Planet-9 Porsche Forum banner

What did you do to your 987 today?

1294153 Views 9188 Replies 1201 Participants Last post by  guzzista
A popular VW enthusiast site has a similar thread. Post up what you did to your 987. Types of things to post could be cleaning, maintaining, modifying, piloting it around a track, etc. Post pics if you can. This thread can inspire others to do something similar. I'll start...
  • Like
Reactions: 1
9161 - 9180 of 9189 Posts
My vehicles only run on top tier, 91 octane, ethanol-free gas.
  • Like
Reactions: 1
I am not sure that I have ever seen "Top Tier" branded ethanol free gas.
What station?
  • Like
Reactions: 1
I am not sure that I have ever seen "Top Tier" branded ethanol free gas.
What station?
Same. Shell near me used to have it I think but no longer. There is a non-TT station that does but I don’t use it.


Shawn in VA (USA)
Agree … not sure which brand is best, but I only use BP or Shell in my old 987.2 BS … she only likes the good stuff and will sputter on Speedway … she’s a bit of a diva when it comes to her fuel.
Surprisingly - BP isn't a top-tier fuel: top tier fuel brands - Google Search

That's not to say it's a bad brand, I've been using it (and Amoco before it was bought by BP) for about 55 years now. Back when Amoco was the only unleaded fuel available.

Some surprising brands ARE Top-Tier in the US, some of the discount brands: TOP TIER™ Gasoline Brands - TOP TIER™
Surprisingly - BP isn't a top-tier fuel: top tier fuel brands - Google Search

That's not to say it's a bad brand, I've been using it (and Amoco before it was bought by BP) for about 55 years now. Back when Amoco was the only unleaded fuel available.

Some surprising brands ARE Top-Tier in the US, some of the discount brands: TOP TIER™ Gasoline Brands - TOP TIER™
Also, read the signs at the station.
Many times "specialty" fuels are not from the brand of the station.
Surprisingly - BP isn't a top-tier fuel…
I’m always surprised by who is and is not on the TT list. I always thought BP was.


Shawn in VA (USA)
4
Used a ceramic coating product on the cowl below the windshield wipers, which had faded to a light gray color. Used CERAKOTE® Ceramic Trim Coat Kit - Quick Plastic Trim Restorer. Quick and easy using pre-moistened applicators. It's supposed to last for 200 washes. We'll see.

For now, just did one coat as I was running out of sunlight.

Before and after pictures below.

Bicycle tire Automotive tire Hood Automotive design Automotive exterior
Bicycle tire Hood Automotive tire Tread Motor vehicle
Hood Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive lighting
Hood Automotive tire Automotive design Motor vehicle Automotive lighting
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 3
Used a ceramic coating product on the cowl below the windshield wipers, which had faded to a light gray color. Used CERAKOTE® Ceramic Trim Coat Kit - Quick Plastic Trim Restorer. Quick and easy using pre-moistened applicators. It's supposed to last for 200 washes. We'll see.

For now, just did one coat as I was running out of sunlight.
I, quite a few months ago - used regular ceramic sealant on the same cowl section while I was doing the entire paint finish on the car, and the difference was dramatic, it basically looked new. Mine wasn't quite as faded as yours was though. It's held up since then fine, but I think for Christmas I received the same CERAKOTE trim coat kit, and tried it.

I thought the Cerakote coating is softer and thicker than the standard ceramic coating made for painted sections of the car. Good thing? Bad thing? Really no opinion. Being adventurous - I had just cleaned my wheels and decided to try using it on the rims. It took close to a day to fully harden (it was a bit cold when I used it, which isn't recommended), but when done, it left a nice looking clear coating on the rims that seems to shed brake dust much better than the old and probably etched factory paint on the rims. So far no peeling or other issues with it.

I do still have most of it left, so I intend to redo all the plastics in the frunk and the trunk, and perhaps the black plastic on the door sills (after trying to buff off as much of the scuffing as I can.) IMHO - it's a good addition to the fanatics finishing/detailing supplies, but as usual, try in an inconspicuous area before trying to treat a visible area, make sure it's doing what you want it to.
See less See more
Finally got around to wash / coat the soft top (after removing the hard top and doing Mother's day chores :) ) with 303, and found out 303 Fabric Guard has the same main ingridient as my tile grout sealer (i.e., petroleum distillates) - I was curious as the odor was the same.
Replaced the "Water guide"...not a fun process, took me the best part of 8 hours..Also replaced the vent line from the AOS to intake and accessory drive belt with Porsche factory belt (these are only $18 now from the dealer). My previous belt was only 25k miles old but I'd seen posts about after market belts seemingly being the cause of some peoples misfire codes. Not the case for me, still sometimes getting codes.

