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It'd be nice to see an OA on our cars with that oil. The consensus over BITOG is it's crappier than it used to be, as expected. There's nothing 'European' about it anymore; just your typical Group-III oil now. Remember reading there it now is like a 30+ weight, rather than the advertised 40. Guess that's why many of us are having the dreaded 'rapid ticking', which seems to be directly related to the oil. Two folks with the disturbing 'banging' noise said it went away with M1 15/50, so no other explanation for the lack of that noise than oil quality. Or more specifically, not the right viscosity. I already bought the 2 0/40 jugs for next oil change, but could put it in my brother's BGTS. I think 50 is a bit much, but it's listed as an approved viscosity in the manual, so will think about it when the time comes, which is in a couple of months. Hopefully we can review a few OA from our cars, since DI is a lot harder (and dirtier) on oil than cars with port injection. Plus it also tells us how good the PCV works. I'm only interested in OA from 981s as well, so OP, this was the right place to post;).
 

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That is where I am at too. Was thinking about Pennzoil 0W40 European formula but there again I would like to see a UOA first. Hopefully someone will post one soon. Thanks
 

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I have a different opinion of the 0W-40. IF you get the Euro formula, NOT the M, the UOA's that I saw were okay. I wouldn't run the oil longer than 1 year or 10K but if you aren't driving your car hard all the time, the Mobil 1 0W-40 EURO formula is still a decent oil. The best? That question will be much more difficult to answer. I like Amsoil but the Mobil 1 is cheaper and much easier to get. I am running the Mobil 1 Euro formula 0W-40.
 

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Just a comment that I switched from M1 0W40 Euro to M1 5W50 with my last oil change last week.

0W40 UOA (two done) was showing the viscosity was dropping below spec so decided to use a thicker oil given where I live.

It'll be sometime before my 0W50 UOA is done but will post it when ready.


Eddie
 

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Just a comment that I switched from M1 0W40 Euro to M1 5W50 with my last oil change last week.

0W40 UOA (two done) was showing the viscosity was dropping below spec so decided to use a thicker oil given where I live.

It'll be sometime before my 0W50 UOA is done but will post it when ready.


Eddie
What was your oil change interval and what kind of driving style?
 

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Guys, I want to just raise this issue about ELP_JC's post above. I'm not trying to pick on him at all, but I don't want to see misinformation from what is likely a typo.

It is Mobil1 5W-50 stated in our manuals, NOT 15W-50!

I just bought two cases of 5-50 for my 5k interval in 800 miles. Will see how it goes.
 

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I am running the Mobil 1 Euro formula 0W-40.
Are you? Check your jug and if it has the small letters 'FS' about an inch above the letters 'ula' (at the end of European Formula), it's not the same oil as before. That's the whole point of this thread. The formulation changed for the worse (group IV to III). It used to be a very good oil. If you had some left over jugs, of course it'd show great on an OA. We're talking about the new crap;).

0W40 UOA (two done) was showing the viscosity was dropping below spec so decided to use a thicker oil given where I live.
Please post how many miles on the oil both times. And also driving style. I live in a similar climate, and will consider a change, since my car has the rapid ticking (although not the more disturbing banging others have, but don't want it to turn into that). Thanks man.

I want to just raise this issue about ELP_JC's post above. It is Mobil1 5W-50 stated in our manuals, NOT 15W-50!
Thanks for clarifying that. A typo indeed. Manual page 202: 0/40, 5/40, and 5/50. Since only M1 15/50 is available locally, put that from muscle memory. Sorry about that. I'd probably try a group IV 5/40 first, but still debating that. Want to read more;).
 

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0W40 UOA (two done) was showing the viscosity was dropping below spec so decided to use a thicker oil given where I live.
Whilst I don't think thicker oil is a bad idea, I'm pretty sure that a drop in viscosity over time is kept in mind by Porsche in their specifications and service interval. I personally wouldn't be worried driving on an oil that has degraded down to 30, oil pressure is easily maintained by our fancy oil pumps and that is what matters most. Obviously, if your engine is making annoying sounds and thicker oil helps, then it makes a lot of sense. I'd still rather change the 0w40 more often than going to a thicker oil and losing some horsepower in the process.
 

