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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello i have a Porsche Cayman R

i have had an custom alignment done before. Too get some better turn in.
So i maxed the front negative camber too -1.0.
and matched the rear camber too the other one which looked too have the best wear. so i went for the -2.1 in the rear.
and i went lower on toe in in the front and rear.

here are the specs how it was from when i bought it and then after my settings



i still have more understeer then i want. especialy on turn in. would it help too lower the rear camber from -2.1 to -1.7?
i would like too have some feedback on this!

i am planning too do 0 toe in front now and also go with less toe in in the rear. 0.03 0.03 so a total of 0.06 toe rear.
or should i go for zero toe in the rear too ?

Greetings
Sebastian
 

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This setup has worked well for me on our '07 CS with PASM.



Todd


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Understeer can be controlled numerous ways. One is tire width, another is tire pressure, etc, etc. There are numerous posts on alignment, under/oversteer. Sorry, but I'm too lazy to search for them.
 

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have you considered the gt3 front lower control arms to get more neg camber in front? I did the mod to address tire wear, but felt the car turned in more quickly also. I have -2 deg front and rear.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
i have read all of them. and it generally says less camber in the rear is less understeer.

and 0 toe in front should be the best. vs. toe in. from my experience
toe out in the front might be a step too far since i also use it for driving on normal roads.

i would like to have some reply's from people with track day experience who tried different setups.
who can really confirm this. don't be leave everything they say on forums ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
have you considered the gt3 front lower control arms to get more neg camber in front? I did the mod to address tire wear, but felt the car turned in more quickly also. I have -2 deg front and rear.
Yes, sounds like an option but doesn't it ruine the wheel geometry ?
 

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most guy here in the track

go neg -2.5 in the front with 0 toe in

and about -2.0 to -2.25 in the rear with 1/32 toe in.. thats 1/16 each side..


Lemon
 

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Yes, sounds like an option but doesn't it ruine the wheel geometry ?
It's a fairly common mod for track and won't cause any problems. In addition to Porsche parts there are aftermarket LCA options. I got the Porsche parts as a kit from Suncoast as it had all the hardware needed. I did need some extra shims to get to neg 2deg. I think neg 2 is a pretty good compromise for a car also driven on the street. My CR is about 50% street miles and 50% track miles and the tire wear is nearly even.
 

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less rear camber = less rear grip = less understeer

the exact correct balance is for you to find.

rear toe has a big effect on car's rotation.
i don't know what are the good settings in DEGR but in mm it should be 1.5-2.0 mm in total.

tires' pressure is also a factor to consider.
you can try to add 3-4 more psi at front to see whether it will move you in a right direction.
it takes few minutes and costs nothing.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
i had it done, here are the results:



i am happy with the results its not an amazing big change but it feels better!, there is less understeer through the whole corner . and feels more neutral.
 

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i had it done, here are the results:



I am happy with the results its not an amazing big change but it feels better!, there is less understeer through the whole corner . and feels more neutral.
I did similar with mine recently. I did elongate the strut mounting slots a bit and got mine to
-1.2 camber front (zero toe)
-1.5 camber rear ( I did not change rear from OEM settings)

This is not an agressive track setting at all but it did free the car up and make it more neutral. I even had to catch a few episodes of oversteer under part throttle at Road Atlanta last weekend. MY front tire wear (Pilot Super Sports) improved and the corners of the tires did not suffer as much as before with only -.5 degrees of camber. The steering does feel a bit different with a bit more feel and tramlining. It felt good. I'm happy with it and wont change it further unless I start tracking this car more seriously on R comps.
 

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"in the rear with 1/32 toe in.. thats 1/16 each side"

Isn't that backwards? You mean 1/32 per side = 1/16 total toe?
 

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Front 2° ist the way to go, works well on street and track. Had 2° on the rear axle, that resulted in a quite snappy behaviour, 1.5° is now getting me much better results, more controllable reactions. Back should be marginal / no toe in, front 2mm.
 

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"in the rear with 1/32 toe in.. thats 1/16 each side"

Isn't that backwards? You mean 1/32 per side = 1/16 total toe?
Exactly Bill. I noticed that too and was going to post but you beat me to it. How Ya been? I went to Mid O In July. Missed you. It was WAY cooler than when we went that time.
 

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A DE buddy gave me the setup sheet done for his 3.8 CS track car by a pro race shop and the toe was specified as: F -1.0 and R 2.5 per side. I'm assuming that is in degrees; is that not a crazy amount of toe? Maybe they meant .01* and .25*?
 

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Those are supposed to be millimeters but that's too many millimeters per side in the rear. A 997 setup would be 2.5mm per side of toe in for the rear but a Cayman with monoball toe links would be closer to 1mm. @Bldn10 - I have Bruce's Cayman GTS and it's getting a bunch of track work in anticipation of the DE at Barber next weekend. Are you going? Just email me and I will give you the holy grail setup. I don't mind sharing this information. I'm not competing with anyone on here, just trying to sort your cars for you!


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A DE buddy gave me the setup sheet done for his 3.8 CS track car by a pro race shop and the toe was specified as: F -1.0 and R 2.5 per side. I'm assuming that is in degrees; is that not a crazy amount of toe? Maybe they meant .01* and .25*?
Specs need units :p If that was -2.5, I'd say they were camber specs, not toe. Also sounds like more of a conservative DE alignment than a performance alignment.

Personally, I like neutral front toe to balance performance with tire life, and a little rear toe-in to help control it during oversteer. A lot of this comes down to preference and application- a car that's tight at autocross can get very loose on the track, and vice versa.
 
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