labor.

Replaced battery per my request: Charged 1 hour labor.

Totals after PCA discount were approximately:
$700 parts & labor for engine issue
$150 labor for top issue
$520 parts & labor for the battery

As I've stated previously in other threads, I think it is ridicules that we can't purchase and replace the battery without use of a PIWIS, but it is what it is, and I shouldn't have to worry about that again for a while.

So hopefully after a couple weeks of testing, I'll experience no further issue, and can get it in for state inspection before the weather turns bad.
 

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As I've stated previously in other threads, I think it is ridicules that we can't purchase and replace the battery without use of a PIWIS
I don't believe that to be correct. Plus it wouldn't make any sense, since there aren't dealers in every city (like mine). Anyway, I removed mine when new (to install/route a battery charger pigtail), charged it, reinstalled it a day later, and no issues. There's a lot of crap Porsche wants us to believe, to our wallet's detriment. He he.
 
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