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I've used 23 mm in the rear to get a flush look. That would go with 18 mm in front. However, I am compromised due to the Tarett Cup LCA's with their own spaces to kick up the camber, but at the same time also changes the track width. You just do not want your tire shoulders hitting the upper fender lips under compression. My camber is -2.9 f and -2.5 r so I'm not a stock OEM suspension platform. I can use the 987.1 OEM 8 " 57 offset f and 9" 43 offset rear with Michelin PS4Ss in 245/35/18 f and 275/35/18 r. This setup will be going on my car in a couple of weeks.
 
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With a 34mm ride height drop, the fender lips are much closer to the tire shoulders. So a big compression could cause some marks on the tires shoulders. I have not experiences any rubs yet after 4 years with this configuration in the winter months. This is the way my car will look in a couple of weeks. It definitely is not a snow car.
Land vehicle Car Wheel Vehicle Window
 
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My ride height is about 15mm lower than OEM. PASM lowers the car about 5mm and my Ohlins lower it about another 10 from that OEM. I had the car corner balanced as well so each corner is different than OEM as well, I also changed the rake, front to back a little so the rear is lower than OEM by a few more mm. This adds some weight over the rear to help get addition traction out of the corners.
 
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I find that 17 inch wheels are a problem with front brake clearance. No way around this except for some aftermarket rim barrels that are completely flat. Your choice is to sell those rims and go with 18's, I recall a guy called CMOOSE on Pistonheads, that used very successfully 17 inch rims on his 06 Cayman S. Maybe in the 987.2 model the brake calipers are different requiring a larger wheel barrel. Not sure. But, according to many of his posts, the 17 inch wheels and his choice of tires gave him a very satisfactory ride over the English country side.
Please send a picture of your project. Visual look certainly helps.
 
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