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You probably are making a mistake. I sold my last P-Car and it was a mistake. Took me 7 years to get another one as other priorities take over. If you have no good reason to sell then don’t.
 

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I removed the factory open differential from my '08 Boxster S LE, in preparation for installing a Wavetrac unit (40.309.175WK). I needed to inspect it to obtain the differential carrier bearing part numbers, because the PET catalog doesn't list internal part numbers for the 6-speed transmission. As far as I can ascertain, the 6-speed's carrier bearings are both the same, and equivalent to the LH bearing for the 5-speed transmission. It's an SKF 32010X-type bearing, which is 50 X 80 X 20 (mm) and matches the dimensions of the Porsche part (01X 409 123). I'm assuming the crown gear bolts (N 903 614 01) and stub axle retaining circlips (012 409 413) are common to the 5-speed's as well. The stub axle oil seals (016 409 399 B) are definitely common to both. I will order all of the ancillary parts from Porsche tomorrow.
At the moment, I've run into a couple of dead ends while attempting to pull the bearings and remove the crown gear bolts. I'll have to ask for help from a couple of local shops tomorrow. Once I do pull the bearings from the Porsche differential, I will measure the distances between the crown gear land and the bearing lands, then compare these measurements to the Wavetrac unit's, to calculate any shims I'll need to add or subtract from the OE setup. The goal is to replicate exactly the factory gear backlash and bearing preload, since it was operating perfectly before disassembly.
I'll report back once the installation is complete, which I'd estimate to be in about a week's time depending on parts availability.

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Dave,

Would you give us a short review of your impressions of the Wavetrac diff at your last autocross. Trying to figure out the best solution for a 987 Cayman S. Did it measure up to meeting your expectations?

Colin Cantrell, my installer said-

clutch style over torque biasing has proven to be more predictable and effective in wet or dry. Just my experience.
 

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Well, I only got two runs in before smelling gear oil vapors, finding oil leaking from under the car, and calling it a day. That was my first-ever mechanical DNF. As it turns out, I hadn't fully inserted the stub axles, so the shaft seals weren't containing the oil under high lateral g's. After giving my tech [that would be me] a stern piece of my mind, I performed the necessary cleanup and repairs, and the car is again back to normal.
Anyway, the Auto-X course set up was fast, and my times improved from 61.2 seconds to 58.4 seconds. I reasonably expect that I could've improved that time by a second (or more) in the remaining three alloted runs. For reference, the FTD was in the low 54s, set by our chapter's best A-X driver in a 991 GT3RS. Believe me, he could've done close to that time driving my car. In fact, I had requested that he drive it so that I could pick up a few things he's doing better than me, and to get his impressions of the car's setup, so I was bummed that I had to leave the event early.
The car performed beautifully, and I never felt any understeer upon initial turn in, snap oversteer, or experienced any other bad manners whatsoever. It just willingly went wherever I pointed it, and accelerated and braked when I requested it. I could stand the car on its nose, and modulate the rear rotation at will.
The combination of stiffer Function-First engine and gearbox mounts, Numeric racing shifter, GT3 83-mm throttle body/IPD competition plenum/Soul competition headers/PSE, Softronic tune, and Wavetrac differential have transformed the car into precisely the performance oriented road car that I wanted it to be. For the record, the suspension and alignment are purely stock, and I'm running stock sized 18" Yokohama A052s at 28psig front/30psig rear (cold) tire pressures.
From what I could research, the Wavetrac improves on the "traditional" toque sensing/gear design by enabling it to transfer torque under zero load conditions, such as occur when one drive wheel lifts off the ground, or in transitions between acceleration and braking. I believe that it's rather benign otherwise, so it "plays well" with PSM. In tight turns, I've observed that cars with a spring/clutch style LSD can be heard rapidly chattering as PSM/torque vectoring intervenes by engaging ABS on the inside drive wheel. There is no such discernable chatter from the Wavetrac. In my limited experience, I believe the Wavetrac to be the best choice for performance street/Auto-X use. I ran DEs in a track-oriented Cayman fitted with a Guard LSD for several years, and that was likely the best choice for that environment. One of my students and friends, who exceeded my driving abilities in a few short years, was the first I know to have a Wavetrac [edit - IIRC, but it also might have been an OS-Giken] differential installed in his car. It was set up by Chris Musante's shop, Musante Motorsports, in CT. Chris is a well known and respected engineer and driver in PCA club racing, and I fully respect his car setup skills after driving my student's car. So I was pretty confident that things would work out well when I chose the Wavetrac, and I'm fully satisfied with the outcome (with the exception of my installer's limited competence). [edit - I haven't driven it in the rain yet so I'll have to report back on that aspect at a later date.]

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Drove it into work through a thick fog on it's first day as my DD, watching for the deer I was convinced would be waiting to ambush me just past the ~fifty feet of road I could see clearly. But then the fog cleared and I took the long way home after work.

Not as exciting as a track day, but I still giggled a little bit when I got into the parking lot to go home and remembered that the blue Porsche parked on the far side of the lot was mine.
 

