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I would like to install 7mm and 14mm spacers on my 2009 Cayman. I have 18" Cayman S wheels. I went to FVD.us site and I searched by the year of my car and I get no results for 14mm spacers. Did anything change from 2008 to 2009 that would not allow me to use spacers that were designated for 2008? For 2008 model year they have a boat load of options.

Also, does it make a difference if you get spacers with longer bolts or the ones that first bolt on to the hub, thus allowing to re-use your original bolts?

Thanks
 

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I would like to install 7mm and 14mm spacers on my 2009 Cayman. I have 18" Cayman S wheels. I went to FVD.us site and I searched by the year of my car and I get no results for 14mm spacers. Did anything change from 2008 to 2009 that would not allow me to use spacers that were designated for 2008? For 2008 model year they have a boat load of options.

Also, does it make a difference if you get spacers with longer bolts or the ones that first bolt on to the hub, thus allowing to re-use your original bolts?

Thanks
Check out my post on FVD 15mm spacers:
http://www.planet-9.com/porsche-tires-wheels/40200-15mm-spacers-installed.html

The bolt patterns and the factory offset for the wheels are unchanged from '08 to '09. Thus, you will be able to use 15mm spacers on your car without issues. With the 15mm spacers, FVD's set came with new, longer bolts, and they just bolt right up. Only thing you "loose" will be wheel locks. Personally, I don't like wheel locks... they just get into the way or they break, etc - just more trouble to me than they're worth.

This reminds me, I need to stop @ FVD to pick up a set of 5 or 7mm for the fronts.
 

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I highly recommend the ECS spacer kits in 8mm and 14mm. I have them installed on my 2009 with the SII wheels. They fit perfectly without any vibration and are very high quality. Both kits include the bolts and stainless steel screws to secure them to the hub. The 8mm also has a hub extension to facilitate front wheel mounting unlike many of the smaller spacers on the market. They only come in black but this is not noticeable when mounted. They significantly improve the appearance of the car without looking too dramatic. They work perfectly when mounted correctly. IMG_3355.jpg IMG_3351.jpg IMG_3352.jpg
 

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Without additonal camber, you could use 10mm f and 18mm r without rubbing. As far as looking "too"dramatic, the only thing missing is not being flush with the wheelwell looking from either the offset front or offset rear down the side of the car.

DSC_0057.jpg DSC_0006.jpg
 

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Rehashing this....

Do you have to get a realignment after adding spacers?

Also, is this more for aesthetics or does the wider track really help with road holding? What's the minimum added width for this to come into play?

On stock 18s on my 987.2, what's the max that should be added? Any guidelines? Any difference for PASM and non-PASM cars?

What are the CONs of adding spacers?

Thanks.
 

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Rehashing this....

Do you have to get a realignment after adding spacers?

Also, is this more for aesthetics or does the wider track really help with road holding? What's the minimum added width for this to come into play?

On stock 18s on my 987.2, what's the max that should be added? Any guidelines? Any difference for PASM and non-PASM cars?

What are the CONs of adding spacers?

Thanks.
You don't need an alignment after adding spacers. There is a slight advantage in handling with a wider track, it is slightly noticeable if you are really in tune with your car.
The only con is the added rotational mass, figure about 1 lb per corner.
 

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You don't need an alignment after adding spacers. There is a slight advantage in handling with a wider track, it is slightly noticeable if you are really in tune with your car.
The only con is the added rotational mass, figure about 1 lb per corner.
for 7mm spacers, do I need to get longer screws or will the stock screws and bolts work?

For the 14MM rear, I can find the kits with the screws and bolts, can;t seem to find the full kit for 7mm fronts.

Thanks.
 

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for 7mm spacers, do I need to get longer screws or will the stock screws and bolts work?

For the 14MM rear, I can find the kits with the screws and bolts, can;t seem to find the full kit for 7mm fronts.

Thanks.
Here's what I did. Bought 7mm and 15mm spacers from Amazon. Also got 40mm extended lug bolts for front and 45mm for rear. Pretty impressed with quality for only $120 for a full setup.


Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

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Here's what I did. Bought 7mm and 15mm spacers from Amazon. Also got 40mm extended lug bolts for front and 45mm for rear. Pretty impressed with quality for only $120 for a full setup.


Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Thanks for the info Bougie.

Dumb question... this affects safety and performance.. better to go with a known brand like H&R?

On Amazon there's a brand ECCPP that sells spacers and lugs... seems so cheap, makes you questions quality? Likely china made which I'm not averse to just becuase its made in china..



They don't have the 7mm in silver though but I guess it cant be seen...

Have you tried yours at speed? Not even the slightest tremble?

Thanks.
 

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Thanks for the info Bougie.

Dumb question... this affects safety and performance.. better to go with a known brand like H&R?

