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by: PG-IN

Description: First off, let me say a big thanks to Suncoast Porsche Parts for putting together this awesome kit. It comes with literally everything you need, including a lot of new hardware you'll remove. The price has to be FAR less than buying it all separately. The only thing I would have added would be more zip ties. Other than that, it was perfect! So big thanks to them!
So, installing the Porsche Sport Exhaust on the 981 Cayman is really not that hard, including adding the button to the console, but you do have to be a little adventurous. The disassembly goes a little further than just getting to the air filters or the top of the engine, but just by a little. If you are patient, have a few tools and have a little mechanical ability, you guys can do this. I'm not gonna go completely through the steps of removing trim in the rear because Voyager6 has made a really nice "how to" on that. You can get his PDF HERE.
The Suncoast PDF can be gotten from Suncoast directly and I won't post a link due to copyright. It is pretty thorough with exception of specific tools and sizes, so hopefully this will help with that as well as other hands on things I ran into.
Before you begin, be sure and use your head when doing work where the car is off the ground and you are partially under the car! Just use common sense and be safe! Don't risk anyones life! If it seems wrong, don't do it! And don't cut corners.

Remove and install the silencers
To start off, jack up the car using the center-rear jacking point to give access to both side jack points and place a jack-stand at each.
Remove the rear wheels for easy access to the nuts at the catalytic convertors. Remove (2) nuts at each cat flange with a 13mm socket, your choice of combinations of tools to get to them.

Loosen the nuts on the exhaust tip with a 15mm socket and swivel it down to gain access to the upper pipe clamp nuts, and loosen them with a 13mm.
Remove the clamps at either side of the silencers that hold it to the mount with a 10mm socket or the equivalent inverted torx. A 6 point 10mm works just fine. Slide the upper connecting tube between the silencers and the exhaust tip to the drivers side silencer. Remove the lowest (3) bolts on the cross mount where it connects to the transmission with a 14mm.
Remove the passenger side silencer, then remove the other drivers side. Reverse the removal to install the new PSE, and I chose to leave the car up since I had to get back under later to run the vacuum line to the rear.

