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Discussion Starter #1
Well something finally gave out in the transmission. Its been making a sound for few months but I wanted to try to wait until spring since this is driveway mechanic work for me. Clutch will not disengage.

Everything is out of the car except the trans now. I had to cut the exhaust to get it out so that will need to be replaced. I had a bad cat code anyway.

I have a few questions:
1. I'd like to get a stock quiet exhaust but with 200 cell cats. I saw FVD's but that is 6k. I just want the stock unit.
2. Some bolts broke and a lot are rusted. Should I go with stainless steel for replacing those nuts and bolts that broke or is there another metal?
 

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Are you sure it's the transmission that broke, and not the clutch? What exactly is happening?

And yes, stainless steel for the bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Not sure what broke so I used the phrase loosely.

I was accelerating at a decent pace and all of sudden could not shift to the next gear. The clutch felt a little lighter. I ended up having to shift without the clutch since it was not disengaging. So it does shift and move but the clutch will not release. When pressing the clutch pedal there is a pop sound and less resistance when that sound is heard.

I want to use the opportunity to put much better parts in as much as possible.
 

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Here are some pressure plate threads - curious if it shifts easy with the engine off. If so probably the pressure plate.

http://www.planet-9.com/987-cayman-...h-pressure-plate-spring-failure-suddenly.html

http://www.planet-9.com/987-cayman-...s/104525-cayman-s-6spd-wont-go-into-gear.html

That noise you described is concerning. Maybe it's a loose bolt bouncing around in the bell housing? Or it could be a bearing dying.

All conjecture, but good to know there's no metal in the transmission oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Jeff.

I recently put a magnetic drain plug in the trans to hopefully catch anything.

I've been reading about clutches and so far I see Sachs and Spec. Lots of Spec on Pelican Parts. I want an upgrade but the car is a daily driver so I don't want something that is not suited for that. At this point I am just information gathering but will have to decide this weekend.

I'll post some photos of the damage once I get the trans out.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I am thinking of replacing the rusted header bolts before they get any worse. Just get stainless steel or are those special?
 

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I would bet it is the pressure plate. Probably broke off one or more of the spring fingers.

And yes, just use some 8mm stainless steel bolts/nuts for the exhaust.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
bought a hydraulic table and some ratchet straps. Waiting on those to get here before pulling the rest of the bolts. Just been tooooooooo cold...
 

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Sorry about your misfortune - funny thing I called the Carnewal US distributor today (Cantrell Motorsports (425) 820-0231) and talked with Justin about the reworked 987 exhaust. For $650 plus shipping they'll send you back a decatted muffler system. He said sound is sporty, impressive, and no drone. You should call him - all other options are triple the price just for the mufflers, add 200 cel headers and you're up to $5k pretty quick. Good luck, let us know what you decide.

Jeff

Well something finally gave out in the transmission. Its been making a sound for few months but I wanted to try to wait until spring since this is driveway mechanic work for me. Clutch will not disengage.

Everything is out of the car except the trans now. I had to cut the exhaust to get it out so that will need to be replaced. I had a bad cat code anyway.

I have a few questions:
1. I'd like to get a stock quiet exhaust but with 200 cell cats. I saw FVD's but that is 6k. I just want the stock unit.
2. Some bolts broke and a lot are rusted. Should I go with stainless steel for replacing those nuts and bolts that broke or is there another metal?
 

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Well something finally gave out in the transmission. Its been making a sound for few months but I wanted to try to wait until spring since this is driveway mechanic work for me. Clutch will not disengage.

Everything is out of the car except the trans now. I had to cut the exhaust to get it out so that will need to be replaced. I had a bad cat code anyway.

I have a few questions:
1. I'd like to get a stock quiet exhaust but with 200 cell cats. I saw FVD's but that is 6k. I just want the stock unit.
2. Some bolts broke and a lot are rusted. Should I go with stainless steel for replacing those nuts and bolts that broke or is there another metal?
Where did you cut the exhaust? It's very common for the header exhaust flange bolts to rust beyond removal (3 per header). I can't tell you how many of these things I've personally had to break off then drive out and replace. There are various ways to drive them out. I've heard of folks using C clamps, I've used a torch to heat them, then a punch and hammer or air chisel to pop them out once glowing. Like racergreg said, replace them with some 8mm x 25mm stainless steel hardware, but use never seize to prevent the like metals from galling.

On that cat code, how many miles do you have on your car? It's pretty uncommon for those cats to become ineffective with anything less than 150,000 miles. It's more likely that the O2 sensors have gotten ineffective. That's an easy one to diagnose, if you're good with a wrench. First write down which cat has reported the error, bank 1 (right) or bank 2 (left). Then take the O2 sensors from the right (bank 1) and move them to the left (bank 2), move the left sensors to the right. Clear the CEL code and wait for it to come back. If the "bad cat" code returns but on the other side, then you need O2 sensors. If it returns to the same side as before, then you likely do have a cat problem. The catalytic converters are in the headers.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
88k on the car. I am taking the manifolds off for two reasons. 1. I want to replace the rusting bolts on them since they do come off and 2. I dont want to damage the flange that connects the two halves of the exhaust system.

I cut the exhaust here: See photo. exhaust.JPG

I've tried getting the O2 sensors off in the past. They seem impossible to turn - just turn harder? Will PB Blaster damage the sensor?
 

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88k on the car. I am taking the manifolds off for two reasons. 1. I want to replace the rusting bolts on them since they do come off and 2. I dont want to damage the flange that connects the two halves of the exhaust system.

I cut the exhaust here: See photo. View attachment 56061

I've tried getting the O2 sensors off in the past. They seem impossible to turn - just turn harder? Will PB Blaster damage the sensor?

Too much PB Blaster can damage a sensor (if it gets into it). Those sensors can be very hard to get out, and if you force them it's likely you will damage the threads. If it were me, I'd try first shooting around their base with some PB blaster and letting it soak in. Then I'd use an O2 sensor socket and impact gun to see if I could break them loose. If they won't break loose, don't force them. Instead heat the base up with a torch and then try. Heat will often loosen them up.
 

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Discussion Starter #16

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Discussion Starter #18
Finally! I got the trans out. There was a lot of resistance moving the fork and the throwout bearing just popped right off. There is quite a wear groove ring in the bearing. I have no idea if any of this is related to the problems. I will be taking the clutch out later. IMG_0141.JPG IMG_0142.JPG IMG_0143.JPG
 

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Your clamping surfaces look pretty crappy, which is weird because the clutch disk looks like it has some life left in it.

I would replace it all, including the flywheel. Not cheap, but no use doing a halfway job when you already have everything apart. You'll love the feel when it's done!
 
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