[red_stapler]

I doubt shims will do much, other than make fitting new race pads that much harder.

The idea is the same as the ceramic part of the two piece pistons found on a GT3 or similar big-boy Porsche. Casual measurements with an IR gun suggest that my calipers are running cooler than before I added them, but I'll admit there are a bunch of other variables since I'm running a different pad compound this year.

Also find a shop with PIWIS and ask them to configure your car for Ceramic brakes, even though you don’t have them. That relaxes some of the ABS logic, and is a mod approved for SPC class PCA racing.

This has me curious, is there any discussion of the differences?

 

[Difool]

No I haven’t been able to find any discussion or documentation threads, other than the rule change thread on Rennlist

It is intended to reduce Ice Mode which can be triggered by the logic in the car detecting more braking than it thinks is possible. The parameters on that logic are relaxed a bit when it believes it has the more capable option, which it will have with stickier tires and track pads. I have no idea whether the parameter only affects ABS or whether it also relaxes PSM.

I’ve done it, and haven’t triggered Ice Mode since. There is one place on the track at Mont Tremblant that often triggers Ice Mode, and I haven’t been back since the settings change. Looking forward to doing so in July.

Also, I’m assuming the OP is boiling fluids, based on description, but sometimes “lost brakes” can be Ice Mode.


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[shustermeister]

You might also look at the front and rear StopTech Kit ~$5500. I have used ST before and been happy and that is my planned upgrade for my 987.2 TT build.

Peter

I just ordered front and rear stoptech kits (ST60 front, ST40 rear, 2 pc slotted aerorotors, stainless lines all around) for <$3500 SHIPPED all in - on clearance from buybrakes.com. Will be putting on my 987.2 in prep for track work. No connection to them, other than just ordered last week. Get 'em while they still have them!

 

[red_stapler]

No I haven’t been able to find any discussion or documentation threads, other than the rule change thread on Rennlist

It is intended to reduce Ice Mode which can be triggered by the logic in the car detecting more braking than it thinks is possible. The parameters on that logic are relaxed a bit when it believes it has the more capable option, which it will have with stickier tires and track pads. I have no idea whether the parameter only affects ABS or whether it also relaxes PSM.

I’ve done it, and haven’t triggered Ice Mode since. There is one place on the track at Mont Tremblant that often triggers Ice Mode, and I haven’t been back since the settings change. Looking forward to doing so in July.

Also, I’m assuming the OP is boiling fluids, based on description, but sometimes “lost brakes” can be Ice Mode.

I appreciate the info. I thankfully haven't encountered ice mode, but that may be attributed to my base model brakes.

 

[BlkGT3]

I just ordered front and rear stoptech kits (ST60 front, ST40 rear, 2 pc slotted aerorotors, stainless lines all around) for <$3500 SHIPPED all in - on clearance from buybrakes.com. Will be putting on my 987.2 in prep for track work. No connection to them, other than just ordered last week. Get 'em while they still have them!

Thanks for the tip. That is a great price. Off to max out the credit card.

Peter

 

[saildoc]

I just checked the website and couldn't find this set-did you have to call them?
Thanks

I just ordered front and rear stoptech kits (ST60 front, ST40 rear, 2 pc slotted aerorotors, stainless lines all around) for <$3500 SHIPPED all in - on clearance from buybrakes.com. Will be putting on my 987.2 in prep for track work. No connection to them, other than just ordered last week. Get 'em while they still have them!

 

[Merakulous]

I just checked the website and couldn't find this set-did you have to call them?
Thanks

You have to look at the Sale/Clearance section to find the cheap priced kits. But first look up the available kits by inputting your year, make, model and find the part number of the kit you want (there are different options for coated/uncoated, slotted/drilled, caliper color, etc.). Then, armed with a kit part number, go find it in the Clearance section. Not all kits are on sale. For example, the red caliper and trophy kits aren't on sale.

 

[saildoc]

Do they make you pay with paypal?
Looks a little fishy to me.

You have to look at the Sale/Clearance section to find the cheap priced kits. But first look up the available kits by inputting your year, make, model and find the part number of the kit you want (there are different options for coated/uncoated, slotted/drilled, caliper color, etc.). Then, armed with a kit part number, go find it in the Clearance section. Not all kits are on sale. For example, the red caliper and trophy kits aren't on sale.

