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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After installing the ATP:2 the car is experiencing some issues that are described below, feel free to speak if any have any suggestion as to what they might be, a link or reference or the solutions ;)

An inconsistent CEL light from time to time, it shows in the cluster (with the "visit workshop" message) but there is no code stored when tested with Durametrics (even when tested with the CEL light on, Durametrics reports no stored codes in the engine module), the same or probably the next day this CEL light is automatically off

This might be related to a misfire that is detected with the Durametric logger, only when the car is in idle, it reports some misfire in some of the cylinders, not all the time and not all of them at the same time but on most of them, different cilynders at different times, the idle is correct and suddenly it varies 20 to 50 rpms and this is where it reports some misfire that is auto cleared soon after this (is this normal?)

Some have reported that their idle rpms are solid as a rock, some reports that the idle rpms varies a little (can be seen on the cluster), mine varies, but this has been since the first day, not sure if this is an issue that must be investigated further

The other issue is that when flooring there is some form of "lag", at first the
rpm's start to climb rapidly, but there are some "spots" were it simply hang off (as if the engine is held off) for a while and I have to raise the pedal and start to press it with a continuous motion, increasing the throttle slowly, and the rpms then start to climb as normal

Similarly when the pedal is floored, and you change gear, the engine hangs off when the clutch is released with the new gear, it doesn't continues to accelerate, you either have to floor it again or depress the pedal and start to apply throttle slowly

It seems that there are not any possible leaks and the car is running strong (other that the issues mentioned), probably not what i expected from that amount of HP, as the butt dyno tells me that it probably will not be faster than a corevette C51 (that from other posts it seems that it should)

The car has been garaged since the installation and was used and tested only for a week after that, but this December I will return to the country and I will continue working on it to solve them (can't sleep most nights thinking on what the possible causes are)
 

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hey zmroadster,
noticed your post as i just completed my tpc atp2 install a few weeks back.

re idle: mine's solid as a rock. never shifts or varies. in addition, i have this feeling that the motor fires up quicker when turning the key than it did before it had the turbo. but that maybe due to the new battery i recently put in shortly after the turbo install.

re your other issue: not sure what you mean by "hang off". are you saying that power delivery subsides and only resumes when you lift the throttle and re-assert it? i haven't felt anything like that.

in any event, tom at TPC has been extremely helpful with sorting out any issues i had after my install, even issues which were strictly speaking not TPCs (such as a wiring harness hookup mistake i made). so i'd encourage you to use their excellent tech support if you haven't already. i can't say enough good things about the quality & speed of support the TPC folks gave me.

finally, re "butt dyno" it is true that the power delivery, while immense, is continual and thus may not feel as massive as you might expect after reading some of the more enthusiastic descriptions here by others. but i think that's a deceiving feeling - the smooth delivery and continual build of the power can get you into trouble as i find that i'm often going quicker than i thought i was. i sense it most when getting ready to enter a turn and getting on the brakes - suddenly i realize how much more breaking action i need to haul the beast back down to proper entry speeds. so be careful!

good luck,
-aw1.
 

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Yea, give us a call at the shop on monday 9-5 (-5gmt) Would love to help with any issues. Did you do the install yourself or did a shop do the install? What part of the world are you located in? I dont recognize your SN

EDIT: Drop us an email to [email protected] and we can get a dialog going for a fix.

Casey
 

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Hi ZM,

Yes my car did have Idle issue. It sounds Very similar to what you are describing.

We JUST found the solution this week.


1. We where using adatives in the car and the spark plugs where oxidized ( rusted! ). so do not do that!

2. When I put on the coil packs, one was not all the way touching and the spark plug was firing twice.... this was the cause of my problems. the car runs smooth as silk now that we replaced the spark plugs and remounted the coil packs. I would take it to a Porsche dealer and have them change them ( or check the ciol packs ) because what you are descirbing is exactly what can happen if they are not in place correctly: the cell light, the missfire, and rough idleing...

Let me know how that goes!
 

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ZM with your durametric go into engine and then information tab forward me the s/w version lets make sure you have a known eu version others are having no issue with as well do ck plugs and coil packs
as well when the car is cold does it idle up and do you hear the smog pump then after 20 sec. the idle drops and the car is in closed loop is your car in closed loop as well if you can email short term as werll as long term trim
Regards



After installing the ATP:2 the car is experiencing some issues that are described below, feel free to speak if any have any suggestion as to what they might be, a link or reference or the solutions ;)

An inconsistent CEL light from time to time, it shows in the cluster (with the "visit workshop" message) but there is no code stored when tested with Durametrics (even when tested with the CEL light on, Durametrics reports no stored codes in the engine module), the same or probably the next day this CEL light is automatically off

This might be related to a misfire that is detected with the Durametric logger, only when the car is in idle, it reports some misfire in some of the cylinders, not all the time and not all of them at the same time but on most of them, different cilynders at different times, the idle is correct and suddenly it varies 20 to 50 rpms and this is where it reports some misfire that is auto cleared soon after this (is this normal?)

