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Hi all, this is my first post.

I recently bought my second Porsche, an '05 Boxster S with about 95,000 miles on the clock. My first was a base '07 Boxster. The car is so far, so very good. Except...

The front end gets a little squirrelly once the speed gets north of 70 mph. Not terrible, but it's enough to require 2 hands on the wheel and a vague wallowy feeling going over bumps, especially north of 100 mph (theoretically speaking, of course).

Second-third gear corners are not a problem. Which reminds me, I need a car sick bag for passengers.

I think the main reason for the squirrelly feeling are the front tires, they are Porsche-spec Bridgestone Potenzas but the insides are worn flat. So they need replaced and the alignment looked at (which probably explains the stickiness through corners).

But I'm pretty sure the wallowy sensation is old suspension parts. So I'm also going to get the car refurbed, which leads me to my question...

For street-only (and possibly very occasional autocross) performance, what should I use for refurbing the suspension? I can get an OEM Porsche kit from Pelican Parts, or kit from Elephant Racing in CA. Does anyone have a better idea than either of these? And does anyone know how good Elephant Racing are? Their website indicates they certainly know their chops...
 

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Tires + alignment will probably solve 75% of your issue. For a re-do, I can tell based on you my experience, that the Cayman R retrofit (shocks/springs, mounting hardware) is fantastic. I did it to an '07 Boxster S with 47K miles and think it worked out very well. The suspension lowers the car by about 20mm but the ride is not harsh. It is firmer than stock. My car is a combo street/DE car FWIW. Suncoast is your friend if you go in that direction.
 

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Cantrell Motor Sports, Bellevue, will set you up with Ohlins, Tarett drop links, great corner balance and alignment. The Ohlin Road and Track shock is fantastic compared to OEM. After completing my car a couple of weeks ago, Cantrell had a Cayman R in for much the same work done on mine. That owner used his car as a daily driver along with being a track car for DE events. They installed Ohlins, a rear Tarett sway bar and rear drop links. He had already had a aftermarket front sway bar installed. So, he upgraded to this set up from the R suspension set up.
What this gives you is the ability to dial in the shock response you want for back county roads and then change to track mode if you want. I am very impressed with the response from the alignment and shock package. This tightened up my steering going over old crown roads, then flat with old fill for pot holes. After passing a motor home with boat trailer and a following BMW who was reluctant to pass, I was going about 85 over this road with no wiggle or other input to the steering wheel. Another episode was a M6 BMW took me on, we passed 135, with no shake, or wiggle, then I hit the brakes hard just to see what the back end would do, nothing, straight stopping with a little ABS.
You certainly can get a less expensive parts and labor install, going with H&R, Eibach lowering springs, Koni or Bilstein shocks, H&R coilover shocks and a alignment from Les Schaub tire, but you also will not get the end response from camber, toe, adjustability and setup(mine is a 30mm drop) with just a litttle rake front to rear. Cantrell expert suspension person(Dominic Dilio), knows how to dial in exactly what you want from the car, that is what you are paying for, Les Schwab, not so much.
Your car may have had a front toe out and negative camber alignment for autocross which will give you the inside tire wear. Most likely your rear also will have the about the same issue. Negative camber and some toe in, depending on how much camber they put in. A good shop will give a readout with before and after alignment so you can see the difference on paper and feel the difference on the street. They will make over your car to better than new.
 
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I am in the process of refurbishing the suspension on my Cayman with ~80K miles along with swapping over to Ohlins. I'm replacing all of the control arm/endlink/bushings/tie rod etc - basically anything with rubber in it that can wear out. Went with TRW/Meyle/Lemforder except for the sway bar bushings (OEM), no need to pay the p-car tax and use OEM as long as you choose reputable aftermarket options.
Looking at the the items I removed from the car for sure both inner and outer tie rods needed replacement, especially the inner one. For me symptoms were clunking going into angled parking lots at an angle and a general looseness in the steering wheel though it was not as bad as what you've described. No sure what you're budget is and whether you are going to do it yourself or have a shop do it but I'd definitely start with the front suspension especially the tie rods and go from there. Obviously a set of good quality shocks can have a huge impact as well.
 
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