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So, if I start at Sport 6 for dry, where do I put the setting for rain?
 

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I’m using Sport 6 now also. Tried Race mode 5 and it was too much for daily driving. Maybe for the track, but not everyday.
Agreed. I’m in Sport 7 daily. I tried race 3 at an AutoX (after several laps. In S7 without telling my instructor). His feedback at the end of that session was to “not be so aggressive on the throttle”! I went back to S7…


Shawn in VA (USA)
 

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2011 Cayman S, Sport Chrono
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153 Posts
Don’t the peddle boxes to affect the fly-by-wire throttle portion. Eg, you press the throttle 10%, it opens the throttle body by 40%. Giving the impression of a faster/more torquey rev.

Certainly no ‘remap’ that affect actual power.
The Sprint Booster changes nothing with the engine. There is no difference in HP or torque. What it does is quicken the drive by wire for the gas pedal. But it doesn’t do this by changing the ratio (e.g. 10% throttle turns into 40% throttle body activation). Rather it removes the delay between pressing the gas pedal and the reaction of the throttle body. The engine responds more quickly to the input.

The reason it makes the car feel faster is that from the moment you take action to go faster, to the moment you are actually going faster has been quickened. You feel more connected to the car because it responds more immediately. I’ve found it makes driving on a track much better. There is no place for a “dampened” throttle response on the track.

One downside is that setting it too aggressively makes shifting a manual transmission more tricky. But I’ve found a medium setting that works well. Like some of you, I don’t use the “race” settings. The sport mode is the sweet spot.
 

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Don’t the peddle boxes to affect the fly-by-wire throttle portion. Eg, you press the throttle 10%, it opens the throttle body by 40%. Giving the impression of a faster/more torquey rev.

Certainly no ‘remap’ that affect actual power.
This is a common misconception. Only the cheap Chinese generic throttle boosters on Ebay behave that way. The Sprint Booster or Pedal Commander do not do this, and cannot be replicated by simply pressing the pedal harder/faster.

As stated above, 0-100% pedal position still equals 0-100% throttle position, so nothing changes other then the built in factory delay that is programmed between the pedal and the actual TB opening. This delay is there from the factory to to "smooth" things out so the throttle is not so aggressive. Great for a Toyota Camry grocery getter, but annoying on a proper sports car. The video shows what is happening

 

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So, I bought one and will install as soon as it arrives. My question is how much throttle modulation is necessary from the apex to the corner exit for either autocross or HPDE? Street mostly whenever. I have three sets of tires to wear out, so God help the engine from here on out. I still will be very careful leaving in the morning though using a M97 engine. Where do you feel the most bang for the buck is made with Sprint Booster? Can you actually spin the rear tires in 2nd gear? I have RE71RS, Hoosiers A7's and Michelin PS4S;s so I will see which ones have more traction.
 

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Im a street driver guy, so it will be interesting to hear your impressions once you get your Apex. Your track needs are very different than mine, but the biggest bang for the buck for me is the fact that it makes the car drive like I feel a proper sports car should from the beginning.

My PDK car can already spin the tires and walk the back end a bit on redline 1-2 shifts without one since the TB is already wide open anyway, but not sure if any difference on the manuals? I like Race 3 for my PDK, but this may be completely different for a proper manual since you guys dont have a computer making 100 millisecond shifts for you without lifting!

The overall driving experience is much improved over stock, and there are very few things if any that can do that and bring such a smile to your face on these cars for $300
 

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Just wondering if you have experienced really sticky tires and the lack of wheel spin with large tire patch tires. Even 500 hp GT3RS get settled down quickly. That's why I asked about 2 gear wheel spin. I'm using my new RE71RS tires on the street now. Very sticky and not much wheel spin after the 2 gear shift. My Hoosier A7's have even more grip. They are truly qualifiers for road racers. About 3-4 laps and they would be overheated.
 