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Well, I only got two runs in before smelling gear oil vapors, finding oil leaking from under the car, and calling it a day. That was my first-ever mechanical DNF. As it turns out, I hadn't fully inserted the stub axles, so the shaft seals weren't containing the oil under high lateral g's. After giving my tech [that would be me] a stern piece of my mind, I performed the necessary cleanup and repairs, and the car is again back to normal.
Anyway, the Auto-X course set up was fast, and my times improved from 61.2 seconds to 58.4 seconds. I reasonably expect that I could've improved that time by a second (or more) in the remaining three alloted runs. For reference, the FTD was in the low 54s, set by our chapter's best A-X driver in a 991 GT3RS. Believe me, he could've done close to that time driving my car. In fact, I had requested that he drive it so that I could pick up a few things he's doing better than me, and to get his impressions of the car's setup, so I was bummed that I had to leave the event early.
The car performed beautifully, and I never felt any understeer upon initial turn in, snap oversteer, or experienced any other bad manners whatsoever. It just willingly went wherever I pointed it, and accelerated and braked when I requested it. I could stand the car on its nose, and modulate the rear rotation at will.
The combination of stiffer Function-First engine and gearbox mounts, Numeric racing shifter, GT3 83-mm throttle body/IPD competition plenum/Soul competition headers/PSE, Softronic tune, and Wavetrac differential have transformed the car into precisely the performance oriented road car that I wanted it to be. For the record, the suspension and alignment are purely stock, and I'm running stock sized 18" Yokohama A052s at 28psig front/30psig rear (cold) tire pressures.
From what I could research, the Wavetrac improves on the "traditional" toque sensing/gear design by enabling it to transfer torque under zero load conditions, such as occur when one drive wheel lifts off the ground, or in transitions between acceleration and braking. I believe that it's rather benign otherwise, so it "plays well" with PSM. In tight turns, I've observed that cars with a spring/clutch style LSD can be heard rapidly chattering as PSM/torque vectoring intervenes by engaging ABS on the inside drive wheel. There is no such discernable chatter from the Wavetrac. In my limited experience, I believe the Wavetrac to be the best choice for performance street/Auto-X use. I ran DEs in a track-oriented Cayman fitted with a Guard LSD for several years, and that was likely the best choice for that environment. One of my students and friends, who exceeded my driving abilities in a few short years, was the first I know to have a Wavetrac [edit - IIRC, but it also might have been an OS-Giken] differential installed in his car. It was set up by Chris Musante's shop, Musante Motorsports, in CT. Chris is a well known and respected engineer and driver in PCA club racing, and I fully respect his car setup skills after driving my student's car. So I was pretty confident that things would work out well when I chose the Wavetrac, and I'm fully satisfied with the outcome (with the exception of my installer's limited competence). [edit - I haven't driven it in the rain yet so I'll have to report back on that aspect at a later date.]

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Just curious the Soul mods you did - can you quantify the increase in HP and torque ? Was it worth the investment ? Did it meet your expectations? Thanks
 

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Dave- Thanks for the great review. That's exactly the info I will relay to Colin and have his team install the Wavetrac in a few weeks. I am not sure he actually has any direct info on Wavetrac. So, it will be my preference for autocross as his competition business is mainly focused on track cars around the west coast.
 

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Just curious the Soul mods you did - can you quantify the increase in HP and torque ? Was it worth the investment ? Did it meet your expectations? Thanks
I did not quantify the effects from these changes, but I'd performed similar mods on my previous 2007 Cayman 2.7 that yielded measurable (~10%) gains in TQ and HP across the usable RPM band.
What is immeasurable is the face splitting, grin inducing soundtrack above 5000RPM. That alone is worth the price.of admission to me.
I bought several of these parts new-in-box at a significant discount from forum members who, for one reason or another, never got around to installing them. I bought the Soul headers when they ran a special promotion. But I've also found that it never hurts to ask for a "members" discount! The Soul headers are top quality parts. I can recommend them without hesitation.

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I did not quantify the effects from these changes, but I'd performed similar mods on my previous 2007 Cayman 2.7 that yielded measurable (~10%) gains in TQ and HP across the usable RPM band.
What is immeasurable is the face splitting, grin inducing soundtrack above 5000RPM. That alone is worth the price.of admission to me.
I bought several of these parts new-in-box at a significant discount from forum members who, for one reason or another, never got around to installing them. I bought the Soul headers when they ran a special promotion. But I've also found that it never hurts to ask for a "members" discount! The Soul headers are top quality parts. I can recommend them without hesitation.

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You guys are lucky in that you can choose from the entire rage of aftermarket headers.. the only option for me if I do decide to go 200 cell cats is the Carnewal as my local MOT can be rather anal and visual checks are part of the over inspection. It gets very inconvenient when you are marked with "non approved" after market changes. That's the only reason why my exhaust has stayed stock.
 

