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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Was swapping pads on my 09 CS and noticed that the passenger-rear part that attaches the sway bar to the suspension is broken - looks like two rods attached by a ball and plastic host for it, the plastic is what tore so the lower arm is dangling.

Can anyone help me identify that part, and is the car driveable enough to take to the dealer or shop?

Also is this an expensive part, unsure of warranty because I have an H&R bar and Cross coilovers. For that matter is this something that could benefit from an upgrade?

Thanks in advance!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Unfortunately had to get the tire back on no camera handy - but this probably helps describe it better, since there is only 1 thing there (on each side):

It is the arm/rod that attaches to the end of the H&R bar - as in the one that would be moved forward or backward on the sway bar attachment point to change the suspension setting.

"Sway bar link"?
 

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You can bet that warrenty claim on this will be rejected.
 

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Sounds like your drop link. Porsche calls it stabilizer mount in 2006 987 the part # is 996 222 792 28 for a Cayman S. You are also going to need the lock nuts if it is missing M12.

I do not know if this parts are same in a 2009 car. Check with your friendly Porsche parts supplier, maybe one of the sponsors like Suncoast Porsche or any other.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks, yes now that I had a name to search by it definitely is a drop link.

Luckily they don't seem expensive or hard to install. Will speak to the shop that did the install (just a few weeks ago) see if they can figure out why it happened.

But seeing it broken makes it look a bit flimsy, maybe an opportunity to upgrade. If anyone can recommend an aftermarket one that would be appreciated.

Seems safe to drive around town in the meantime, no?
 

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Thanks, yes now that I had a name to search by it definitely is a drop link.

Luckily they don't seem expensive or hard to install. Will speak to the shop that did the install (just a few weeks ago) see if they can figure out why it happened.

But seeing it broken makes it look a bit flimsy, maybe an opportunity to upgrade. If anyone can recommend an aftermarket one that would be appreciated.

Seems safe to drive around town in the meantime, no?
Call Ira Ramin at Tarett Engineering - Tarett Engineering - 858.674.5573

He make excellent drop links. Raced them for 2 years with no issues.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Great, did a bit more research last night and decided Tarett was the way to go.

To anyone that has installed drop links on a Cayman: the lower bolt is straightforward but how hard is it to get to the top point of attachment, and is that point shared with the coilover or is it stand alone?

Trying to figure out if I can do this myself.
 

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The top bolt goes through the upright. Its stands alone. The trick is finding a thin wrench to keep the bolt from turning in the plastic ball joint. The after market parts don't use this style of connection and it a simple bolt on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Good to hear. Just ordered the Tarett ones and will give the install a shot myself.

Thanks for everyone's help!

Ralph
 

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Aftermarket all the way.

These have been a weak point on Porsches since the 1970s!
At least sway mounts don't tear out like they used to -
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I just received the Tarett units today. Wow, pretty! <g> Seriously these things look like jewelry - obvious high quality, very well machined and appear strong. Definitely insipre more confidence than the factory bits, will take some pics side by side when I get to install them.

My question is how do I figure out how to adjust their length? Anyone know what the recommended length is for a CS, or if it matters if its attached to an H&R bar? Where do I start?

Thanks in advance!
 

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Overall length is not real critical. I set mine so the end of the swaybar was parallel with the ground when the car was on the ground. Make sure you don't have any preload in either end. In other words, you should be able to bolt up the links without deflecting or forcing the sawybar on either side. Also, orient the rod ends to give maximum rotation of the drop link.
 

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I have a pair of H&Rs on the way which I bought used. Was thinking of only installing the back one and using the least stiff setting at first. I've heard that the H&R bars are much stiffer than stock, so I wanted to add the least amount of stiffness to start out. I'll use my stock rods at first as they'll attract the least attention from the dealer (warranty concerns, etc.). The adjustable racing rods you got sound really nice though.
 

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I have a pair of H&Rs on the way which I bought used. Was thinking of only installing the back one and using the least stiff setting at first.
Gasman,

You should install both bars at the same time to keep the balance (as designed), because whenever you install something at one end of the car it will affect the other end.

The H&R bars are stiff and installing only the rear could snap into oversteer very quickly and may caught you off guard, IMHO..
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ok, finally got some time to work on this.

Attaching a pic of OE vs. Tarett, and would appreciate if someone could confirm that the parts look attached in the correct sequence in the second pic:

Top: bolt in from rear of car towards front, metal "cup" on the rear before the attachment point, only the washer and nut in front of the attachment point.

Bottom (sway bar): similar to above, bolt in from side of car, cup, attachment point, single nut on the other side.

Length seemed best at shortest possible. Two more questions:

* Should there be any play in the rod or should I completely tighten the two nuts at the end of the red rod?

* Should I have used loctite or a specific torque value on the bolts to the attachment points?

Thanks in advance!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Posting this in case it helps the next person doing this project:

Ira from Tarett confirms that it looks from the picture like the bits are installed in the correct order.

Loctite is optional on the bolts to the bar and post, but should not be used on the locking nuts on the rod ends, those should just be snug.

Factory torque is fine.
 
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