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I have a '15 981 S I plan to start tracking soon. I may start out on stock wheels and tires (I have 20s) but ultimately will want a more track-focused tire.

I used to race in PCA, so I'm used to race tires. But I'm done dealing with tow vehicles, trailers, etc. So I want to drive to the track on the same tires I will drive on the track. (And in my case the trip from home to track is 200 miles.)

So, with all that being said, is there a track-worthy tire that is good enough on the street to be my only tire? Or should I get dedicated wheel/tire set for track? And if so, is there a track tire that is enough of an improvement on track to warrant having the extra set, while still being able to get me up and down the highway 200 miles?

From what I've read on other threads it sounds like the cup 2 might be a good only-tire choice while the trofeo R might be a good dedicated tire choice. But I worry about driving 2-3 days on track on them then having to get home.

Finally, if I got track wheels, what's the consensus for the best size? 18, 19 or 20?

Thanks for any input!!
 

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I have a '15 981 S I plan to start tracking soon. I may start out on stock wheels and tires (I have 20s) but ultimately will want a more track-focused tire.

I used to race in PCA, so I'm used to race tires. But I'm done dealing with tow vehicles, trailers, etc. So I want to drive to the track on the same tires I will drive on the track. (And in my case the trip from home to track is 200 miles.)

So, with all that being said, is there a track-worthy tire that is good enough on the street to be my only tire? Or should I get dedicated wheel/tire set for track? And if so, is there a track tire that is enough of an improvement on track to warrant having the extra set, while still being able to get me up and down the highway 200 miles?

From what I've read on other threads it sounds like the cup 2 might be a good only-tire choice while the trofeo R might be a good dedicated tire choice. But I worry about driving 2-3 days on track on them then having to get home.

Finally, if I got track wheels, what's the consensus for the best size? 18, 19 or 20?

Thanks for any input!!
what i did was OZ formula HLT 19s and MPSS they are not as sticky as the MPC2 but more durable($3700 tire rack). I also have run R comps on other cars and decided to go for less grip for ware. carl
 

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19" and thats the only size the cup 2 comes in right now. you can go 18' and have the hoosiers. Carl am cheaper hehehehhe.. the cup 2 are not that thick if you see them.. the dept are not like your normal tire. they are good for 3k miles at the most..

Lemon
 

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This is a common dillema and one that I have pondered over many times.

The Cup2 is possibly the best 'all-rounder' as you have said.

A dedicated track tyre such as 888's, etc are ok for getting to and from the track so long as you don't encounter heavy rain/standing water when they become very unpredictable. They are also quite noisy. The increased grip though can be worth the downsides particularly if you live somewhere where it doesn't rain much.

If you decide to get a set of track wheels my money would be on 18's.
 

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If you're a regular at the track and you drive even a little aggressively, then I think dedicated track wheels and tires pay off in the longer term. No matter what tires you use they will get trashed on the track and your wheels will get dusty and baked with OPR. For me it's nice to have a dedicated set that I can drive to- and run on- track without worrying about the wear and tear. I currently run 18's with Nitto NT-01s and I'm happy with that set-up. I may try to Pirelli Trofeo R's next.
 

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If you're a regular at the track and you drive even a little aggressively, then I think dedicated track wheels and tires pay off in the longer term. No matter what tires you use they will get trashed on the track and your wheels will get dusty and baked with OPR. For me it's nice to have a dedicated set that I can drive to- and run on- track without worrying about the wear and tear. I currently run 18's with Nitto NT-01s and I'm happy with that set-up. I may try to Pirelli Trofeo R's next.
+1 on the above, 18" Nitto 01's. Having a dedicated set of track wheels, makes it easier to check the brake pads, rotors, bleed the brakes, and wash the wheels during swapping from street to track wheels, and vice versa.
 

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+1 on the above, 18" Nitto 01's. Having a dedicated set of track wheels, makes it easier to check the brake pads, rotors, bleed the brakes, and wash the wheels during swapping from street to track wheels, and vice versa.
Acro:

+1 on the +1.