Run the wire from the rear electronics control unit to the rear panel
Start by removing the interior trim required to get to the air filters, and the engine cover. Again, Voyager6 has a great write up on this and it's what I used to remove most of the interior trim required to run the PSE wire. Props to V6 for a great write up.
You will need a set of interior trim removal tools, I found a great set of 5 at AutoZone for about $10. These will make your life much easier and safer on the trim. The PSE install instructions were given to me by Suncoast but most of the trim removal references Porsche Service Manuals that are not attainable, even through the pay for time service manual site. Well, they are, I spent about $20 downloading PDFs but none of the pictures download so they were pretty useless. And the pages can get in to a huge circular reference that gets very confusingwithout the full service manual.
The Suncoast instructions will get you there, just read carefully and you can get through without the Porsche Service Manual documents. The trim parts removal that were not included in Voyager6's write up will be up next. I will from here on refer to it as the "V6 write up"
Remove the driver seat
Remove the seat rail trim by lightly pulling up the tab to release the trim and exposing (2) inverted torx bolts in front and (2) at the rear (no trim on the rear). Remove with a 6 point 10mm socket or equivalent size inverted torx, then tilting back and removing the yellow electrical connection. The connector has a dark colored end that will disconnect the harness when you pull/slide it. Remove the seat.
Remove the seat belt strap guide at the top (near your shoulder height) and the door sill trunk switch panel and the lower side panel below the seat belt. Remove the foam behind the panel and using a M10 triple square bit, remove the cheese head bolt anchoring the seat belt to the floor.
Once you have removed the slide top side cubby from the drivers side in the previous V6 write up, reach in and pull out the cubby liner and foam insulation that cradles the cubby liner. You should end up with this.
Note: You will want the remove the connectors from the speaker/cubby top and re- connect them as the rear electrics are fed through here and the hatch, should it be closed, will not be re-open till you do.
Once all the trim is removed in the rear, the side cubby liner and foam are removed we can start to run the wire. Pull back the floor carpet under the previously removed drivers seat to find the rear-end electronics control unit. Remove the center connector by pressing the locking mechanism. Once it is out of the control unit, press the release for the grey side of the plug and slide it out a little. Insert the supplied wire with the appropriate contact in to socket A2, then slide the grey part back in till it locks.
Note: Make sure you hear a click when inserting into the pin connector of the new wire.
The wire supplied with the kit is plenty long enough and has been pre-ended so all you have to do is run it, zip tie it and terminate it in the appropriate slot in each connector.
Run the wire along the harness and zip tire it in place so not to chafe but not tight so to be stretched. I put one about every 4-6 inches and followed the harness.
When you get the rear wall you will need to remove the ECU and parking brake control unit from the wall to continue to follow the harness.
Once you reach the passenger side relay carrier remove the three nuts holding it in place and remove the main connector to be able to get to the back side.
Note: Mine was in a different position than the instructions from Suncoast but it's obvious which one it is by their picture.
Remove the other end of the main connector from the relay carrier and push the "T" shaped lock on the connector to release the pin bed. Slide the end of the supplied wire into chamber 5. They are numbered.
Note: Make sure you hear a click when inserting into the pin connector of the new wire.
Because the wire is pre-ended, I just coiled up the remaining wire and attached to the back on the relay carrier and zip tied in place.
Once connected, snap the connector back in the relay carrier, connect the main connector back up and tighten all nuts on the relay carrier, park brake control unit and ECU. Now we will move to the top of the engine and make the connections for the change-over valve.
Note: I will refer you to the Suncoast PDF for the vacuum lines because it is specific to your model of PDK or 6MT and it's very specific on length of Tekalan line.
Install the divertor valve on the top/rear of the passengerside of the intake. remove the bolt and install the supplied divertor valve bracket in this location. The connector for the valve is tied to a harness, just remove the fiber tape, remove teh blank plug and plug in to the divertor valve. Lastly, slide the valve on the new bracket and connect the vacuum lines you determined were for you car from the Suncoast instructions.(see note above)
Once you have all the top end part done, you can reverse the trim instruction and begin to put your car back together. The Suncoast instructions cover running the vacuum lines and honestly, the hardest time I had in the whole project really was getting the clip on the top of the transmission fin that holds the steel flex-pipe in place. The clip is narrow and very high tensioned. Latstly, the Suncoast installation instructions have all the torque values so don't forget to torque things as you go.

Installing the interior button panel
The console is really the easiest part. Start by removing the side panels of the console wit the trim removal tools. They don't to be fully removed. Remove the aluminum look trim around the shifter and the gasket below it. Reach under the switch panel and push up till it pops out. Choose the buttons from the kit you will be using and install the light guides and the button (they are side dependent and will only fit on one side or the other) in the positions they go. Finish by using the blanks on each side in the left-over spots.
Reassemble in reverse and you're done. Get it to the dealer to program the switch panel and that's it.


More...
 

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by: PG-IN

Description: First off, let me say a big thanks to Suncoast Porsche Parts for putting together this awesome kit. It comes with literally everything you need, including a lot of new hardware you'll remove. The price has to be FAR less than buying it all separately. The only thing I would have added would be more zip ties. Other than that, it was perfect! So big thanks to them!
So, installing the Porsche Sport Exhaust on the 981 Cayman is really not that hard, including adding the button to the console, but you do have to be a little adventurous. The disassembly goes a little further than just getting to the air filters or the top of the engine, but just by a little. If you are patient, have a few tools and have a little mechanical ability, you guys can do this. I'm not gonna go completely through the steps of removing trim in the rear because Voyager6 has made a really nice "how to" on that. You can get his PDF HERE.
The Suncoast PDF can be gotten from Suncoast directly and I won't post a link due to copyright. It is pretty thorough with exception of specific tools and sizes, so hopefully this will help with that as well as other hands on things I ran into.
Before you begin, be sure and use your head when doing work where the car is off the ground and you are partially under the car! Just use common sense and be safe! Don't risk anyones life! If it seems wrong, don't do it! And don't cut corners.

