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5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello Everyone!

This is my first write up on these forums! Seeing that there aren't any aftermarket headlights available on the market for the 987.2, I decided I would build my own! Below I will post the "Before" and "After" photos along with an entire write up of how I accomplished this. I will also include the link to My Youtube channel where I posted the entire "How to" video on how to make these lights.

Here is the link to my YouTube channel with the full build

Here are the Before and After pictures.



"After" These are also a switch back meaning that the white Halo turns amber and flashes when the turn signal is engaged, and then back to white when the turn signal is disengaged.

Write up:

DISCLAIMER I am not responsible for any damages if you try this and ruin your headlights. I am just sharing this because I wish someone could have shown me. I went into this knowing there were risks and was fully confident in my ability to take on this project.


Wire Stripers :
Philips head screw driver:
Flat head screw driver:
Ratchet Wrench with a T20 Security bit:
Soldering Iron (or electrical crimps):
Dremel (or other Cutting tool):
Extra 16g or 20g wire:
Heat Shrink: Lighter:
Plastic Welder:


80mm Diode Dynamic Switchback LED Halo - $100

Porsche Headlight Connector (so you can de-pin and use to re-pin your headlight) - $25.89

Load Resistors - $10

Blackout shroud vinyl (optional) - $65

Spray paint (optional) - $8

TOTAL PRICE - $208.89 Give or take


: Remove your headlights. ( If you need help removing your headlights a quick search on these forums should be able to help you out!)

STEP 2: Remove the rubber weather strip surrounding the headlight.

STEP 3: This is where things get a little scary, but I promise its not that bad. You need to separate the headlight lens from the housing, and to do that you need to CUT open the headlight. This is where you'll use your Dremel to cut around the headlight flange separating the lens from the housing. NOTE be very carful and do not stick your tool too far into the headlight, as you could potentially hit something on the inside. Take your time here.

This is the Dremel I used.


I like to cut underneath the flange just to make sure that I don't cut into the lens.


Once you successfully cut off the lens, it should look a little something like this. (If you made it this far, this is the scariest part)

STEP 4: Remove the main bezel and the projector bezel. To remove the main bezel there are three T20 Security bolts around the headlight housing that need to be removed. (Listed below)


Bolt 1


Bolt 2


Bolt 3 (nothing special to it.)

After you remove all three bolts you should be able to remove the main bezel easily.

To remove the projector bezel you'll need to go in from the back of the housing. Do so by removing the four Philips head bolts and undoing the two clips to release the back casing of the housing.


Here are all four bolts along with the two clips.

(See Continued)

5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
(continued Pt. 2)

After you release the back housing you'll see the ballast. This also needs to be removed. Do so by removing the three bolts holding the Ballast in place.

3 bolts needed to remove the ballast

Once these three bolts are removed the ballast should hang freely. This will give you access to the two bolts needed to remove the front bezel over the main projector.


Two bolts that hold the projector bezel in place.


Projector bezel removed.

With the main bezel and projector bezel removed you can now paint them any modify them as you see fit.

STEP 5: Now that the bezels have been removed, its time to start working on the electrical installation of the LED Halo

Basic breakdown of the Diode Dynamic Switchback halo. Inside the box you will receive a pair of 80mm halos, a pair of LED Switch back drivers, and extra cables. The main focus right now is getting the LED Driver the proper power supply it needs for the DRL(daytime running light) feature and the turn signal. The LED Driver has three main features 50% power DRL, 100% DRL, and turn signal. Each feature has its own separate designated wire. 100% power DRL is RED, 50% power DRL is WHITE, and the turn signal is YELLOW. This information is important because you need to know what you a pulling power from to engage the proper feature on the Halo.

With all that being said for this install we are using the 100% power DRL and the Turn signal functions of the Halo, so we are going to disregard the WHITE wire on the LED Driver.

First let's find a power source for the turn signal to connect to the LED Driver. To do so cut off the turn signal inside of the head light.


Turn signal removed

After the turn signal is cut off, remove the connector on the side of the headlight and snake the wires out of the side. This will help you trace the wires back to their corresponding pin on the connector. Once you find out what number they correspond to you can then refer to the headlight diagram to identify which wire is which.

Link to diagram


Bolt on the side of the connector is also a T20 security bit.


Connector removed and wires pulled of the side. (TIP: undo all of the tape holding all the wires together. This makes separating the wires significantly easier.)


Turn signal identified and wrapped with Yellow electrical tape.

After identifying the power and ground for the turn signal, its time to install the resistor and connect the ground and turn signal to the LED Driver.


This is the resistor. It needs to intercept both the Ground and the Power for the turn signal. The resistor doesn't need to be installed a specific way as long as it intercepts the Ground and the Power for the turn signal.


Here is how the Resistor should be installed. Hope that makes more sense.

(See Continued)

5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
(Continued PT.3)

Once the turn signal power, ground, and Resistor have been installed. Now it is time to add a pin to the stock connector for the DRL. ( This is why you buy the stock cayman headlight connector. Use the new stock connector for the extra pins. Take a male pin from the new harness)

Take a male pin and connect it to the RED wire for the 100% power for the DRL

This is what it should look like after you add the male pin to the RED wire of the LED Driver.