I've had a set of Nitto NT-01s for 4 years and they still have some tread. I had them heat cycled when I bought them. If you work them right, they last a long time, longer than most street tires will. I think they're finally heat cycled enough now that I can justify getting a new set. Usually, NT-01s are at their best when the tread is GONE, but these are getting old, so I'll replace this year. I bought a set of Forgestar 18" for them on a P-9 Group Buy a few years ago. They do the job and are sized perfectly. I think 8.5" in front and 10" in back. Not sure of the offsets.

I change my brake fluid and pads and wheels at home, drive to the track (300 miles to one, 200 to another) then change everything back after I get home...usually a day or a week later when I get time.

I have driven home on corded R tires in pelting rain before without incident. The rubber wore down to the cords on my old M3 driver's side rear tire. I heard the cord slapping on the bodywork and came in from my Sunday session. I think it was near the end of the day anyway. I clipped the flappy cords with a pair of scissors, let the tires cool, set them at street pressures and just drove home from Indy to Chicago them. Have done similar on motorcycle trips when tires were showing cord. They don't leak just because you see cord.

Yes, track tires will aquaplane if you run all the tread off them and drive home in the rain.

I would never recommend anyone drive like me....

...I just drive at sane speeds and keep both hands on the wheel when driving in rain with iffy treads. If I hit a puddle, the wheel will tug to one side. If I hold it straight and the car will go straight. I don't overdrive or overthink it and just turn the radio up and think good thoughts. Street driving is a lot easier on tires than track laps, so even an R tire that looks awful will usually get me home. The R compound sticks to the road very well so when the puddle is gone, the tire grabs. So much easier to attend to things at home after a good night's sleep and with my tools and garage near.

FYI...Another thing that will wreck your tires is changing the camber (lowering the car etc) without checking and adjusting toe. When you change camber, the toe changes. If you drive to the track with wicked camber settings, you must have toe near zero or the tire will eat itself up on the interstate. You can have a lot of toe-in and the car will feel really good but you're grinding rubber away with every turn of the tire. 4 wheel alignment is a bargain compared to new tires.

I was told about a Chicago BMW trackster who went down to Putnam park on brand new R tires. They wouldn't let him run because the starter saw cord on the inside edges of his almost new tires. So, brand new R tires and a track weekend ruined because this guy fiddled with his suspension without following up with a proper alignment. ....Don't do that!!!

OK and in fact good to increase negative camber to -2 or so but you must adjust the toe to near zero. I have my front toe out about 1/32 total for the two wheels. I have the rear about 1/16 toe in for the two wheels. It works well no matter how much camber I use, but changing camber will change toe, so last thing you do has to be adjusting the toe. I have this done by a shop with a good Hunter laser alignment system. However you do it, DO IT and do it LAST thing.

Oh...and one time I got all the way up to R/A from Chicago on loose lug bolts. I thought something was wrong with the car....Something was! I stopped for gas and saw one wheel bolt sticking out a little too far... No one saw, but I was really embarrassed. I always bring a torque wrench (sears) and a 6" extension with a wheel-bolt socket, so was able to fix it easily...no damage....after 200+ miles of driving mostly interstate. But WTF!???? Still don't know how I managed to forget one whole wheel...all 5 bolts on but not near tight. 4 turns each???.

Since that happened, I'm super-methodical about buttoning the car back up when I work on it.
 

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vir group b 3 297.jpg I decided to spare my 20's and get a set of track wheels and tires that I could drive to the track on- end result is OZ allggerita's and MPPS. First track coming up March 13 at VIR! Can't wait!!!!!
 

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.....
Oh...and one time I got all the way up to R/A from Chicago on loose lug bolts. I thought something was wrong with the car..... No one saw, but I was really embarrassed. ......
I have good news, you're not the only who has had this happen to him.
 

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I always like getting dedicated track wheels/tires, then you don't have to compromise, you can get good street tires and good track tires.

