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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Casey, I was looking over TPCs 4 stages of suspension for the CS. What is the max negative camber that can be obtained from your suspension stages? Your stage four suspension does not show GT3 lower control arms, are they not needed to obtain the max negative camber. If you do not recomend them what do you use in their place. It is my understanding that you can not get more than -2 w/o them.

Thanks for the info.
 

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The driver formally known as Torque
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http://www.tpcracing.net/products/987-Stage-4-Suspension/ said:
TPCRacing Stage 4 Suspension System:
TPCRacing Pro Series Adjustable Sway Bars
TPCRacing Pro Series Adjustable Drop Links
TPCRacing Pro Series Adjustable Toe Links
Porsche Motorsport GT3 Front Lower Control Arms (optional)
JRZ High Performance Coilovers
As listed on the TPC website. :cheers:
 

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Casey, I was looking over TPCs 4 stages of suspension for the CS. What is the max negative camber that can be obtained from your suspension stages? Your stage four suspension does not show GT3 lower control arms, are they not needed to obtain the max negative camber. If you do not recomend them what do you use in their place. It is my understanding that you can not get more than -2 w/o them.

Thanks for the info.

Vicks:

Camber plates will do it and so will lowering springs. When you lower a Cayman, it increases the negative camber. I haven't looked at the site, but I'm guessing they use one or a combination of the two.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Casey,If you do not use the GT3 lca what is the max neg camber that can be obtained, since you show it as an option, if I choose not to use them. Looking for -2.5 or more can this be done w/o the GT3 lca's?
 

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The original car as it comes from the factory can get anywhere from -0.8 to -1.2 depending on the specific car. You need camber plates, or gt3 lower control arms to get to -2.5 camber even if you lower your car. With the camber pletes, you bring the top of the strut in, with the lower control arms you add shimms and bring the lower part of the knuckle out. If you do it right you can gain about an inch (1") of additional track. Be prepared to purchase shimms (-1.0 needs 10mm/side). I am not saying one is better than the other; I am providing information.

Good luck, and let us know what you decide.
 

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I am just unsure as to why you need such extreme camber in the front? Are you running stock springs? Camber is a result of ride height... So i can understand if you are running softer springs. Please let me know what your goals are as well.
 

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I am just unsure as to why you need such extreme camber in the front? Are you running stock springs? Camber is a result of ride height... So i can understand if you are running softer springs. Please let me know what your goals are as well.


+1 on what Casey says above. I'm a long time track instructor new to Caymans last year. I have quite a few mods on my car. I had a student last weekend with a Cayman...Identical tires and no engine mods except for longevity things. He also had TPC sway bars and links with stock PASM. His car was on rails and mine was absolutely tippy and tricky to handle by comparison. These guys know what they're doing. I'm ordering a setup for myself very soon.


Camber much above maybe 2.2 starts to really affect your braking and acceleration because the tires aren't flat on the ground anymore.

Ask me how I know! I only did it once. It was very strange indeed on an M3, but the trade off for bad braking was that you didn't have to do it much because the car was on rails...almost boring. Lap times were slower because it was so easy to break the rear loose on acceleration and you had to be conservative braking for turns because the fronts wouldn't bite very well.

Also...If you're driving the car to the track with a lot of negative camber, make sure your toe-in is set at ZERO. Otherwise, the insides of your tires will be gone by the time you arrive...seriously...300 miles on extreme camber with some toe will destroy tires quick.
 

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My camber settings were at -1.2 w/ PSS9s and I had poor tire wear. It took LCAs and -2.1 to get even wear up front. I mainly run at Barber Motorsports which is full of curves and not very long straights.
 

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My camber settings were at -1.2 w/ PSS9s and I had poor tire wear. It took LCAs and -2.1 to get even wear up front. I mainly run at Barber Motorsports which is full of curves and not very long straights.
That jibes with what I've experienced and have been hearing from others. Mine's at -2 front and -1.8 rear; zero toe. I just leave it there because I want minimal fussing with the car at the track. Wear is decent with NT-01s and I drive it on the street like that too. Street tires are wearing very well. I'm thinking of trying 2.2 or so and 2.0 in the back, but that's the most I'd go for, especially for a mixed use car that's not trailered...but regardless of that, there are trade-offs with really big camber settings. If you can change them around at the track, it's fun to try different things. I could stick a washer in the bottoms of my struts in front and change my front camber pretty radically. With GT3 arms, you can just stick a shim in. You can move camber plates too, just make sure you have zero toe when you drive home.

I have a friend who has his M3 aligned with his camber plates full negative and caster full positive...and he uses a LOT of negative camber and positive caster...his track setting, and then just moves the camber positive and caster negative to drive home. The street setting is the unknown and the wicked track setting is the aligned setting.

He has another car to drive daily. This works for him. If the camber is set light, the toe is not so critical. It may handle funny with the wrong toe, but it won't wreck the tires.
 

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for our AX/Street car we have -3 front -2.5 rear 2mm our front and 4 mm in rear ( combined with both wheels )

With most race tires I have found they want 22.2 to 3 camber to have even wear. Hoosier recommends as close to -3 static camber as you can get to get even tire ware.

We do not really care much about the street tires, but we do want the track tires to last as long as we can. There are gt3 guys with similar setup as this for AX that are getting well over 100 runs out of a set of tires without filing the tires!

It feels like it if on rails a little, But TPC did such a great job at getting the car hooked up the way we wanted it that it handles like a dream at the AX course now!

I am Sure as stated above, I am SURE it would be a handful on the track with this camber!
 
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