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2008 Porsche Cayman S. Powdercoated wheels
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I've only had my 2008 Cayman S since Dec 21, 2022. Recently upgraded tail lights to ones with dynamic turn signal, installed LED bulbs in entire interior to update the look as well as in the front trunk and rear hatch and rear license plate lights. Installed wheel spacers (super easy to do)...7mm front and 15mm rear. Put on "Porsche" graphics on bottom of door in anthracite to match the powder coated 19" wheels, tinted windows and repaired the twisted drivers side seat belt and the infamous cupholder unit. Last things to do is a full polish (new polishing kit arriving this coming week) and then clear bra on front and outside mirrors.
 

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2008 Porsche Cayman S
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182 Posts
Hit the magic 150,000 Miles.

I had planned to be doing 150mph when it ticked over to 150,000 but peak hour traffic leaving the office conspired against me :)
View attachment 285417
Nice to see numbers like this! I am almost 100k away and would enjoy hitting the same in the future. Have you performed any "major" maintenance like an IMS oiler , Plenum upgrades etc?
 

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Nice to see numbers like this! I am almost 100k away and would enjoy hitting the same in the future. Have you performed any "major" maintenance like an IMS oiler , Plenum upgrades etc?
Mine is a 2006 Boxster S and so has the non serviceable but "better" IMS so I'm not concerned about this one. I got it nearly 2 years ago with nearly 128,000 already on it but there did appear to have been some deferred maintenance. I haven't done any performance mods yet but have done the following:
New tires (General GMAX RS 235/40 and 275/40), these now need replacing after 22k.
Water pump and lower temp thermostat (water pump needs replacing again, discovered its weeping on the weekend while doing the oil change and inspection).
Front engine mount
Coils and plugs
AOS and the hoses that split while inspecting/replacing it.
Front inner tie rods
Front sway bar links
Oil and filter changes at 6k, 12k, 17k and 22k. Blackstone reports are coming back with "very healthy" results.

It does need timing chain guides (small bits of brown plastic in the bottom of the sump plate when I remove it). I'm not looking forward to this job...I don't have a lift so will do this on my back.
Likely also needs new shocks and various cosmetic touch ups.

Love driving and working on this car!
 

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Ordered new tires, Ordered new taillights to dispose of the hideous rattle can sprayed ones that came with the car. Ordered a double DIN head unit (Alpine shallow mount) Then began the paint correction process. Hopefully by the end of today to will be ready for Ceramics (Carpro UK Quartz and Carpro Bliss for a topcoat)
Tire Wheel Car Land vehicle Vehicle
 

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2006 987 Cayman S
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Brake overhaul! Sebro slotted/vented rotors on all 4 corners, already feels like a nice upgrade over stock cross-drilled rotors, even aesthetically. Goodridge stainless steel braided brake lines and Ferodo DS2500 pads all around. Fluid flush with Motul's RBF600 should also help with the brake fluid overheating I had at my last trackday. Planning to throw on Sonax CC36 on the calipers the next time my wheels are off in order to help protect the caliper paint from being eaten away by brake dust. Tomorrow, the brand new PCCM+ head unit from Porsche with CarPlay is getting installed.
Automotive tire Vehicle brake Locking hubs Automotive design Disc brake
Abrasive saw Vehicle brake Automotive tire Locking hubs Automotive design
 

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2011 Porsche Cayman S
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305 Posts
Brave man. Well done .


Shawn in VA (USA)
Thank you. It really wasn’t bad to do. It probably took me longer than it should have but I took my time and measured a thousand times. After I screwed on the template I knew it was no turning back. It was a lot cheaper than a gt3 bumper which I’ll probably do down the road. For now I am content with it. It saved me some money for some other upgrades.


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Thank you. It really wasn’t bad to do. It probably took me longer than it should have but I took my time and measured a thousand times. After I screwed on the template I knew it was no turning back. It was a lot cheaper than a gt3 bumper which I’ll probably do down the road. For now I am content with it. It saved me some money for some other upgrades.


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I consider getting a GT4 bumper cover when I scraped up mine but price kept me from that and I went with repairing it. Where did you get the kit?


Shawn in VA (USA)
 
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