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Discussion Starter #1
I've searched Planet 9 and found a few related threads on this topic but none which address my specific questions.

My 718 CS will see its first track day in two months at VIR (full course). It's been 12 years since I've last attended a car track day and my old track car was a Steeda Mustang which included a big brake upgrade kit (6 piston fronts with all stainless lines). For it, I would change oil before the day if the current oil was long in the current cycle and look change oil soon after the track day. And, depending on the number of track days each year, I flushed and replaced the brake fluid one or twice a year with a high quality DOT4 like a Motul RBF600 full synthetic.

The upcoming HPDE event is a two day event so I'll have at least 8 sessions. I also plan on attending another two day event at VIR this fall. And, that's about it for track days this year. I asked the service tech at the Porsche garage what he thought and read my owners manual (believe it or, but track days are covered in the owners manual). Both the tech and the owners manual said the same thing: Be sure your oil is current (i.e. not overdue for a change), check the oil levels before and after the event, and refill as needed. For brakes, it would be good to simply make sure the fluid levels are good and that the current fluids are no more than a year old.

My Question:

Should I follow the advice of the tech and owners manual and do relatively nothing to the car for the upcoming day? I'd be well within my annual service at the time and would request a brake flush and refill at my annual service (July).

Or, should I go ahead and flush and refill the brake fluid before each of the scheduled track day weekends and look to increase the frequency of my oil changes? I'm thinking I would double up on oil changes this year instead of the one annual change.

BTW.... As for prepping the driver, I'm well aware what I need to do (keep fit, get good sleep, drink and bring plenty of fluids, etc...). Over the last 12 years I've been focused on motorcycle track days and race schools. Just when I thought car track days wore me out, a 2 day weekend with the bike pushed me... wowsers.


Thanks for your time and feedback, I look forward to your replies.
 

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I would change the brake fluid to a high temp fluid. I use Castrol SRF. Flush it at 6 months. I boiled the factory fluid in a 987.2 once- not good.
 

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I would be prepared to do a quick brake fluid flush (I would just enough to flush the calipers not the whole system) while at the track. I haven't tracked my 718 yet but my previous Porsches the issue was more with the stock brake pads getting glazed over and not gripping well after a few sessions. If you can switch out brake pads for the weekend that would be best in my opinion.
 

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Just throwing in my $.02, but while some recommend a brake flush every time out, I do it every other time. I would definitely go with some high temp brake fluid. I track my car 4-5 weekends a year and change the oil after two DE’s. Given your driving experience, you will know after one DE how much heftier braking you need. Have fun!


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As someone who doesn't track, would be interested in what type of speeds and Gs you get the Cayman up to, and how it compares to other cars you have tracked.
 

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(1) how much meat do you have on your brake pads? are they worn, if at or close to the 50% mark replace the pads - you will go through OEM pads quite quickly and may need to consider something like Pagid RSL29.

(2) so long as the brake fluid is new/fresh and assuming you have yet to cook the fluid - simply bleed the brakes, after this event consider moving to another fluid e.g SRF, RP600 or the new king of the hill AP R4 (in terms of dry temp) - keep in mind these types of fluids need to be replaced more often

(3) on the day make sure you bed the brakes in, and remember to do a warm up laps then a FEW (three or four hot laps) followed by 1 or 2 cool down laps (where speed should not be less than 50mph).

(4) Keep in mind these are track capable street cars :)

(5) oil, check and top off if relatively fresh

(6) tire check for wear and tear - if you are running on street tires use manufacturers recommended pressures as per door plate (they need the pressure because of the sidewalls - these are not track tires) - if wet make sure the pressures are towards the upper end of manufacturers recommendation (does not trap water so readily).

(7) spanner check - if you have the time check underneath - particularly struts and brakes - torque wrench lug bolts to 160NM all round (confirm torque in owners manual).

(8) enjoy yourself and drive within yourself :)
 

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R Doug: I'm sure you are going to enjoy tracking the 718 Cayman S at VIR. My son and I participate in 3-4 CHIN events/yr at VIR with our Cayman's and love every minute. Your 718 Cayman S is a very fast car so brake performance should be your focus. My conservative advice is as follows:
1.) Change the oil before the event
2.) Do a brake flush and use Castrol SRF. it's expensive but worth the extra cost
3.) Replace the stock brake pads with Pagid Yellows or similar
4.) Before and after each session monitor your tire pressures. Depending on your driving style you will pick up 5-7 psi during each session. I would recommend not to exceed hot pressures of 39 psi which would suggest a cold temp of 32F/33R
5.) enjoy!
 

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Down load the track event form and see what is required usually:
If you are a new/Green student:
1. depending on club full brake flush within 6 or 12 months. I use Motol 600
2. Brake pads must be at least 50% or more for whole event or you will fail daily tech inspection. Pad equals greater than back plate for whole event
3. Tires no dry rot, ribbing, etc
4. DOT helmet 2015 or 2020 expiry. Forget if VIR allows open face as some tracks prohibited
5. Signed tech form that club mandates within 30 days event (some clubs within 2 weeks of event)
6. Event numbers for doors, front and rear typically 6" that contrasts the car color.
7. At least for me, Oil Change every 20 hours of track time. I set on this number as I use to send my oil out after every other event to Blackstone Oil Analysis in Fort Wayne IN for $25 a sample and the analysis kept coming back no noticeable degradation or impurities until about the 4th to 5th track event. Better option that $250+ oil change every other event when it was not needed.

