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I changed the front wheel bearings, enjoy the difference.
Had lots of troubles to disconnect the drop links. We’re stuck to the struts

today I started sanding the headlights...
 

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sk8Flyer - Take it easy on the lights, you do not want sand marks that you can see. We (US) have special type of cleaner wax that has particles like a very thin sand emulsion that takes off the oxidation without scratches.
 

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Oil change on Saturday with Total 5w40 but left the hatch open for a few hours and Sunday the car wouldn't start. Third time this has happened in as many months so new battery to replace the one marked 10/13 that was in the car. Also, was able to replace failed low horn from the bottom. Quite an exercise but it is possible even with a center radiator!
 

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You can remove the horn from the bracket with a 13 mm socket, a short ratchet and a ton of patients. While my oil was draining I had the car up a reasonable amount and was able to reach in the bottom vent hole. First, removed the horn from the bracket, then unplugged and wiggled it out.
 

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This is on my to-do list...I've been procrastinating because of the bumper removal. Any tips to share?
Taking the bumper off only takes like 5 minutes.

Pop the hood, pop off the black trim piece that goes around the hood latch (it's velcro'd on). This will reveal 5 torx screws to remove.

You don't actually have to remove the headlights, but just follow the owners manual for bulb replacement if you want to take them out.

Between the headlights and the frunk are sliding tab clips. Grab these with a hook or pliers and pull them out.

I think there were 9 torx screws along the bottom of the bumper. All visible except for the corners by the wheel wells where they are subset slightly and you may need a small extension.

Pop out the corner marker lights (again, just follow the owners manual for bulb replacement).

Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left to give you access to pull back the wheel well liner and access the screw behind the corner marker light. Then repeat this on the other side.

On the driver's side, the washer sprayer line is clipped in up behind the corner light. You can slide it off it's bracket to get working room and then unclip the quick disconnect. A bit of fluid may drip out.

On the passenger's side, you'll want to disconnect the wiring harness that feeds power to the corner lights and fog lights.

The bumper is then just being held in place by it's own plastic clips, so all you have to do is pull it off. You'll need to pull it forward, as there are tabs behind the corner lights that the bumper slides into.
 

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Tracked it. Did my first PCA High-performance Driver's Clinic as a track novice but PCA member of 30 years....guess it was time.

Car performed flawlessly on its Bridgestones w/ stock pads and suspension setup. The short, Jefferson circuit (~ a 1 mile) at Summit Point is a great place to learn and I got a wonderful instructor who led me through the braking, wet skid pad, and track portions of the day. Car was in 3rd and 4th gears the whole time racing and pulled smoothly and solidly from 4000-6500 rpm. The BMC filter, Milltek exhaust, and EVOMSit tune worked flawlessly together and helped me to stay out front. Exciting to be mixing it up with Caymans, 911s, and even 2 GT3 Tourings.

If you EVER get a chance to do a HPDC in your area, I 100% recommend it. These cars love to drive to the track, race, and then drive home.

Planning to sign up for a fall DE (very popular and full here) and looking at higher performing brake fluid and pads as after 20-40 hot laps, both were fading. Now I understand the "slippery slope" term racers have used over the years.

Tchuss!
 

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You should try VIR
 

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I've been checking off the to-do list on my "new" (as of last Oct) 2007 Cayman. The list came from the PPI report I had done prior to purchase. So far I've replaced the windshield wipers, front brake pads and rotors, installed the LN spin-on filter and filter magnet. Yesterday I removed the engine covers and replaced the air filter which was surprisingly dirty. Next I'll replace the AOS, as well as spark plugs and coilpacks (these items are preventative). "While I'm in there" ... I'm thinking of also replacing the water pump, thermostat, and shifter cables.

So far, I'm impressed with the build quality of what I see in the car. I am concerned however with the front wheel bearings. When I rotate the front hubs, I can feel some notchiness, even a bit of "grittiness." There's no play at all, and I feel nothing unusual when rotating the hubs when the rotors or wheels are attached. I think I will just wait to see if anything develops on the bearing front (IMS included!).

I've only driven the car some 600 kms, so I really don't know if I will like it. I also have a BMW 135i, which must be sold if I'm keeping the Porsche. Selling the BMW is a tough decision for me; the BMW is a very nice "sporty" car--fast as heck, with a completely rebuild/upgraded suspension. It's also much more practical when traveling, and has all the luxury amenities I could want. I will miss the BMW greatly--wish I could keep both!

Anyone interested in a BMW 135?!? :)
 

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@Bougie I agree with @mechavore884. It's on the verge of being intolerable. To add to that, to my ear, the exhaust just doesn't sound good. No character. No bass/rumble or other interesting pitch. It's either moderate boring noise, or soul crushing droning. Nothing in-between.