Some have reported that their idle rpms are solid as a rock, some reports that the idle rpms varies a little (can be seen on the cluster), mine varies, but this has been since the first day, not sure if this is an issue that must be investigated further

The other issue is that when flooring there is some form of "lag", at first the
rpm's start to climb rapidly, but there are some "spots" were it simply hang off (as if the engine is held off) for a while and I have to raise the pedal and start to press it with a continuous motion, increasing the throttle slowly, and the rpms then start to climb as normal

Similarly when the pedal is floored, and you change gear, the engine hangs off when the clutch is released with the new gear, it doesn't continues to accelerate, you either have to floor it again or depress the pedal and start to apply throttle slowly

It seems that there are not any possible leaks and the car is running strong (other that the issues mentioned), probably not what i expected from that amount of HP, as the butt dyno tells me that it probably will not be faster than a corevette C51 (that from other posts it seems that it should)

The car has been garaged since the installation and was used and tested only for a week after that, but this December I will return to the country and I will continue working on it to solve them (can't sleep most nights thinking on what the possible causes are)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
What a pack of great answers, just what is expected of TCP and CaymanClub guys ;)

aw1:

Yes, after going to the next gear and pressing the throttle, the rpms are not climbing (or they are just climb at a very slow pace), you need to lift the pedal and start to press gradually or simple lift the pedal and re apply throttle, after this the acceleration is correct

To me this seems to indicate that maybe a hose is collapsed under high load (the moment the clutch is starting to engage with the new gear on and some throttle)

Casey:

Yes, probably I should have started the initial post expressing my gratitude with TCP in general and with Tom and Mike, they are very helpful guys and have provided excellent support in any questions that i have sent them

Tom have asked my to send an rpm, load, and ignition logging for the TCP guys to review and try to identify the issue, I will send this first thing we I return to the country next month

FrankinCayman:

The sparkplugs where changed with the new GT3 plugs that TCP have provided (free of charge, what a nice guys, can't recommend them enough), during these I have reviewed the coils and they looked to be fine

caymanturboman:

When the car is cold, the sound of the smog pump(?) can be clearly identified and after 20 secs the idle drops, not sure how I can test if the car is in closed loop, will have to plug the ODB-II reader to see if its displayed there (it seems I remember some reference there when reading the sensor values), anyway as soon as I get to the car, I will log the short and long term trim values and send to you

The rough idle issue:
From other threads it seems that it might be the flywheel (hope its not) or the MAF (have cleaned several times already)

Next is to replace the main intake air hose (the hose with metal rings from the airbox to the turbo) as I have the feeling that it might have holes or cuts as the installation of this was one of the hardest parts overall (these and the plastic manifold un-assemble step)

Note: I'm very grateful for your help, these is the kind of things that make a great community to become and excellent place
 

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Where are you located, and what octane fuel are you running in the car? Have you tried clearing the CEL with a generic OBDII scanner? Be sure to update your version of the Durametric software as I've had problems with earlier versions not doing what it should with CELs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Im located in SouthAmerica, Argentina to be exact

The crappy gas we have here, its claimed to have 92 octanes, but from common knowledge its supposed to have 89 octanes at most

The car was notably better when using octane booster additives (from Cyclo if I remember correctly, claimed to increase octane effect up to 3 numbers or 30 points)

I think I will need the ECU mapping for 91 octanes that TCP has, will ask TOM for this when I return to the country

I have tried to clear the CEL with the Durametrics only (the latest version at the time, downloaded on August), will test with the OBD-II later, its a good idea
 

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I had a similar problem with a phantom cel when I was running the 93 tune with our ca91 fuel. A generic obd2 scanner was able to clear it up but my durametric didn't see a damn thing. After I cleared it twice, it never came back.

The 91 tune will probably take care of all your issues assuming there's no hardware installation problems. Please keep us all posted. Feel free to pm me if there's anything I can do to help.

Good luck!
 

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Another few things to add:

1. i've heard of problems with octane boosters that may contribute to damaged injectors. our California 91 octane is likely just as bad as yours... the 91 octane will probably do wonders for you. If you've messed with octane boosters a whole bunch, i'd check your injectors...

2. You can check to see if your MAF is the culprit by unplugging it and letting it idle. According to [email protected], the car has default values in place even if the MAF is unplugged. If your car idles perfectly after unplugging it, you may want to consider cleaning it with MAF cleaner. i had a very, VERY minor rumble at idle, which only comes when letting the car sit idle after driving. cleaning my MAF sensor(light spray, air dry, repeat 4-5 times) seems to have resolved this issue. did it last night so i will continue to keep an eye out on it.

