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I've received "Boxster Spyder" style "PORSCHE" scripts that I want to install on my CS. I've read the instructions, but I was wondering how you guys who installed any side graphics dealt with the irregular shape of car's side, around the vent, and managed to keep the line horizontal...

I'm worried about this area:



Maybe the sticker material is flexible enough it's not an issue, but that ridge makes me wonder how that's gonna work... and at $150 a set, I'd rather not experiment too much... Advice welcome !
 

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The vinyl is flexible enough to go around that curve and still maintain a horizontal line look, HOWEVER, I would strongly encourage you to use someone who is skilled at installing vinyls or clear bras if you don't want to screw it up. I've done a set of these myself and while generally pleased with the outcome there are some minor imperfections in places where I think a pro would have done a better job, but I didn't care because I think I got my set for free or at a discount so my situation was different. If I paid retail from Porsche for these, and I had never done this sort of thing before, I'd find an installer that I trusted to do it right.
 

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Oooh...would you mind posting where you got these decals? I'm thinking about putting a set on my white CS as well.
 

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Installed my Cayman S decals with a buddy. Went on like a charm:



It's really not that difficult. You can do this. Follow my steps and you'll be amazed at yourself. The closest I ever came to installing graphics before this was scratch and sniff stickers on my Trapper Keeper back in middle school.

1. Buy the EOM decals. Their grade of vinyl is better. Its 3M stuff and does stretch and wont tear. Ive put on my windshield banner with an aftermarket company and while fairly pleased the material aint as good.

2. Its better to have four hands doing this than two, but the other two hands can be unskilled labor too. Basically just helping you keep from folding up the decals on themselves when you pull the backing off and having it stick to itself. Youll cuss like a sailor if and when this happens.

3. Clean the side of your car real good. Use Griot's Paint Prep if you've got it because it gets off all the contaminants on the paint. But, short of that, just clean it real well.

4. Dry fit the decals to make sure you got em on the proper sides of the car. They look similar but they go on specific sides. Use some painters tape which sticks but pulls off easily to just mock em up real quick. Eyeball it to make sure you dont need to send the product back. Decide how high or low you want the decal and reference that. Just make sure you use the same reference for the other side. Half inch from bottom of door, one inch up, etc. Whatever looks right to you. Make sure you center it as well so space is equal on both sides near the wheels. Just make a mental note of that distance target too.

4. OK take a squirt bottle of water and put a capful of soap in it. Dishsoap or whatever is fine. Just need a slippery concoction. Spray the entire area of the car down. Get it dripping wet. It cannot be TOO wet.

5. With buddys help, peel backing off. Make sure you each grab all four corners. Big decals like this like to flex and bend and roll over on themselves and stick to itself in a giant wad. Youll kick the dog if that happens. Keep the decal pulled taut as the backing comes off.

6. Now while still holding the decal, spray that mofo down real good with your spray stuff. Cannot be too wet. If its dripping wet its good.

7. If car needs sprayed again real quick, spray it.

8. With buddy, slap decal on the car where you want it. Put it on the car as close as you think you can as you put it on. It will have some give and play once on the car, but the closer you can get it right as you slap it on, the better.

9. Now with it on there and wet, tweak it as needed to get it where you need it. Take a tape measure or something and just doublecheck that everything is plumb, not running downhill, or caddywompus. Youll be able to move it a round a bit while its wet. If you are off by more than an inch, you didnt take your time getting it on there pretty close when you initially put it on.

10. Now take a plastic wallpaper spade or similar plastic and start in the middle of the decal and begin working out all the water and air bubbles toward the edges. Keep in mind most wallpaper spades have ONLY ONE SIDE YOU SHOULD USE. The vinyl is pretty tough so you can put *some* elbow grease into it, just dont go totally nuts. A lot of the bubbles will be in the other side backing paper area and you can work those harder. Take your time. It might take you a good 10-15 minutes to work as many out and flatten it as much as you can. When you are about done the decal will be on there with the backing and the backing will look pretty dry because you squeegee'd most of the stuff out.

11. Now begin SLOWLY SLOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOWLY peeling the backing from one side. When you first begin to peel, the end of the decal may want to come with the backing, so get your finger ready to push the vinyl back down on the car. It will stick to the car you just need to get that backing started coming off the car without the decal coming with it. After that the decal will prefer sitting on the car and not the backing as you continue to pull. PULL THE BACKING OFF CLOSE TO THE CAR. In other words, fold the backing over as you peel it off as if you are running your fingers down the car. Dont pull the backing out and away like a lawnmower.

12. Keep pulling slowly. Maybe go one inch every 30 seconds. Use your fingers to keep the decal on the car as Mr Helper Friend helps pull the backing. You can work a lot of the remaining water/air bubbles out from behind the decal with your fingers. Use your thumb or index finger as a makeshift squeegee. I prefer you not use the wallpaper spade as direct contact with the decal may scratch it. Your fingers are much softer.

13. Just keep going slowly. The decal isnt going anywhere. If you hit an air/water bubble behind the vinyl, work it out. 98% of them can be worked out.

14. Keep an eye on the next vinyl stuff you are peeling the backing from. Like on my Cayman S decals, its got a lot of little vinyl pieces so you need to make sure you are ready for them and they dont come away with the backing paper. When you come up on one, once again use your finger behind the backing to make sure it stays on the car as you peel the backing.

15. Do this the whole way. When you get to the humpy area near the vents, the vinyl will stretch enough for you to work it without it ripping. Just take your time. As long as you put it on straight to begin with you be fine. Its actually pretty easy to get any remaining bubbles outta the bigger vinyl pieces there because its more vinyl to work with. But, most will already be out. Just keeping working the bubbles to the edges so they go away.

16. When you finally have the backing entirely off, use your hands to finish any remaining bubbles. By this time they will be few and far between. Be patient. Once thats done and youve found a couple that refuse to cooperate, take a needle or exacto knife and poke them and then work them to the edge or flatten. They should be pretty small though. Like no bigger than eraser head size. You need to work bigger ones out with your hands. The prick approach is for the tiny stubborn ones.

17. Use an exacto knife to cut the vinyl at the door seams. Cut them straight and fold into the seams.

When you are through, admire and do the other side.

You can put these on dry, but doing it wet adds a huge margin for error.

Took me about 60 minutes a side. Im sure some pro can do a side in 5 minutes, but I was pretty meticulous in my approach and my results looked far better than the pro's handiwork I saw at an event weeks prior.
 
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