Remove and install the silencers
To start off, jack up the car using the center-rear jacking point to give access to both side jack points and place a jack-stand at each.
Remove the rear wheels for easy access to the nuts at the catalytic convertors. Remove (2) nuts at each cat flange with a 13mm socket, your choice of combinations of tools to get to them.

Loosen the nuts on the exhaust tip with a 15mm socket and swivel it down to gain access to the upper pipe clamp nuts, and loosen them with a 13mm.
Remove the clamps at either side of the silencers that hold it to the mount with a 10mm socket or the equivalent inverted torx. A 6 point 10mm works just fine. Slide the upper connecting tube between the silencers and the exhaust tip to the drivers side silencer. Remove the lowest (3) bolts on the cross mount where it connects to the transmission with a 14mm.
Remove the passenger side silencer, then remove the other drivers side. Reverse the removal to install the new PSE, and I chose to leave the car up since I had to get back under later to run the vacuum line to the rear.

Run the wire from the rear electronics control unit to the rear panel
Start by removing the interior trim required to get to the air filters, and the engine cover. Again, Voyager6 has a great write up on this and it's what I used to remove most of the interior trim required to run the PSE wire. Props to V6 for a great write up.
You will need a set of interior trim removal tools, I found a great set of 5 at AutoZone for about $10. These will make your life much easier and safer on the trim. The PSE install instructions were given to me by Suncoast but most of the trim removal references Porsche Service Manuals that are not attainable, even through the pay for time service manual site. Well, they are, I spent about $20 downloading PDFs but none of the pictures download so they were pretty useless. And the pages can get in to a huge circular reference that gets very confusingwithout the full service manual.
The Suncoast instructions will get you there, just read carefully and you can get through without the Porsche Service Manual documents. The trim parts removal that were not included in Voyager6's write up will be up next. I will from here on refer to it as the "V6 write up"
Remove the driver seat
Remove the seat rail trim by lightly pulling up the tab to release the trim and exposing (2) inverted torx bolts in front and (2) at the rear (no trim on the rear). Remove with a 6 point 10mm socket or equivalent size inverted torx, then tilting back and removing the yellow electrical connection. The connector has a dark colored end that will disconnect the harness when you pull/slide it. Remove the seat.
Remove the seat belt strap guide at the top (near your shoulder height) and the door sill trunk switch panel and the lower side panel below the seat belt. Remove the foam behind the panel and using a M10 triple square bit, remove the cheese head bolt anchoring the seat belt to the floor.
Once you have removed the slide top side cubby from the drivers side in the previous V6 write up, reach in and pull out the cubby liner and foam insulation that cradles the cubby liner. You should end up with this.
Note: You will want the remove the connectors from the speaker/cubby top and re- connect them as the rear electrics are fed through here and the hatch, should it be closed, will not be re-open till you do.
Once all the trim is removed in the rear, the side cubby liner and foam are removed we can start to run the wire. Pull back the floor carpet under the previously removed drivers seat to find the rear-end electronics control unit. Remove the center connector by pressing the locking mechanism. Once it is out of the control unit, press the release for the grey side of the plug and slide it out a little. Insert the supplied wire with the appropriate contact in to socket A2, then slide the grey part back in till it locks.
Note: Make sure you hear a click when inserting into the pin connector of the new wire.
The wire supplied with the kit is plenty long enough and has been pre-ended so all you have to do is run it, zip tie it and terminate it in the appropriate slot in each connector.
Run the wire along the harness and zip tire it in place so not to chafe but not tight so to be stretched. I put one about every 4-6 inches and followed the harness.
When you get the rear wall you will need to remove the ECU and parking brake control unit from the wall to continue to follow the harness.
Once you reach the passenger side relay carrier remove the three nuts holding it in place and remove the main connector to be able to get to the back side.
Note: Mine was in a different position than the instructions from Suncoast but it's obvious which one it is by their picture.
Remove the other end of the main connector from the relay carrier and push the "T" shaped lock on the connector to release the pin bed. Slide the end of the supplied wire into chamber 5. They are numbered.
Note: Make sure you hear a click when inserting into the pin connector of the new wire.
Because the wire is pre-ended, I just coiled up the remaining wire and attached to the back on the relay carrier and zip tied in place.
Once connected, snap the connector back in the relay carrier, connect the main connector back up and tighten all nuts on the relay carrier, park brake control unit and ECU. Now we will move to the top of the engine and make the connections for the change-over valve.
Note: I will refer you to the Suncoast PDF for the vacuum lines because it is specific to your model of PDK or 6MT and it's very specific on length of Tekalan line.
Install the divertor valve on the top/rear of the passengerside of the intake. remove the bolt and install the supplied divertor valve bracket in this location. The connector for the valve is tied to a harness, just remove the fiber tape, remove teh blank plug and plug in to the divertor valve. Lastly, slide the valve on the new bracket and connect the vacuum lines you determined were for you car from the Suncoast instructions.(see note above)
Once you have all the top end part done, you can reverse the trim instruction and begin to put your car back together. The Suncoast instructions cover running the vacuum lines and honestly, the hardest time I had in the whole project really was getting the clip on the top of the transmission fin that holds the steel flex-pipe in place. The clip is narrow and very high tensioned. Latstly, the Suncoast installation instructions have all the torque values so don't forget to torque things as you go.

