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I have an '06 Atlas Grey CS as a daily driver. I wash it weekly and clay and polish it 2 times a year and take pride in keeping the paint in good shape. The wax I have used primarily on it and on 2 previous cars (both silver metallic) is One Grand Blitz Wax which is a carnauba paste wax. I have always gotten good results and always been pleased with Blitz Wax. My question is, anytime I experiment and try something else (Meguiars Hi-Tech Yellow Wax , NXT and others I can't remember) I get a finish which is hazy, marred, and kind of hologram-like. I have always done everything by hand (never felt the need for a random-orbit polisher) if that makes a difference

Any idea what I am doing wrong/missing?

Thanks
 

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1. I've never used One Grand Blitz Wax so I can't speak to that. I prefer zymol or P21S 100% carnauba wax. They are a little more expensive than Blitz but they are super products.

2. If your finish is hazy it could be scratched. Maybe it's time to use a very mild polish and follow with a good wax.

3. I don't clay just to say that I have clayed. In other words, I am not meeting a twice a year time table. I will clay when I start feeling imperfections on my finish. (Rub your wax on by hand - especially zymol - and if there are any imperfections you will feel them. Then you can clay.)

4. Invest in and learn how to use an random orbital buffer. If you have never used one on a car start by learning on a riding lawnmower or the freezer in your garage.

5. Once I get a good wax on my cars I follow it with something like Meguiar's Final Step or Griot's Speed Shine. (But that's just me.)

6. Visit detailing sites like Autopia - Autopia Home or watch detailers on YouTube.
 

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Hi Brad,

Some good points by gfspencer.

I've been a Blitz Wax user since 1998 and here are some of my thoughts.

The other waxes may just need a longer drying time and what you're seeing may be the new wax still on the surface but smeared around. Blitz wax takes no time to dry and you can wipe it off almost immediately.

Now about your finish, are you sure the clearcoat itself is marred? No way a wax can do this unless your applicator had some grit on it. Wipe down a panel with a gentle polish like P-21S Paintwork cleanser. This will remove whatever layer of wax you have on it. Does the original clear surface return?

If not, than you may have clearcoat scratches and more steps need to be taken.

Tell us what you find.
 

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Also, are you applying your wax on a clean surface? Meaning, have you stripped off the old layers of wax already on the car? It's also possible that some of the waxes/sealants you're trying may not be reacting well with something on the car's finish and causing hazing.
 

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3. I don't clay just to say that I have clayed. In other words, I am not meeting a twice a year time table. I will clay when I start feeling imperfections on my finish. (Rub your wax on by hand - especially zymol - and if there are any imperfections you will feel them. Then you can clay.)

Your hands will not be able to feel the micro contaminants which are attached to your clear coat. Ignoring these tiny particles of brake dust, etc will eventually etch your clear coat and compromise the paint system. By then it is too late.

Before you go through the trouble of applying a wax over a questionable finish, take a sandwich baggy, slide your hand in it and gently glide it over the surface of the clear coat. If there is anything attached to the paint, you will feel it like a boulder. At that point either clay the vehicle with a very mild clay or take it to a trusted professional.
 

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What method are you using to wash your car? The paint might be marred before you put on any wax/sealant. I use the two bucket method with a grit guard.
 

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I'll go with Interpol on this one regarding the waxes "not liking" each other.

I found this out using Zymol once over Griot's, and it was a mess. I have also found that some detailing sprays may streak over some waxes as well.

If I decide to change a wax, I will do a claybar / polish, and start with a fresh surface. I will then use the same brand detailing spray as the wax that I am using, although I have found that Griot's Speed Shine seems to work well on any carnuba I have used. I always apply detailing spray to the wet surface before I dry the car, as it lubricates the towel, and greatly minimizes swirling / micro scratches that can occur when drying, and really leaves behind a very slick surface. And, I will usually do a very light wipe down with detailing spray as a final finish. You will be amazed at how much longer your wax job will hold up with this method.


Regards
 

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You can use a QD to provide some additional slickness to the water to dry it off but if you are using a quality professional car shampoo there should be extreme sheeting and minimal effort to dry the car. I will say this, if you are going to towel dry the vehicle, use a microfiber towel and lay it on the vehicle and pat it dry. Flip it to another wet section, wring it out, continue. Try your best not to rub the finish to dry it. Patience is vital here. The less you rub the clear coat with anything, the better. Make sure you have quality microfiber towels. Ones with silk borders, unless you are absolutely positive that you are not going to rub the vehicle with the edge of one of the towels. The key to proper appearance maintenance is in the details, literally.
 
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