Once this is done, push the new pin into the open slot on the back side of the connector.

The Front side shot of the open slot before you add the pin.



This is what it should look like after you add the pin, and it also should be space number 9 on the connector.

This brings us to the end of the electrical work inside of the headlight. (you may want to shorten some wires later to make it look more clean, but not a necessity.)

Now that everything is connected in the headlight, hot glue the LED Driver and the Resistor in a spot that will be hidden and out of the way of the PDLS (Porsche Dynamic Light System). It is very important that you don't block the adaptive headlights range of motion. This will immediately throw an error light in the car.


The spot I chose to glue the resistor.


The spot I chose to mount the LED Driver on the Driver side headlight. This dose not block or make contact with the PDLS.

STEP 6: Pulling the Power for the new DRL in the headlight.

Now that we have added an extra male pin to the connector on the headlight, we also need to add a new pin with power for the DRL to the Female connector in the car. ( Again use the extra stock connector that you purchased and pull a Female pin to add to the connector in the car.)

Below indicated by the circle is the empty pin slot that you are going to use for the DRL power. NOTE: Both drive and passenger slots are in different locations. The image below will show the DRIVER side female connector.

Before you can add the new female pin into the female connector you need to remove the rubber seal inside the pin slot. To do this stick a bobby pin, small screw driver, or paper clip though the front of the pin hole to push out the rubber seal from the back side.


This is the small clear rubber seal that's inside the new pin slot that you need to remove.

Once the rubber seal is removed you can add the new pin. NOTE: KEEP the wire to this pin relatively long. around 3 ft long. This way you can route that excess wire down to the fog light to pull power for the DRL.

Here is what the female connector should look like once its installed.

After successfully installing the female pin into the connector route the excess wire as you please down to the fog light.
To get access behind the fog light we will need to remove the fog light.

First start by removing the plastic shroud housing the fog light. There is nothing special to it, its just held in by clips. Give it a good pull and it should come right off.

This is the shroud removed.

(See Continued)

5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
(Continued Pt. 4)

Once the shroud is removed, it will give you access to the two Philips head screws holding in the fog light.

Bolt 1


Bolt 2

After you remove these two bolts the Fog light it should come out very easily.
When you pull out the fog light there will be a clip on the back. That clip will have two wires, a YELLOW wire and a BROWN wire. The YELLOW wire is the power wire we want to intercept to pull power for the halo DRL feature. Cut back the black shielding to give you more room to work with the wires. Connect the wire for the new Female pin to the YELLOW wire of the fog light.


The back side of the fog light with the connector containing the BROWN and YELLOW wires.


The new Female Pin wire needs to intercept the YELLOW wire of the Fog light.


This is what it should look like after soldering the New Female pin wire to the YELLOW wire of the fog light.

After this is completed, electrical tape them back together and plug the connector back into the fog light.

After reconnecting the plug back into the fog light you will have successfully completed all the wiring needed to power the HALO. If everything is done correctly now its time to test.

STEP 7: Testing the halos DRL and the Turn signal features.

If you have followed all the steps successfully at this point you need to test the all of the Features to ensure they are working properly before mounting the Halo.

Plug in the headlight housing in to the headlight slot and test the lights.


The DRL feature working properly.


The Turn Signal function working properly.

STEP 8: Now that the lights have been tested and are working properly, it's time to start reassembling the light and permanently mounting the Halo.

At this point the bezels should have been painted or modified to your liking and should be ready to reinstall.

First take the projector bezel and reinstall it onto the projector. Now you are going to permanently mount the Halo to the Projector Bezel by JB welding it. This is important because the PDLS articulates side to side. If you were to use fishing wire or any other sort of non permanent solution to mount the Halo it will have a high possibility of falling off.

I used clear quick setting JB weld.

Mix the JB weld and apply it with a small popsicle sick or tool of your choice on the back side of the halo. You don't need to use a ton here. Apply only what is needed to ensure that you don't have any oozing out of the sides.


Here is what the Halo looks like permanently installed onto the projector bezel.

After the JB weld fully cures, you're now ready to reassemble the Headlight.

(See Continued)

5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
(Continued Pt. 5)

STEP 9: Now that everything has been installed its time to reassemble the headlight.

At this point assuming you have tucked and cleaned all of your are going to bolt back in the projector ballast, reinstall the rear headlight housing cap, and main headlight bezel.

Once all of the components are reinstalled it's time to plastic weld the head light lens back on.

TIP - before installing the lens back onto the light, do a quick cleaning to remove any dust or potential contaminants that may get stuck inside of the headlight.

If you don't know how to plastic weld here is a link.

Once you've plastic welded the lens back on you have successfully modified your 987.2 headlights!


Final step the headlight back in!

This was my first write up, hopefully it was easy to follow and it helped some of you out!
If you have any questions feel free to DM me on IG



1 Posts
I think they look great! Awesome write up and very detailed, should be really useful for anyone looking to do the same thing.

Also, I like the second shot from the bottom, well composed and good timing getting the plane in it too.
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