Cheers,
Julian
Removed the front bumper to replace my leaking ac condenser and clean the **** on my radiators that the grill guards let through.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  • Like
Reactions: 2
Scheduled a performance alignment. I'm hoping to get a bit of an upgrade for autocross. I also changed out my gear oil (used Motul 300 75/90). It was very dirty. Shift feel is much more crisp. My car only held just under 3 quarts. I do have a Quaife limited slip differential. My best guess is that the LSD reduced the gear oil volume a little bit.
Didn't do this "today" but this past weekend I finally got the Boxster out to a track day. Had a freaking blast!

  • Like
Reactions: 2
Changed the oil and repaired a windshield washer leak.

The washer fluid had all dumped out on my garage floor. I figured the tank had cracked, so I lifted the car, removed the front left wheel, and removed the wheel well liner. Turns out the tank was fine, but the pump had lifted its way almost completely out of the grommet. I suppose I hit a bump and it popped up a bit.

I reseated it back down where it should be and used a zip tie to keep it from popping up again. The zip tie doesn't attach to anything, but it goes around the pump, and the square clamping portion of the tie bumps up against a flange on the tank and prevents the pump from moving up. Works great!
I had a slight washer fluid leak. It seems to have stopped for the time being. I will have to check for that same issue next time I have the front driver's wheel off the car. Hopefully it isn't too difficult to dig into the fender liner.
Finally got around to wash / coat the soft top (after removing the hard top and doing Mother's day chores :) ) with 303, and found out 303 Fabric Guard has the same main ingridient as my tile grout sealer (i.e., petroleum distillates) - I was curious as the odor was the same.
Keep in mind that "petroleum distillates" are usually just carriers for the actual main ingredient that you're interested in. The distillates evaporate away, leaving behind the actual ingredient you're interested in... in the case of the fabric guard, it's the protectant. This could be the same or similar as the grout sealer, but it may not be.

But, yes, the distillates are likely also the smell you get when you apply...
I had a slight washer fluid leak. It seems to have stopped for the time being. I will have to check for that same issue next time I have the front driver's wheel off the car. Hopefully it isn't too difficult to dig into the fender liner.
The fender liner was not difficult to remove, 5 torx screws and 3 10mm plastic bolts. However, there are two fasteners that are hard to see/find. One is a torx screw under the rocker, just behind the wheel opening. It is very close to the jacking point, so it may be hidden depending on where your jack stand or lift pad has been placed. The other is a 10mm plastic nut that is in a recess up in the wheel well, at about an 11:00 o'clock position as you look at the well.

The liner is actually in two pieces, you only need to remove the rear piece. It covers about 2/3 of the well.

To remove the washer tank, there's a 13mm bolt up at the top. Then the tank is held by two large rubber grommets that press into steel flanges just ahead of the door opening. They are in there pretty tight, it took me a lot of wiggling and pulling to get them free. Then there are two electrical connectors: one in the middle of the tank for the level sensor, the other towards the bottom for the pump. The rubber feed tube is just a slip-on fit to the pump. Finally there's the fill tube at the top, which is again a press fit into a large cone-shaped rubber grommet in the tank.

As usual, installation is the reverse of removal. Pressing the tank's locating grommets into the steel flanges is a challenge, as they are very tight and the working room is minimal.
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 2
I had a slight washer fluid leak. It seems to have stopped for the time being. I will have to check for that same issue next time I have the front driver's wheel off the car. Hopefully it isn't too difficult to dig into the fender liner.
Do check the washer pump/motor - most of the leaks come from the rubber around it.
4
I had a washer tank leak and I hunted it for a few weeks. Turns out for me it was the motor itself. It looked perfectly fine from the outside. On the inside... it was not fine.
Camera accessory Cameras & optics Gas Cylinder Auto part

Gas Auto part Electronic device Coil Fashion accessory

Fluid Liquid Automotive wheel system Gas Auto part

Automotive tire Fluid Wood Automotive wheel system Auto part
See less See more
  • Like
  • Wow
Reactions: 5
9161 - 9180 of 9189 Posts
Top