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I did not quantify the effects from these changes, but I'd performed similar mods on my previous 2007 Cayman 2.7 that yielded measurable (~10%) gains in TQ and HP across the usable RPM band.
What is immeasurable is the face splitting, grin inducing soundtrack above 5000RPM. That alone is worth the price.of admission to me.
I bought several of these parts new-in-box at a significant discount from forum members who, for one reason or another, never got around to installing them. I bought the Soul headers when they ran a special promotion. But I've also found that it never hurts to ask for a "members" discount! The Soul headers are top quality parts. I can recommend them without hesitation.

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:) oh yeah I fully understand the "grin" part - located in Toronto where we expect a ton of snow and all I can do is dream about how much fun April will be when I get my car out finally. As for the mods - I hear you. I am trying to get about 10% improvement in performance ie: 30 HP more and quicker response / more aggresive in torque and the beautiful sound of a great exhaust makes it all worthwhile. Thanks very much for your input / experience ... Abe
 

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:) oh yeah I fully understand the "grin" part - located in Toronto where we expect a ton of snow and all I can do is dream about how much fun April will be when I get my car out finally. As for the mods - I hear you. I am trying to get about 10% improvement in performance ie: 30 HP more and quicker response / more aggresive in torque and the beautiful sound of a great exhaust makes it all worthwhile. Thanks very much for your input / experience ... Abe
I think the best proven way to get there for our NA engines are headers and a tune. All the rest seem to be for more noise and stuff like IPD have very very mixed reviews.
 

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:) oh yeah I fully understand the "grin" part - located in Toronto where we expect a ton of snow and all I can do is dream about how much fun April will be when I get my car out finally. As for the mods - I hear you. I am trying to get about 10% improvement in performance ie: 30 HP more and quicker response / more aggresive in torque and the beautiful sound of a great exhaust makes it all worthwhile. Thanks very much for your input / experience ... Abe
No need to wait till April Abe. Do what I do, slap some winter rubber on and drive it! You'll be surprised how well these cars handle in the winter. And the cold winter air improves power output at least 10%! :geek:
3.jpg
 

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No need to wait till April Abe. Do what I do, slap some winter rubber on and drive it! You'll be surprised how well these cars handle in the winter. And the cold winter air improves power output at least 10%! :geek:
View attachment 266509
Looking at your car olegd, I'm wondering now if I should have gone with the R wing. You disabled the electronic spoiler? My duck tail just arrived today and I'll be installing it tomorrow.
 

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No need to wait till April Abe. Do what I do, slap some winter rubber on and drive it! You'll be surprised how well these cars handle in the winter. And the cold winter air improves power output at least 10%! :geek:
View attachment 266509
Mine below - Toronto Beaches … love your colour :) - Midnight blue and love the rims on it …Got plated and now sits … its coming out end of march regardless … what year is yours ? Love the 987.2 variants ...best ones made in humble opinion. enjoy ...watch the snow this wkend ...
 

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Looking at your car olegd, I'm wondering now if I should have gone with the R wing. You disabled the electronic spoiler? My duck tail just arrived today and I'll be installing it tomorrow.
I removed the whole stock spoiler mechanism and installed the R spoiler, there is also a cover piece which goes over the old spoiler opening. R spoiler sits further up the hatch.
It's not a simple upgrade. Not to mention R spoilers are difficult to find.
 

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Mine below - Toronto Beaches … love your colour :) - Midnight blue and love the rims on it …Got plated and now sits … its coming out end of march regardless … what year is yours ? Love the 987.2 variants ...best ones made in humble opinion. enjoy ...watch the snow this wkend ...
Mine is 2010 Base. I've had it for 3.5 years and still in love :love:
 

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Cool! Do feedback your thoughts after a few miles.
For Speedy as well.

Alignment complete.
After approx 200 miles of street driving, I am liking this change. Car drop is approximately 20 mm on all 4 corners and although lower, no real issues with speed bumps (called speed humps in some places - [not going anywhere with that one!]) or other obstacles.
The car turns in better (although the slightly more negative camber in the front is likely the main improvement).
Over sharp bumps (the stock suspension had a harsh rebound which would always provoke a comment from the wife), the harsh rebound is noticeably absent. However, on some of the rippled road surfaces due to the winter temps, the ride is jiggly - but changing speed can minimize this effect.
Otherwise, the car has a more settled and poised attitude - less vagueness about what it will do in turns. Straight line stability is still great.
I recommend it if you're so inclined.
266525
 

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For Speedy as well.

Alignment complete.
After approx 200 miles of street driving, I am liking this change. Car drop is approximately 20 mm on all 4 corners and although lower, no real issues with speed bumps (called speed humps in some places - [not going anywhere with that one!]) or other obstacles.
The car turns in better (although the slightly more negative camber in the front is likely the main improvement).
Over sharp bumps (the stock suspension had a harsh rebound which would always provoke a comment from the wife), the harsh rebound is noticeably absent. However, on some of the rippled road surfaces due to the winter temps, the ride is jiggly - but changing speed can minimize this effect.
Otherwise, the car has a more settled and poised attitude - less vagueness about what it will do in turns. Straight line stability is still great.
I recommend it if you're so inclined. View attachment 266525
Looking very cool with a lower stance. Maybe R swaybars or Tarett GT adjustable swaybars so you can change the balance to reduce understeer.
 
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