 

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Dabporsche; I had a 135 BMW for 2 years. Real pretty Le Mans Blue. I only did it wheels and tires (terrible run flats) on it. Traded it for a Mini Cooper which my monthly payment from $1000 to $279.
Sounds you did quite a bit of works on it, love it and it is more practical; so why did you change ? I had a 2006 CS also before the BMW.
 

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Dabporsche; I had a 135 BMW for 2 years. Real pretty Le Mans Blue. I only did it wheels and tires (terrible run flats) on it. Traded it for a Mini Cooper which my monthly payment from $1000 to $279.
Sounds you did quite a bit of works on it, love it and it is more practical; so why did you change ? I had a 2006 CS also before the BMW.
Ah ... Good question! I've always wanted a Porsche, which is the primary reason for buying the '07 Cayman. And yes, I have done quite a bit of work to the BMW: Michelin A/S 3's, BMW Performance Suspension (w. Bilstein HD shocks), some body/paint work, all oils and filters, oil filter housing gasket, belt and pulleys, etc. It has a JB45 tune which I shift in and out of on the fly, but even in stock tune, the car really hauls (heaps of torque, full-on at 1800rpm).

The BMW is a sporty car, the Porsche a sports car. That's probably the best way to describe the difference. Also there's one thing about the BMW that bothers, though it is a very slight issue. Even though there's virtually no turbo-lag, I still feel that the power delivery is a bit to "elastic". Don't know if that makes sense or not ...

Anyway, hope that answers your question. If it doesn't, then what I've written reflects my ambivalence between the two cars. For half the price of the Porsche, the BMW is phenomenal. And, some days (when reading all the things that might go wrong with the Porsche), it feels like the BMW is veritable Toyota Corolla by comparison!
 

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The 1 series, now 2 series especially the M240 or M2 are probably the only BMW's I would consider for myself.
I was watching a number of BMW's at a recent autocross and was totally surprise how big and boaty most of the models are now. A real shame, sorry to see it.

I know exactly what you are saying about the power delivery. My 135 was very quick once it was on the boil. I always thought you better be ready to drive once it was going. Maybe it was the tune but probably also some lag.
I haven't driven a 718 and wonder how that turbo is. Haven't really heard people complaining about that just that it's a 4 and they don't like how it sounds. I think most of that is because it's not a NA 6 and that's not allowed in a Porsche. I can understand it and guess after 25 years and 6 Porsches I feel that way too and yet I've never been in one or driven one.
 

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The 1 series, now 2 series especially the M240 or M2 are probably the only BMW's I would consider for myself.
I was watching a number of BMW's at a recent autocross and was totally surprise how big and boaty most of the models are now. A real shame, sorry to see it.

I know exactly what you are saying about the power delivery. My 135 was very quick once it was on the boil. I always thought you better be ready to drive once it was going. Maybe it was the tune but probably also some lag.
I haven't driven a 718 and wonder how that turbo is. Haven't really heard people complaining about that just that it's a 4 and they don't like how it sounds. I think most of that is because it's not a NA 6 and that's not allowed in a Porsche. I can understand it and guess after 25 years and 6 Porsches I feel that way too and yet I've never been in one or driven one.
What I'm after above-all is simple mechanical palpability. And I'm hoping my 987.1 will give me that. My first (and most distilled) taste of such a machine was a 356 that I had the privilege of driving for a few miles. Only drove it 20 mins at the most, but I was spoilt for want of that feel in everything I drove since then.
 

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@ Apex1 Thanks for the info
I use only professional grit 3000 and 3M micron patch for spot repair
No sand mark but takes some times 😉
sk8Flyer - Take it easy on the lights, you do not want sand marks that you can see. We (US) have special type of cleaner wax that has particles like a very thin sand emulsion that takes off the oxidation without scratches.
 

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hahahaa im loving the number of former e82 owners (me included)
Yeah, it's a thing. Crazy part though is that I originally wanted a Porsche, but the logic dissuading me (mostly from my wife) was: Too expensive. After two e82's, one frs, two Lexus, I have the Porsche. With all the money lost buying and selling the "half-measure" vehicles, I could have probably had the Porsche for free. Live and learn (and then forget)!!!
 

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Oil service, Mahle filter, service reset, brake flush with Ate (difficult word to say it's German) dot 4 -200. Serpentine belt check, wax inside the fenders ( I know I have a problem but the wheels were off so...) wax calipers, change air filter, vacuum intakes with custom made flexible plastic non scratching tube attachment. Top off pentosin coolant, check power steering fluid, service battery with distilled water, check tire inflation, replace rug hold. Now it's ready for spring polishing.
 
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