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Cayman and Boxster 06-12 are close to the same springs/shocks components or you may use the R shocks/springs. After that you have to look at the parts specifically. A way to get you going is to get GT3 lower control arms and lowering springs. Be sure that the shocks are in good shape as they will be asked to work harder in a lower position with stiffer springs. That combo should work for a year or more and give you camber for the race track.

Keep in mind that using a second hand set of springs that were designed for another application does not do you a lot of good was it changes the roll center, weight transfer, rake, and other unique features of the Boxster. So, look for a set of spider take of springs. The single important suspension part I would replace is the OEM thrust puck, its the center bushing in the LCA. I would recommend using the Red Tarett solid thrust puck. This single item keeps your wheels from moving forward and aft almost 3 inches in the rear and a couple of inches in the front. When they move around, they change the toe and camber of your suspension, which makes trail braking, mid corner throttle modulation, turn in on bumpy roads much more of a challenge.

Lastly, a very inexpensive lower suspension part is Pedro's Technobrace, which connect your two side sub frames in the rear. This brace helps prevent threshold braking wiggle, adds to accurate turn in, mid corner throttle response and trail braking.

So, find a takeoff spider springset, red Tarett solid thrust pucks, Pedro's Technobrace and max out the OEM camber with a competition alignment. You should be able to get -1.6f and -2.1r. Toe in front 0 and rear toe in 12 minutes.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Started disassembly of the suspension this past Sunday. Front suspension work was (as expected) about as easy as it gets. Rear was a PITA. Accessing the strut tower bolts wasn't too bad, but I ran into a problem down below. I haven't yet figured out what to disconnect, that will give me enough space clearance for the strut towers to clear the wheel well lips. I think I know which part I need to disconnect to make that work, but this realization was made after 10 hours of work and I didn't own the proper size wrench (18mm). So I stopped for the time being. And Monday was spent drinking at the pool. Labor Day weekend after all :beer:

Analysis of the parts I removed shows that the ball joint for the driver's side LCA is torn. So it would appear that I will need to replace the front LCAs (wouldn't dream of not replacing in pairs). I cannot afford the $1200 cost of GT3 adjustable LCAs. Looks like Elephant Racing's LCAs are a good OEM substitute. Anyone have experience with their products?
 

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Discussion Starter #24
BTW I also noticed that front brake pad wear does not appear to be even. Inside pads on both sides (driver's and passenger's) are worn more than the outside pads. Is that normal? If not, am I looking at a brake caliper rebuild?
 

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Wolfpack987-I have experience with Tarett Cup LCA's, which I rate five stars. Cantrell Motor Sports and I made the decision to go with Tarett Cups over Elephant LCA's due to the idea that shim's for camber on the Tarett Cups would be more solid vs the single large bolt used to extend the length of the arm. Either way, both of these arms have stiffer end joints, although the Cup's have a bigger monoball and bolt on the outboard end. If you are doing this work, you may want go with Elephants arms as the Cups require you to drill out the mounting hole on the uprights, going from a 12 mm to a 14 mm bolt. Cantrell said this work was not hard to do and you get a much larger ball joint on the outer end of the LCA reducing the probability of one that was split on your car). The red thrust bearing is solid, with really aids in turn in and braking in front, braking and mid corner throttle modulations in the rear. The solid thrust puck also provided caster and wheelbase adjustibiltiy. With the Cup arms you can use up to 20 mm of shims to increase your camber -2.0 degrees front and rear. The rest of your negative camber will be with the standard camber adjustments f and r.

I really could not believe the difference these LCA's made in handling, turn in is much more direct and positive in the front, braking very accurate front and rear. With the internal camber shims pushing out the track 20 mm on each wheel (without additional wheelbearing loading), I can use a stiffer Ohlin compression/rebound settings for even more wheel control at the track and daily usage. Its almost like the Cup LCA's and the Ohlins are made for each other, rather than just parts thrown together giving additional synergy to the suspension system.

Just my $.02 on Taret Cup LCA's on a Cayman 07 S.