3. if you have bigger idling/misfiring issues, check for air leaks in the system, bad MAF sensor and improperly installed ignition coils/plugs. In good sense, I'd just go through your install top to bottom and make sure everything is installed correctly. Your software should be IDENtICAL to my 91 tune at idle, so if you're having idling problems, it's probably hardware. Other than cleaning the MAF sensor last night, I didn't have any issues with hardware.

4. the durametric was sort of hit or miss for me. it did some things well, and other things not so much. When i first got the car up and running, during high revs(close to redline), a CEL would come on, with visit workshop text, and no code stored. Durametric didn't see anything, but a generic OBDII scanner was able to reset it. It came up twice total, and never did again after the second time it was cleared. Haven't had this problem with the new tune.
 

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ZMRoadster,
1) can you sum up please all what you did to resolve the issues?
2) how is overall outcome now in terms of power and drivability?
 

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Im located in SouthAmerica, Argentina to be exact

The crappy gas we have here, its claimed to have 92 octanes, but from common knowledge its supposed to have 89 octanes at most

The car was notably better when using octane booster additives (from Cyclo if I remember correctly, claimed to increase octane effect up to 3 numbers or 30 points)

I think I will need the ECU mapping for 91 octanes that TCP has, will ask TOM for this when I return to the country

I have tried to clear the CEL with the Durametrics only (the latest version at the time, downloaded on August), will test with the OBD-II later, its a good idea
Eeek. with gas like that then boosting an already high compression motor would make me very uncomfortable. I would install a visual knock indicator and alc injection kit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
sorry for not updating in a long time, but basically the car has been garaged for the past year and a half because of these issues. I have asked TPC for the 91 octane tune but they were not very responsive about providing it, so currently it is a 16k miles Cayman S sitting at the garage somewhere

I revised the installation several times but there were not anything obvious as to what the cause for the issues are

As said previously, the only thing that seemed to make a difference was the octane booster added to the gas

This turbo experience has not been great to say the least
 

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zmRoadster,

When and how was the last time that you tried to contact us? We do not have any information with your logs. Which email address did you send it to? I am very sorry that you have had these problems, we always reply in a timely fashion. Please contact us directly for the quickest response at 410-799-7223 and email us at [email protected] and we will be more than happy to assist you.

For general purposes for technical questions, please contact TPC Racing directly for the quickest response.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Harris,

Thanks, I really appreciate your post

I was in contact with Tom (Chan?) back in the day (he handled my order if I remember correctly) and a few emails with Mike

I hope to start looking for the solution of my CS turbo issues soon again. I will send you guys en email soon

While reviewing some videos of Cayman TPC turbos last night for a hint on the issues, I was wondering why in none of them there is this rattlesnake like sound (from the wastegate I suppose) that my car makes on any acceleration, under load (gear, moving) or not (stand still acceleration). When the rpm's are at 4k the sound of zzzzz-zzzzzz-zzz-zzz-zz-z it is very audible

At first it seemed that it was because the cars in the videos seemed to have the upgraded electronic boost control (gready) but then I found a video of the first TPC CS turbo (the red one with the big static wing) and that car didn't make that sound either when mike was accelerating it really hard

I know that the wastegate, as being spring based and without any other filtering support (as the electronc boost control or any selenoids), the wave based pattern should do this sound, but why on my car is really audible and not in any of the videos, and when you accelerate (past 4k rpm) and stop, this rattlesnake air sound result of the valve open-close action lasts 3 to 4 seconds or sometimes a little more, do this sounds (pun intended ;) ) normal?

As to when was the last time that I contacted TPC about this, well it was around August 2009 if remembering correctly. The installation is very straightforward so I contacted you only when it was really necessary and to avoid taking much of your time. What i meant about not being very responsive, is when I asked for the 91 octane tune, Tom and Mike forgot (or avoided?) any response related to that and instead replied with everything but that (in the couple of times that i asked for this ecu tune)
 

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the wastegate spring "boingboingboing" kind of an UFO sound is very audible in my boxster DFI TPC mod but only when laying off the gas and not whilst accelaration - just FYI

all the best with locating your mod's issue - thank god mine works like a charm now tested for about 1,500km
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
At what rpm's you notice the wastegate sound? Mine is around 3.8 to 4k

But mine doesn't make a "boing boing" sound, its clearly a zhzhz-zhzhz-zhzh very similar to a rattlesnake sound

I will post a video soon with the wastegate sound so TPC can identify if its the normal wastegate sound
 

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I am sorry that you had unanswered questions. Please do not hesitate to call and email us as we would like to resolve any problems that you are having with your kit.
 
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