I was about to say that Porsche 'should' have made allowance for such a situation, no not floods but failed motors, which allowed some ease of seat removal, but I guess in the end, if you have to cut some piece of replaceable metal that in itself is an acceptable process as it won't happen that often...Remember the seat base was under water and some things are rusted and/or the motors may have corrosion.
4 bolts in the rails holds the seat to the chassis (two per side, two front, two rear). The issue is that the seat has to be moved all the way forward and backward to get to the bolts. If the forward/backward motor is dead, then you get in my situation. In my case, the seats were back far enough to get the front bolts out. I was able to 'fix' the driver's seat via lube, pounding to unfreeze stuck pats, and luck, I guess. But the passenger's seat so far has not responded to the same persuasion.
The seats have front and rear lift motors (tilt is a combination of differences in the two heights. On the passenger's seat, the front lift motor was stuck, but I got it working and raised enough to get the motor drive connector off the power seat control module. However, the rear lift motor is dead as is the fore/aft motor.
There are four arms that raise each end, two per side) and each has a nut or screw that holds it in place to the rails. Mounted, you dont't have a hope of getting them out unless the seat base is raised to the max height. The front lift mechanism sttachment is via a nut and it may be removable with the perfect set of tools. In that case, the seat can tilt back and I can access the rear motor to change it (held by two screws and I have a spare seat base with parts). My goal is to replace the rear lift motor and raise the back of the seat. With the front loose, I should then have access to the front/back motor and the entire slider/track assembly. All I can do is lube the track, pound on it to loosen it up, lube the gear train for the motor and pour lots of contact cleaner into the non-sealed motor and try one last time. If that fails, it is angle grinder time to cut the rails off the seat and then remove the rail bolts. If I am careful, I can use the rails and motor off the extra seat base and repair the seat once it is out of the car.
My local dealer told me that they have had to cut a seat out once.
I have always worried about convertibles because of their soft top, in a downpour it wouldn't take long for water to enter and build up in a hurry! That is why I don't like the Boxster Spyder roof, and added the piece of mind of the SmartTop module to my BGTS, one touch close and remote operation as well.The control module under the left side seat controls the door locks, windows maybe, seats, top, rear lights, and probably everything on the rear of the car. If you don't remove the carpets and let them dry there will probably be mold grown. It's bitch but if you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it again? I bought a 2006 Boxster flooded from Tennessee. It appeared the flood was from some ham fisted mechanic messed up the top mechanisms. Broken connectors to the two side gearboxes, only one drip pan in the vehicle and it was twisted up like a leather coat sleeve. I couldn't tell what it was. There's a couple rubber plugs under the chassis in the area of the rear bulk head that partially seal a compartment that also has plugs into the passenger compartment. It will hold water and thus will be seeping inside the car until you remove them on the bottom let that water drain out.
The photos from the first auction showed the car had the top down when it was flooded. The first owner/winner did a remarkable job cleaning things up. The power top controller was reported dead on the insturment cluster, and I have since replaced it. I am sure it has to be re-calibrated but will let the dealer do it as the rear BCM has a part of the top control.I have always worried about convertibles because of their soft top, in a downpour it wouldn't take long for water to enter and build up in a hurry! That is why I don't like the Boxster Spyder roof, and added the piece of mind of the SmartTop module to my BGTS, one touch close and remote operation as well.
I did have to deal with phenomena once, but not in a Porsche but a Jeep YJ, you know the kind, all manual top, dozens of push snaps, before I could even retrieve the top material there was two inches of water on the floor and rising, fortunately unlike the Boxster there is no sensitive electronics and motors under the seats! It took days for the carpet the dry even when it was pulled from the vehicle and hung to dry...