BCUP.jpg 996-997-adjustable-control-arm-with-caster-puck-large.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
Thanks Apex1, will take all that into consideration!

Anyone have a "preferred" method for removing the rear strut assemblies? I referenced a few DIYs I found online and I'm not able to translate their success into my own. I can't seem to get enough clearance for the strut towers to clear the wheel wells. I really don't want to have to disconnect any ball joints to accomplish this as I worry about tearing them.

Upon re-examination, looks like the only way to remove the strut is to actually disassemble (more or less) the entire rear suspension?
 

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Anyone have a "preferred" method for removing the rear strut assemblies? I referenced a few DIYs I found online and I'm not able to translate their success into my own. I can't seem to get enough clearance for the strut towers to clear the wheel wells. I really don't want to have to disconnect any ball joints to accomplish this as I worry about tearing them.

Upon re-examination, looks like the only way to remove the strut is to actually disassemble (more or less) the entire rear suspension?
I pull the upright with the LCA, toe arm and driveshaft. Takes 20-30 minutes a corner to pull them and doesn't mess with balljoints. Use a sharpy to mark the alignment on the eccentrics. You'll obvioulsy want to align it after but that'll get you to the alignment shop.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Thank you Joshua, that makes perfect sense. Will try that out ASAP!
 

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That's the same approach I used with good success. The only annoying part was getting the LCA wrestled back in place. Be cautious on the driver side. At least on my 987 there's a leveling sensor attached to the arm that needs to be disconnected and avoided.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #30
joshuaj, how in the world do you remove the control arm inner bolt? I got the nut off easily enough, and the bolt will rotate freely (in an eccentric rotation, naturally). However I have no longitudinal play whatsoever. There's not enough clearance on the nut side to tap the bolt with a hammer. How does this come out?

:helpme:
 

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You need to get creative with leverage and/tapping. I think I used a 1" wrench to press it out from the side and may have tapped the wrench with a hammer.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Thanks for quick reply!

I figured out what I did wrong. I let the bolt rotate too much, and it was stuck on the wrong part of the washer (on the nut side). Had to hold the washer down against it's mount with vise grips and then rotate the bolt into it's "key" position so it could slide off.

Already got both of the strut assemblies out. Now I should probably go return these spring compressor tools, as the "48 hour" rental period ended on Monday LOL.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
My supplier for the Bilstein PSS9s, which I ordered 2+ weeks ago, just fell through. After being assured twice that they would have them in stock two days ago (9/5) they just told me they won't have them until 11/15 at the earliest.

:mad::mad::mad:

Suffice to say, since my car is in pieces, I'm somewhat livid at the moment. I'm guessing PSS9s are going to be difficult to get anywhere, so might have to look at another solution. Perhaps KW Variant 3 or these Ohlins everyone is raving about? A bit more than I want to spend (I realize they're an upgrade over the Bilsteins) but since all my bushings are in good condition I don't have to spend any of my budget on those items...
 

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Joshuaj is your guy for Ohlins! Especially if you modify your LCA's with a solid thrust puck and stiffer bushings, the dual flow technology of the Ohlins will give you the damping you need on the track (2-4 clicks from stiff for the track to 15-18 clicks for the street), yet provides a modified ride for the street that keeps the high spring rate in check.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Ohlins are on their way!

I'd like to thank joshuaj for helping me find a great suspension solution.:banana:
 

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Happy to help :D Should have tracking info for you this afternoon!

Ohlins are on their way!

I'd like to thank joshuaj for helping me find a great suspension solution.:banana:
 

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Wolfpack987- Those Tarett solid thrust pucks are extremely important to the final outcome of your suspension upgrade, especially when using the Ohlins. Much better DFV shock and stiffer springs. These solid thrust pucks helps translate that upgrade to turnin, mid corner throttle response and trailbraking. Your wheels can move as much as 2 1/2 inch forward (acceleration rear) aft (braking), front turnin, braking, all of which change your toe and to a lesser extent your camber.

You will thank me later, as you know the rear end is a big hassle and your do not want to repeat this effort anytime soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Thank you Apex1, will take into heavy consideration.
 
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