On Amazon there's a brand ECCPP that sells spacers and lugs... seems so cheap, makes you questions quality? Likely china made which I'm not averse to just becuase its made in china..



They don't have the 7mm in silver though but I guess it cant be seen...

Have you tried yours at speed? Not even the slightest tremble?

Thanks.
No vibrations or anything out of the ordinary. The craftsmanship looks good and they are all hubcentric. I understand ECS makes good products but not seeing a point in paying 2-3x for the same results. Most important part from a safety standpoint is to have the correct lug bolt length which I now do.

I can't speak for ECCP. I would buy the exact ones I listed in the picture.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

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Obviously 7 & 14 mm is a well known solution on 987. Yes you need longer lug bolts. Longer bolts should be included with any quality set of spacers. Lug bolts aren’t something to buy from a no-name online source selling no-name Chinese bits. Besides, fark those peddlers and their questionable sources. Buy a set from a site vendor and you’ll know what you’re getting. It’s been done a million times.
 

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7 & 14 are conservative in offsets, they do not get the tires to the flush look of the wheel wells. If you have camber of at least 1.5f and 1.8r, you can add more aggressive spacers of 15f and 18r. These spacers will help you reduce the weight transfer across the car. The only drawback is the spring rate and shock compression/rebound with OEM wheels and tires. If you want to push the wheels and tires out, you need light weight wheels to offset the mechanical torque on the shocks. This is where coilovers with high spring rates and shock valving to manage the additional track width from the spacers.
 

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7 & 14 are conservative in offsets, they do not get the tires to the flush look of the wheel wells. If you have camber of at least 1.5f and 1.8r, you can add more aggressive spacers of 15f and 18r. These spacers will help you reduce the weight transfer across the car. The only drawback is the spring rate and shock compression/rebound with OEM wheels and tires. If you want to push the wheels and tires out, you need light weight wheels to offset the mechanical torque on the shocks. This is where coilovers with high spring rates and shock valving to manage the additional track width from the spacers.
I'm not sure what my camber is.. that said, I'm lowering with Bilstein B8 and R springs now. What's camber should I go with on the lowered setup or just leave it to the alignment guys?

For spacers, I don;t want to go too wide, its just a looks thing for me. I did read about the compression/rebound/mechanical torque stuff you mentioned but I don;t quite understand all of that. Given its more looks and not track performance for me, I think I'll go with 7/14 or at most 8/15 which is what many here who have gone with spacers seem to be running as well.
 

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Obviously 7 & 14 mm is a well known solution on 987. Yes you need longer lug bolts. Longer bolts should be included with any quality set of spacers. Lug bolts aren’t something to buy from a no-name online source selling no-name Chinese bits. Besides, fark those peddlers and their questionable sources. Buy a set from a site vendor and you’ll know what you’re getting. It’s been done a million times.
Hi Arch,

Have taken note of your comments on no-name stuff... I think I'll be going with H&R spacer kits not now but soon.
 

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You can order -1.4f and -1.8r camber without adding either camber plates or adjustable LCA's. This camber will help you with canyon driving keeping your outside rubber square to the road surface while cornering. Usually, with 0 toe in front and toe in 10 minutes in the rear, you will have little inside shoulder wear.
 

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You can order -1.4f and -1.8r camber without adding either camber plates or adjustable LCA's. This camber will help you with canyon driving keeping your outside rubber square to the road surface while cornering. Usually, with 0 toe in front and toe in 10 minutes in the rear, you will have little inside shoulder wear.
Thanks. So I just tell my guy -1.4 for front and -1.8 for rear. That said, I do city straight highway driving 90% of the time.
 

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From your messages, I believe that you are a little more aggressive than most, not a bad trait, but just wanting to get the most out of your car. So, with a tire tread gauge or coin, measure the inside tread ribs and out side ribs. Put that measurement away for about 6 months, then remeasure both on all 4 wheels. You might find that you are wearing the inside a little more. If thats the case, have you tires rotated on the wheels. My tire place charges $95. for remounting and balancing. You might be less or more. The good part of this is the rebalance. I find my tires do need this after a while, either because of wheel weights falling off or just uneven wear.
 

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From your messages, I believe that you are a little more aggressive than most, not a bad trait, but just wanting to get the most out of your car. So, with a tire tread gauge or coin, measure the inside tread ribs and out side ribs. Put that measurement away for about 6 months, then remeasure both on all 4 wheels. You might find that you are wearing the inside a little more. If thats the case, have you tires rotated on the wheels. My tire place charges $95. for remounting and balancing. You might be less or more. The good part of this is the rebalance. I find my tires do need this after a while, either because of wheel weights falling off or just uneven wear.
My tire shop is great.. free rotation and rebalancing with nitro as long as you bought the tires from them.... I rotate every 10000km if not sooner.
 
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