I went with 19" to get better tire choice, we also autocross and the rules we run under specify 200TW or greater so that's what I go with. There are some very good street tires in 200TW which also work well on track. My personal favorites were Dunlop ZII last year (to be superseded by ZII star specs this year). Bridgestone RE-11 also make good track tires (not the RE-11A). Some people swear by Hankook RS-3v2.

Someone mentioned R888 as a track only tire, I tried them and found them not much different from the ZII (though not on the Porsche). My lap times were only fractions of a second better and they're noisy as hell. (As in oh god whats wrong, are my wheels falling off or are the legion of the damned coming for me.)

The Cup 2 tires sounded like a very good option for street/autocross with the local PCA until specifically nobbled by a rule change.

The OEM tires (we have PZeros) work pretty well on track, but I get the impression they're several seconds a lap slower than the ZII, but have not done a proper comparison.

We went with some custom wheels from CCW as the OZ ones you can get from TireRack don't have the right offset for the rules we run under.
 

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At BMW DE years ago, the instructor group went out on a crisp, Saturday morning. We were usually the first out, so as to allow reconnaissance of the track for the students. Coming up out of turn 3, an M5's left rear wheel came off. You can imagine that there were no other incidents like that for the rest of the weekend.

John
 

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Think 18" or 19" tires--way more selections.

Stock 987.1 , 987.2 or 981 rims will work fine. In 18" sizes I like the 245-275/40/18 combo.
Tires like the RE-11, NT05/NT01 or toyo R888 will work

In 19" 245-275/35/19 will work:
RS-3 hankooks or AD 08R Yokos are available in these sizes and you can drive them on the street or to the track.
 

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I'm very happy w/ 18" O.Z. Alleggerita HLT (8.5" F & 10" R) & Hankook R-S3 (255 F & 285 R) as my track set up.
 

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+1+1+1
i also use the Nitto NT-01 and CCW C-10 18 forged wheels. I drove 300 miles to Roebling Road HPDE in the fall on new Nittos but the noise in the way home gave me a splitting headache. After a few dozen autocrosses and an AX school, the tires were at 4/32". Knowing the tires are now slicks, I decided to use a U-Haul trailer and towed my car to Roebling. I finally killed them at the HPDE this past weekend. After looking at all the choices for replacement, it came down to the Pireli Trofeor R and the Nitto NT-01. I just purchased the Nitto again because the quick wear on the Trofeo R would be too costly for the extra performance gained. I'm not racing, I'm having fun with my car and I can do ore events with the Nittos.
 

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i used to love toyo RA1s they were great on my old lotus. You could take them down to the cord and they never heat cycled out. Wish the came in the cayman sizes. carl
 

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see my signature... I run 18" NT01... They are sticky and great for the track. Unfortunately... they don't last too long. I get maybe 4-5 track days per set.
I live in California.... It doesn't rain in california... NOT. I don't make it a habit of running in the rain so I don't know what its like driving on NT01 in the rain!
 

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I'm very happy w/ 18" O.Z. Alleggerita HLT (8.5" F & 10" R) & Hankook R-S3 (255 F & 285 R) as my track set up.
I use the same wheels with RE-11 tires for track duty. Tires are a good compromise for track and limited street use. Not the very best (good just not best) handling or quickest lap time for DOT compliant tires but wear well and are fairly quiet.
 

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The reason i went 19" is to clear my big brake's kits.. if you go for 18" no big brakes of any kinds.. Including the porsche 991 upgrades..

Lemon
 

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I am also very happy with NT01's on the track. 245/275/40/18 set up.
Good grip, very predictable, good wear, handle the heat well.
I drive them to/from the track. I have not driven them in the rain.


I use only Michelins on the street. Nothing else compares for me.


Using this tire selection for the past several years with great success.
 

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The reason i went 19" is to clear my big brake's kits.. if you go for 18" no big brakes of any kinds.. Including the porsche 991 upgrades..

Lemon
Yep, a big brake kit is a good reason to move to 19s !!
 
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