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I'd still rather change the 0w40 more often than going to a thicker oil and losing some horsepower in the process.
I agree with you, but more than the reduction in HP, I like even less what causes it: the added friction and heat. That's why some of us are curious about the OCI above. Yes, there's a viscosity degradation expected, but when you're starting with 30+ rather than 40, you can be below spec at the end of the OCI. I typically put only 5K on my toy cars, which would be perfectly acceptable, I think. But more than that would be iffy. I'm monitoring the noise on my car to see if it increases as miles pile up. The noise is there since I changed the oil, and so far have about 4K miles, and no change. Plan to make a trip to CO and UT, so I'll probably put close to my 7,500 limit on that oil on this car before changing it in Sep.
 

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Here's my UOA for those that had questions or are curious. Only one DE (April 2016) plus some spirited driving at times in my three years and 30,000 miles of ownership.

The Viscosity values (under Physical Tests) are just low by a hair and the lab tech said it is nothing to worry about. I also spoke with a local indy shop (well regarded and honest as the day is long) and they echoed those sentiments and suggested the switch to M1 5W50 due to our climate.

My Cayman runs like a million bucks so I'm not going to sweat this, but I am a bit surprised the Viscosity value is low with so few miles between changes.



Eddie
 

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Are you? Check your jug and if it has the small letters 'FS' about an inch above the letters 'ula' (at the end of European Formula), it's not the same oil as before. That's the whole point of this thread. The formulation changed for the worse (group IV to III). It used to be a very good oil. If you had some left over jugs, of course it'd show great on an OA. We're talking about the new crap;).
Drat, went to my Walmart which is usually not up to date but all they had was the FS. Pretty sure the last time I bought it was the good stuff. I opted to buy the new FS since I don't do DE's anymore and rarely put on more than 2500 miles a year. I should be okay. Thanks for the heads up on the FS.
 

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Here's my UOA for those that had questions or are curious. Only one DE (April 2016) plus some spirited driving at times in my three years and 30,000 miles of ownership.
This is mine with Mobil-1 5W-50 after 17k KMs on the car and 13k KMs on the oil. Notice that the 5W-50 after 13K has better viscocity than the factory oil after only 4K. Unless I'm reading it wrong... ;) Driving would be very similar between the changes.

Hope this helps the discussion.

Text Font
 

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but I am a bit surprised the Viscosity value is low with so few miles between changes.
Just saw your UOA, and it's quite obvious your last 2 rounds were with the 'FS' version. That's more or less when it came out. It used to be great, as evidenced by the other previous results. What irks me is the deceit, leaving 'European Formula' when it just wasn't true. Now I feel compelled to spend my money on a different oil brand, even if more expensive.
 

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Thanks for mentioning this ELP_JC. It never occurred to me I might be using the "FS" oil since I only looked for M1 0W40 Euro. The questionable jugs are long gone but I will check my remaining stock (31 qts.) and see what it is.

I sorta hope you are right (as an explanation for the lower viscosity), but I had almost 50 qts. of 0W40 (most 2-3 years old) since I got some smokin' deals due to rebates and sales. My per quart cost was maybe a $1.50-ish so it pains me to spend $6/qt. for 5W50. :) And that's on sale and it's harder to find.


Eddie

Just saw your UOA, and it's quite obvious your last 2 rounds were with the 'FS' version. That's more or less when it came out. It used to be great, as evidenced by the other previous results. What irks me is the deceit, leaving 'European Formula' when it just wasn't true. Now I feel compelled to spend my money on a different oil brand, even if more expensive.
 

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Just saw your UOA, and it's quite obvious your last 2 rounds were with the 'FS' version. That's more or less when it came out. It used to be great, as evidenced by the other previous results. What irks me is the deceit, leaving 'European Formula' when it just wasn't true. Now I feel compelled to spend my money on a different oil brand, even if more expensive.
I wouldn't toss out Mobil1 for trying to make the best of their marketing. Ultimately modern EPA type restrictions are responsible for both our fuel and oil problems. It's funny they do it to everything and everyone to the point where it might be causing our high strung engines to run poorly (which is bad for the environment too), yet our oils make up a few percent of the actual market. Typical case of blind politics.

Fact of the matter is our relatively light weight and small statured sports cars are much better for the environment than all the 4 cylinder turbo SUVs running around. At least when we're not flooring it. :D

Edited: quoted wrong post
 
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