The surface of the carpet felt dry, but after removing the driver's seat to get to the rear BCM, some dampness was felt on the BCM and under the carpet. On a recent warm day, I had both doors open to let a breeze flow through and the underside of the carpet now feels dry. I do have mold/mildew killer preventer that will be used before the seats go back in.The control module under the left side seat controls the door locks, windows maybe, seats, top, rear lights, and probably everything on the rear of the car. If you don't remove the carpets and let them dry there will probably be mold grown. It's bitch but if you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it again? I bought a 2006 Boxster flooded from Tennessee. It appeared the flood was from some ham fisted mechanic messed up the top mechanisms. Broken connectors to the two side gearboxes, only one drip pan in the vehicle and it was twisted up like a leather coat sleeve. I couldn't tell what it was. There's a couple rubber plugs under the chassis in the area of the rear bulk head that partially seal a compartment that also has plugs into the passenger compartment. It will hold water and thus will be seeping inside the car until you remove them on the bottom let that water drain out.
I wish there was a slot or a screw head, but the screw ends have nuts on them that come off when turned. Since the seat position is a worm gear drive, you generally cannot turn the threaded shaft as the worm gear won't turn.I haven't looked at my 987 seats that closely but the 928s had a slot or allen socket to manually move the seats in case of a failure. I will attest to the fact that the rust is largely accelerated by electrolysis when salt water is involved. I learned this after my idea for an l.e.d. blinking fishing lure for deep sea fishing wasn't well sealed. After only about 5 minutes with a 9 volt battery, I pulled up a ziplock full of rusty water and circuits. Unbelievable!
Wow, a lot of things to do, I am sure you knew that, but still when they are listed out they seem endless!As with everything on this seat, I spent 90 minutes to try to get the front lift bracket loose when it should have taken 15 minutes. Two nuts came off fine with a thin wrench with a ratchet embedded in the boxed end. One screw, the one closest to the center console, popped out easily. However, the screw on the door sill side will not pop out, nor move with vice grips. There is limited space to press the screw out and the rail and the seat base appear solid. I am going to get a chisel and try to pull the head of the screw out enough to get two screwdrivers underneath to wedge the screw out. Then I can change motors and go from there. Frustrating.
Thanks,Wow, a lot of things to do, I am sure you knew that, but still when they are listed out they seem endless!
Got to be tough working outside (?) too, a warm dry well lit shop is what would make your job a lot easier to handle, hang in there, we are there with you in spirit!
OK, just opened the kit for the first time It has a #2 Phillips/1/4" blade screwdriver, 10/13 open end wrench, 8mm headlight tool, and that special convertible top tool...OK, I braved the 22F temperature today for 2.5 hours and had a little bit of success.
First, I had bought a wood chisel and used that to pop out the stuck screw that held one of the front lifting arms to the rail. It took a dozen hammer hits to get it to come out but it finally came out. At first I was disappointed as the seat only raised up another inch. However, I realized the seat back was hitting the firewall and by unlatching the seat back and moving it forward, it allowed the seat base to raise nearly a foot off the floor! I have full access to everything under the seat, including full access to the fore/aft motor.
I hooked up power directly to the motor and it was dead. I hit the motor and full rail length with PB Blaster and still no go. The neat thing was the four torx head screws that hold the motor assembly to the rails were accessible and I was able, with difficulty due to losing some dexterity in the fingers due to cold and the high torque of the screws, managed to get the four T30 screws out. I reviewed the motor from the extra seat base and felt there was enough flexibility in the shafts to pull it out. I then went to the passenger seat and just pulled up on the assembly, starting at the black tube side. It left the long spiral shaft in the seat, but pulled out of the black tube and the motor end came out easily. The last bit was to release a wiring clip on the bottom of the metal cross bracket and it was free. That is where I stopped for today, but I have hope next time will yield a seat that moves back and forth.
I did remove one of the two screws in the rear lift motor. The front screw was easily removed, but the rear screw is blind (again a mirror would help) and I decided to wait until the seat is out of the car as it would be more accessible.
After removing the fore/aft motor, I cleaned it with contact cleaner and tried to run it again and it was still dead. So it was not a jammed slider rail, the water killed the motor.
I looked into taking the convertible top down, reading and thinking about using the reverse of the emergency top raise procedure in the owner's manual. It refered to a special tool stored with the tools in the front luggage compartment. The case was there that holds the tools, but every tool was missing (as well as the tire sealant). So I need a top tool. The locking pin at the firewall sides is a 13mm wrench, so that will not be a problem. If anyone has the tool and can tell me if it can be replaced by a socket or wrench and what size, please let me know.