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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
duplicate - sorry

I have a Base 981 standard CCR audio system.

I have removed my 981 OEM standard speakers. They measure 6.5" wide (16.6mm) x 2.5" deep (6mm). Looking for the best speakers to replace OEM.

There is also an empty 4" tweeter mount in the 981 base interior door to take advantage of.

The mounting brackets and moldings are very different than the S and above models after watching many install videos and reviewed install threads.

What have other people done to upgrade their shallow depth audio speakers in a Base 981 for the 6.5" and 4" speaker mounts?
 

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Re: duplicate - sorry

I completely replaced my base stereo with Illusion Audio Carbon series speakers. The 8" woofers will fit with a bracket, and the 4" mids as well, but you'll need to fabricate brackets. Mine are powered by a Mosconi DSP/AMP stuffed under the passenger seat where the Bose amp usually goes. I didn't get a dedicated subwoofer because I didn't want to compromise any trunk space. It sounds great... when parked. On the move, it's a different story as the road noise drowns out some of the bass. Don't get me wrong, it's light years ahead of the base stereo though, especially once the EQ and DSP are tuned properly.

One thing to note: check the orientation of the woofers when installed. There's a door stop bumper that extends into the area behind the speaker, and it was chopping the leads right off the speaker when I shut the door. The problem was solved by rotating the speaker.

I spent too much imo, but I enjoy having the upgraded head unit and speakers since I daily drive my car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: duplicate - sorry

I completely replaced my base stereo with Illusion Audio Carbon series speakers. The 8" woofers will fit with a bracket, and the 4" mids as well, but you'll need to fabricate brackets. Mine are powered by a Mosconi DSP/AMP stuffed under the passenger seat where the Bose amp usually goes. I didn't get a dedicated subwoofer because I didn't want to compromise any trunk space. It sounds great... when parked. On the move, it's a different story as the road noise drowns out some of the bass. Don't get me wrong, it's light years ahead of the base stereo though, especially once the EQ and DSP are tuned properly.

One thing to note: check the orientation of the woofers when installed. There's a door stop bumper that extends into the area behind the speaker, and it was chopping the leads right off the speaker when I shut the door. The problem was solved by rotating the speaker.

I spent too much imo, but I enjoy having the upgraded head unit and speakers since I daily drive my car.
Do you have any pictures of the fabricated brackets?
 

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So I just wanted to give an update on this. Turns out the original asshat installer had some weird crossover points, and didn't do any EQ tuning (despite billing me for it). I found this out 3 years later. Now that it's tuned properly, holy crap. It sounds so much better. Maybe still not worth $5k, but it's definitely good, and only lacking the lowest frequencies since I have no sub.

Sounds incredible when the engine is off, and still sounds pretty good cruising on the highway.
 

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Old thread I know but which model speakers did you use please
If you want the best, you can use Dynaudio MW182. That’s a 10in midbass woofer that will play down to 40hz before rolling off. A company called Rennspec sells adapters for Porsches.


There are several audio builds on DIYMobileAudio, here’s mine:
 

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If you want the best, you can use Dynaudio MW182. That’s a 10in midbass woofer that will play down to 40hz before rolling off. A company called Rennspec sells adapters for Porsches.


There are several audio builds on DIYMobileAudio, here’s mine:
If you want the best, you can use Dynaudio MW182. That’s a 10in midbass woofer that will play down to 40hz before rolling off. A company called Rennspec sells adapters for Porsches.


There are several audio builds on DIYMobileAudio, here’s mine:

Firing this back up...
That is an awesome build! Would anyone have a recommendation on direct speaker swaps for improving sound on the base system? I'm looking to get some depth and clarity but I'm my ears aren't that good to tell the difference.
 

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Firing this back up...
That is an awesome build! Would anyone have a recommendation on direct speaker swaps for improving sound on the base system? I'm looking to get some depth and clarity but I'm my ears aren't that good to tell the difference.
I can not speak directly about the base CDR system that has a low power (2 X 25w) built in amp 4 speaker system but share my speaker upgrade on my PCM3.1 Bose system. My 69 year old ears lack the ability to discern quality sound systems but I wanted to improve and get the most from the Bose system with only speaker upgrades and retaining the OEM amp. I started with the Musicar Dynaudio tweeter upgrade which greatly improved the high’s.

Rennspec then offered several mid and woofer speaker upgrades with adapters and wiring adapters. Some of the speaker options included Hertz, Audison and Dynaudio. I had several conversations with Rennspec before purchasing their mid priced AudisonVoce AV3.0 mid and Audison AP8 woofers. They recommended not overspending on the Dynaudio unless I was upgrading to a more powerful amp. The stock Bose speakers are 2 ohm and most speaker upgrades are 4 ohm so you will loose volume with the new speakers even if you gain clarity. I also had conversations with Musicar that recommended insulation in the door panels and discouraged me from the speaker upgrade due to the 2 ohm/ 4ohm weak amp issue and to test and compare them after insulating the door panels.

I went overboard with Dynamat and SoundSkin on the door skins and panels then installed the Audison speakers in the passenger side door and the OEM speakers in the driver door and tested them by switching right to left on different songs at high volume. The door insulation made a big improvement and I ended up using the new Audison mids and I kept the original OEM woofers which gives more base volume although not as clear. I would recommend insulating the doors first as it is an easy and inexpensive upgrade.
Jim
 
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Sound deadening/dampening is on my list to do whenever I get motivated to pull the door cards to send to Pedro…. Will also do the little wind deflector thingies while I have them off.


Shawn in VA (USA)
 

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Sound deadening/dampening is on my list to do whenever I get motivated to pull the door cards to send to Pedro…. Will also do the little wind deflector thingies while I have them off.


Shawn in VA (USA)
+1 on the wind deflector, love mine but the later 2014‘s can install without removing the door card just the interior triangle trim. Musicar posted sound dampening instructions on different sub forums on Rennlist including the 718 GT4 forum when they were offering group sales on their three stages of amp/speaker upgrades. I went overboard including pulling the middle panels to access the door skins and fully covered the door skins with Dynamat and and Blackhole tiles in a checkerboard pattern. I also used SoundSkin on the middle panels and door cards. A lot better results than I expected.
Jim
 
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03/14 build date—don’t rub it in


Shawn in VA (USA)
Mine is a 01/14 build date and the AWE deflector worked without removing the door card so you should be good. The interior trim triangle removes with a trim tool prying up from the bottom and if you have a visible Philips screw you should be good to go and able to enjoy your drive with the windows down.😆

Jim
 
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