 

[ICNU]

Do they make you pay with paypal?
Looks a little fishy to me.

You have to look at the Sale/Clearance section to find the cheap priced kits. But first look up the available kits by inputting your year, make, model and find the part number of the kit you want (there are different options for coated/uncoated, slotted/drilled, caliper color, etc.). Then, armed with a kit part number, go find it in the Clearance section. Not all kits are on sale. For example, the red caliper and trophy kits aren't on sale.

No scammer would ever “make” anyone pay with PayPal??? That is the last thing they want as PP will refund your money 100% if scammed assuming you paid good and services and not friends and family which has no PP transaction fee or protection as that is only for sending money to friends and family and nothing else.

PP is the safest way to pay for anything and is what I prefer and have used exclusively for years as they don’t expose your CC info during the transaction and have your back if something goes wrong for 6 months after purchase, almost to the point that the buyer always wins even if he shouldn't.

Scammers only want Western Union or some other form of non traceable or reversible payment. They are legit if they accept PayPal

 

[saildoc]

Yeah, in general PP is great. It was weird that I did all the correspondence with the company by text messages and then all I get is a paypal request without specific itemized invoice like I get from other venders. I did finially get an invoice mailed. So the deal was pretty sweet: Front ST60 with slotted rotors and rear ST40 with slotted rotors-calipers in blue. Shipped to me for $3300.

No scammer would ever “make” anyone pay with PayPal??? That is the last thing they want as PP will refund your money 100% if scammed assuming you paid good and services and not friends and family which has no PP transaction fee or protection as that is only for sending money to friends and family and nothing else.

PP is the safest way to pay for anything and is what I prefer and have used exclusively for years as they don’t expose your CC info during the transaction and have your back if something goes wrong for 6 months after purchase, almost to the point that the buyer always wins even if he shouldn't.

Scammers only want Western Union or some other form of non traceable or reversible payment. They are legit if they accept PayPal

 

[ICNU]

Yeah, in general PP is great. It was weird that I did all the correspondence with the company by text messages and then all I get is a paypal request without specific itemized invoice like I get from other venders. I did finially get an invoice mailed. So the deal was pretty sweet: Front ST60 with slotted rotors and rear ST40 with slotted rotors-calipers in blue. Shipped to me for $3300.

No scammer would ever “make” anyone pay with PayPal??? That is the last thing they want as PP will refund your money 100% if scammed assuming you paid good and services and not friends and family which has no PP transaction fee or protection as that is only for sending money to friends and family and nothing else.

PP is the safest way to pay for anything and is what I prefer and have used exclusively for years as they don’t expose your CC info during the transaction and have your back if something goes wrong for 6 months after purchase, almost to the point that the buyer always wins even if he shouldn't.

Scammers only want Western Union or some other form of non traceable or reversible payment. They are legit if they accept PayPal

Great that you got such an awesome deal! I’ve had a few small business guys that offer a product and work out of the home and send PayPal invoices for payment.

I do agree that typically this comes with an invoice showing exactly what you’re paying for, so that was a little strange that they sent the invoice later but the mere fact that they accept PayPal would make me 100% comfortable that they are legit to deal with.

 

[DocCroc]

Most of the fluid related issues people are reporting are due to the caliper pistons being made from aluminum. Since the pistons are a great thermal conductor, the brake fluid sees way more heat than in a system with a phenolic or stainless piston. Adding a thermal break like a stainless or titanium shim is probably enough to fix it - at least, in my case it has been.

For sure this at the heart of the problem. In addition to the aluminum acting as a thermal conductor, it is anodized with a material to prevent corrosion when in contact with the steel caliper. I had been experiencing this exact problem and rebuild the entire system in a step wise fashion. (see post Lost Breaks Watkins) What I found when I tore the calipers apart was the some of this material chipped off the pistons. This defect, although only microns was allowing air to enter the system under extreme (track) conditions. I rebuild the calipers front and rear with new stainless steel pistons and finally solved the problem. If you already upgraded to Stop tech, go ahead and pull the old units apart. I would n't be surprised if you had the same issue

 

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Go all the way with larger rotors and the toughest track pads. Get GiroDiscs as a minimum. Shoot me a note if you need personalized advice and components -