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I’ve put about 1200 miles on the Bilsteins with the aftermarket compressor and valve block supplied by the indy specialist.

A chassis warning message popped up a few days ago and I brought it back to the shop.

These 2 error codes were present.

Computer Personal computer Netbook Output device Product


I also noticed I can’t get the car into loading level or high level. It just keeps flashing and doesn’t do anything. Normal or low level is fine.

Thoughts?
 

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I just finished replacing the left rear air bag on my 2011 CTT. When the manual says it's a two-person job, they aren't kidding. Previously, I believed changing the hydraulic pump was tough. This job rivals that but in different ways.
The strange part is trying to get the compressor to kick on afterwards. I followed the procedure outlined, leaving the car supported on the lift and using the level controls to turn on the compressor, with no luck. I then attempted finding some codes. My Carli showed none. Neither did the Durametric. So I borrowed a Snap-On scanner, which also had nothing.
By the way, none of the three showed any way to activate the compressor individually, or at least I didn't find it.
So, I decided to clear all the codes, of which there were just a few unrelated to suspension, and it came up to level. I have no idea why.
I suppose my question is what am I missing using these scanners?
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 · (Edited)
After you install the shock, you start the car and slowly lower the vehicle. The compressor will not turn on until the shock starts to compress.

If I recall correctly, the install of an air shock went like this for me.

Place the car in Jack mode
Compress the shock and get it into place.
Fill the shock with forget how many bar.
Start the vehicle
Can't remember if I take it out of jack mode but I don't think I did that.
Start lowering the vehicle slowly.

As soon as the new shock starts compressing, the compressor kicks on and fills the shock the rest of the way. Al this can be done without a computer of any type.
 

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After you install the shock, you start the car and slowly lower the vehicle. The compressor will not turn on until, the shock starts to compress.

If I recall correctly, the install of an air shock went like this for me.

Place the car in Jack mode
Compress the shock and get it into place.
Fill the shock with forget how many bar.
Start the vehicle
Can't remember if I take it out of jack mode but I don't think I did that.
Start lowering the vehicle slowly.

As soon as the new shock starts compressing, the compressor kicks on and fills the shock the rest of the way. Al this can be done without a computer of any type.
I was never able to acquire the shock adapter to fill the bag, since I was bounced between the local VW dealer and the Snap-On guy with no result.
Somehow, it started on it's own. Seems to be working fine.
 

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After all the trials of air bag replacement and PDCC troubleshooting, I see the right front seems to lose pressure within a day.
It has 90,000 miles, so approaching suggested replacement. Also, one of the dealer parts guys says he sells mostly front units and rarely rears, so I guess that's my fate now.
I will, of course, check for leaks at the pump and air block, but I've resigned to spending some money.
Has anyone found any better deal than the Bilsteins at FCP or Pelican?
 

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Something of an update: I had to put it on the lift to tighten the connections to the PDCC distribution block in the rear.
I put the suspension in service position, raised it and lowered again.
The next day, I notice the front right, which usually loses pressure overnight, is still at ride height. I am so thrilled I have a self-healing air shock!
Does anyone have speculation how this is possible? No, there were no virgin births or anyone walking on water nearby!
 

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New issue.
We haven't driven it for a few days. I noted the right front had dropped, as I'm sure there's a leak, and I'm resigned to replacing the front shock units.
Today, when I opened the door, there was no compressor sound.
I checked the fuses, no problem.
Ran scans on both Carly and Durametric, with neither showing any codes. But the car says "function not possible" when I try to manually lift, and shows the lowered position.
Any ideas?
 

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UPDATE:
After putting the tools away, when I passed the Cayenne again, it seemed like it had raised. So I got in, and all was well--except--it had lost the unit settings for mileage, speed and boost pressure. Everything was metric--except tire pressure.
I would normally think it's a battery issue, but it is only 6 months old, and cranks well. I intend to check the voltage, but would welcome other ideas.
 

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New wrinkle: we took a 1200 mile drive to San Antonio. About 900 in, the fun "chassis failure" warning appeared. During the entire visit over about 5 days, it came and went. Most of the trip back, it was out. The vehicle maintained level, but was very stiff. Changing to normal or comfort had no effect.
Researching online, I see that battery voltage can be an issue. We were using seat heat front and rear, and when the warning first appeared, the headlights were on as well.
Upon returning home (a miserable snowy and icy last 200 miles I might add,) I put it on the lift. I checked all the level sensors, another problem mentioned, but found all ok.
So today, I took it to the Interstate folks to get a load test. He said it was ok, but a little lower voltage than optimal, suggesting I put it on 5 amps overnight.
I had it on a trickle for about 12 or 16 hours, and now all is well--but for how long? I'll put the heavier charge on it now, and report any changes here later.
 

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Battery charged to 100%, according to the Schumacher charger. We went to dinner, about 6 or 7 miles away. Returning home, we obviously needed lights, and the wife had her seat heat on. One-half mile from home, I get "sport mode no longer available" followed by "chassis system failure." Put it back on the charger, and it's down to 85%. I'm going back to Interstate for a new battery. Any other ideas, Don? The tech said the alternator seemed fine.
 
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