Installing the interior button panel
The console is really the easiest part. Start by removing the side panels of the console wit the trim removal tools. They don't to be fully removed. Remove the aluminum look trim around the shifter and the gasket below it. Reach under the switch panel and push up till it pops out. Choose the buttons from the kit you will be using and install the light guides and the button (they are side dependent and will only fit on one side or the other) in the positions they go. Finish by using the blanks on each side in the left-over spots.
Reassemble in reverse and you're done. Get it to the dealer to program the switch panel and that's it.


More...
Nice write-up. Why don't you create an article, so this information doesn't get lost by being buried inside a thread?

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
 

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Good job :) Typically, what is the installation cost?
To have it done, I don't know. Lots of threads on that and prices all over the place.

I ended up with about $2350 after it was all said and done, programming from the dealer and all.
 

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To have it done, I don't know. Lots of threads on that and prices all over the place.

I ended up with about $2350 after it was all said and done, programming from the dealer and all.
Thanks PG-IN. Called the dealership today. Installation $1300 including programming. Part is $2100+$250 (console switches). Suncoastparts sells the part for $2095 including console switches but shipping is $150. I'm thinking of going with the dealer and add GTS rear diffuser as well. Worth it?
 

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Thanks PG-IN. Called the dealership today. Installation $1300 including programming. Part is $2100+$250 (console switches). Suncoastparts sells the part for $2095 including console switches but shipping is $150. I'm thinking of going with the dealer and add GTS rear diffuser as well. Worth it?
Hmm...I think I may be the wrong person to ask since I didn't want to pay the dealer labor to do it, hence why I did it myself, BUT their parts price is pretty close even adding in the cost of the console module. I only paid $67 for shipping though, but I wasn't on the other side of the country. And programming was only $120 at my dealer. It's really up to you if it's "worth" it but I will say, it sounds very very good. :) nudge nudge

Having said all that, if you aren't comfortable or willing to do it yourself, $1300 (at my dealer rate of $120) is just over 10 hours, and not a bad price at all. And it took me every bit of that. So the labor price is not out of bounds.
 

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An indy shop specializing in European cars quoted $885 so went for it. PSE install is something bit much for me. I damage things when I dismantle or put together anything... so leaving this to pros. Hopefully by early next week should have it on my car along with rear diffuser... can't wait.
 

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Yes! And the shop had trouble with switch part (received wrong one) and programming didn't go well. So, they were done only on Friday. man, it is just awesome!!! Fantastic!! I was in autocross today. Just returned couple of hours ago. Lot of compliments! my 3rd one (8 years old). She knows the stock sound. Now she is confused. Daddy, why its loud now!?
 
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