My photo is turn at Oak Tree. take a look at my VIR video's My youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/c/LarryLanwehr

Have fun.
 

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My Question:

Should I follow the advice of the tech and owners manual and do relatively nothing to the car for the upcoming day? I'd be well within my annual service at the time and would request a brake flush and refill at my annual service (July).

Or, should I go ahead and flush and refill the brake fluid before each of the scheduled track day weekends and look to increase the frequency of my oil changes? I'm thinking I would double up on oil changes this year instead of the one annual change
I always ran with high-temp fluid and stock pads until I hit one short track with a steep downhill section. It wiped out my pads and rotors in a day. Now I run Pagid Yellows. However, in contrast to most people, I find a complete flush at the beginning of the season will last all summer, depending on the number of days. A big year for me is 10-12 days.

Most folks recommend bleeding before each event. I tend to work in terms of pedal firmness. A pedal that starts to go soft calls for a bleed. I've never had a problem with this approach, but I would definitely take a preventive maintenance approach were I hitting the track every weekend as some folks do.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Great feedback so far, I expected nothing less.

Thank you so much.
 

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Pads! Pads! Pads! OEM pads are decent but you should get something more aggressive, but not too aggressive. (The Performance Friction 08s that I use would have too much bite, I think.) Summer tires may squeal a bit but that's normal. Also look at the rotors and see if you have thermal cracks. They'll get only worse after tracking it. By doing "absolutely nothing," I presume you're talking about mods, and I agree with one exception: Tires. If you have something dumb like All Season, get Summer tires, quickly. Don't go all out with, say, Michelin Sport Cup 2s, but there are plenty of tires that will perform better on track. At this point, better tires is not about having more lateral grip and cornering faster; it's about keeping you safe.

I have never been able to get my pad wear sensor to work with track pads and just zip-tied them away, so don't be startled. Your oil should be fresh Mobil 1. Read your insurance policy. My Nationwide policy covers on-track incidents except when "racing, preparing for racing, or participating in a timed event." Track day coverage is terribly expensive, so it's much cheaper to get a new policy that covers you.

If you find yourself with no traffic around you, slow down at curves and practice taking a late apex and powering out of the turn. Eventually that will become second-nature. And when a Spec Miata passes you, don't fret. I once got passed by a Subaru Forester!

Think about your goals. When I was a novice, the focus was on finding the school line first, then making sure that I used the entire width of the track. Next came trying to be smooth on all my inputs. You probably know this but DO NOT BRAKE in a turn/
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
It looks like the first step for me is to get a good set of car stands, wheel chocks, and a low profile jack. Then, I'll pick up a Motive power bleeder (Euro spec), catch bottle, and fluid syringe to get the job done.

Any guesses on how many beers and usage of foul language per job? Actually, bleeding brakes is pretty easy and kind of fun.


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I did 8 events and 15 track days in my 718 Boxster S last year equipped similarly to yours. Primarily PCA and NASA DE events. I did not change brake fluid over the course of the season but will before this year starts. I ran stock pads as no street/track options were available. Used 2 sets. This year EBC has yellows available and I have a set coming. The brakes were 100% consistent event to event with zero fade. I did nothing to the car and drove to/from the tracks. I had a set of 19s for the track and ran Bridgestone RE71R or Nitto NT05 tires. Both 200 wear rated Equal wear, traction and price. My experience is that PTV will wear your rear pads almost 2:1 compared to the fronts. The car is absolutely awesome on track. Fluid changes can never hurt, just not needed in my case.

Thought about Nitto NT01 tires this year. 235 front /285 rear are the only 19s that are close but I'm worried that the over 1" difference in diameter/height front to rear will freak the car out somehow. I need to research and see.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thank you, cimkc. I know the 718S received the larger brakes from the 911 in 2017. I was really hoping to hear from someone with experience on these particular brakes. The local Porsche garage warned me to expect higher rear pad wear with a PTV equipped car. Thanks for the confirmation on what to expect.

I believe I will still flush and refill with Motul 600 before my first event and will monitor pad wear then report back on what I noticed.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Down load the track event form and see what is required usually:
If you are a new/Green student:
1. depending on club full brake flush within 6 or 12 months. I use Motol 600
2. Brake pads must be at least 50% or more for whole event or you will fail daily tech inspection. Pad equals greater than back plate for whole event
3. Tires no dry rot, ribbing, etc
4. DOT helmet 2015 or 2020 expiry. Forget if VIR allows open face as some tracks prohibited
5. Signed tech form that club mandates within 30 days event (some clubs within 2 weeks of event)
6. Event numbers for doors, front and rear typically 6" that contrasts the car color.
7. At least for me, Oil Change every 20 hours of track time. I set on this number as I use to send my oil out after every other event to Blackstone Oil Analysis in Fort Wayne IN for $25 a sample and the analysis kept coming back no noticeable degradation or impurities until about the 4th to 5th track event. Better option that $250+ oil change every other event when it was not needed.

My photo is turn at Oak Tree. take a look at my VIR video's My youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/c/LarryLanwehr

Have fun.

I just caught your youtube channel. I've enjoyed a few videos this evening. What a great collection of tracks you've visited.
 

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Hey guys,
New to the forum. Great thread!
I just bought a 718s and was wondering if anyone has run Re71r's on stock 20s?
TR said the 245/285 combo will fit just fine.
Anyone have any personal experience with that combo?
Thanks,
Martin
 
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