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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Are there any thoughts on the differences between the Deep Sump Extensions available for the 987 Gen 1 engine?

Mantis... includes main sump spacer, Windage Tray and Pick-up Spacer

LN Engineering... includes sump spacer, oil baffle spacer, oil pickup tube extension.

Brey-Krause... includes sump spacer only. I'm not so interested in this one.

So Mantis has horizontal oil baffle but no existing vertical baffle spacer, LN provides existing oil baffle spacer, but no windage spacer. Both have the outer spacer and the inner sump tube pickup spacer.

Ok, that sounds redundant. Sorry.

Any suggestion, additional information?

Track Day soon, thought I'd do this with the engine oil change and brake fluid upgrade. (Stock tires for now)
 

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We have not used any Mantis parts in the past but have a long history with parts from LN Engineering. Although we have not used the part in question, the pistons and cylinders we have used have been top notch and the service from Charles is fantastic.

Cheers
 

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Accusump (Canton) or kit (LN) no need for different sump
 

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I've installed both a Mantis and LN deep sumps, albeit on a 9A1 motor. Personally, I'd go for the LN unit. At least with the 9A1 unit, the oil tube pick-up extension was of superior design and much easier to assemble and install. With Mantis I received no instructions, no support via phone or email -- nothing; contrast with LN Engineering, when I asked them to verify I had correctly assembled the pickup extension, I promptly received an email from Charles (one of the owners). I also have a long string of emails from Charles and a number of his crew who have provided me with tons of information and tips about setting up my CR -- absolutely top notch team.

Cheers,
DJM
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks DJM, I've since upgraded to a 2010 Cayman S, and may well add the LN deep sump. I've also seen quite high transmission temps during track days. May be adding a transmission cooler also.
 

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Thanks DJM, I've since upgraded to a 2010 Cayman S, and may well add the LN deep sump. I've also seen quite high transmission temps during track days. May be adding a transmission cooler also.
Nice upgrade -- the 9A1 is a great motor. I have a PDK and use the BGB motorsport diff cooler which is quite effective. That Guard LSD generates quite some heat, and with the flipped orientation of the gearbox in the Cayman, the oil rushes away from the pinion under acceleration. Cooling your diff will reduce the temp of your gear stack and reduce the amount of heat that is transferred to your engine and in-turn the motor oil. Matt (at Guard) states that track driven Caymans with either 6 MT or PDK should have a diff cooler.

Cheers,
DJM
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
What were your transmission temperatures before and after the BGB cooler?
 

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What were your transmission temperatures before and after the BGB cooler?
I was not tracking trans temps directly; however, I am tapped into the CAN bus and track real time ECU data that reports engine oil and water temps. Before the BGB cooler, engine oil temps would absolutely sky rocket, even on modestly warm days. Engine oil temps would shoot up to 250...255...then I'd back off. With the BGB cool, temps still rise, but much, much slower. BGB has good data on the temp reductions -- I believe there are a number of posts here with data. Matt (at Guard) and John (BGB) know their stuff and I trust their recommendations to run a cooler. Even more so for you at elevation where cooling is more difficult.

Are you tracking your oll temp/water temp beyond the useful factory gauges?

DJM
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Are you tracking your oll temp/water temp beyond the useful factory gauges?

DJM
No, I haven't had any trouble with the Coolant since I added the third radiator. Before that it would get really hot on the pretty-printing OEM coolant guage. I monitor my transmission temperatures with a cheesy laser gun at the track. I see up wards of 275 after about 25 minutes. That is danger zone for damage.
 

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No, I haven't had any trouble with the Coolant since I added the third radiator. Before that it would get really hot on the pretty-printing OEM coolant guage. I monitor my transmission temperatures with a cheesy laser gun at the track. I see up wards of 275 after about 25 minutes. That is danger zone for damage.
'pretty-printing' OEM gauge -- excellent description. It is a bit of a hassle to tap the CAN bus to get the ECU data, but I am glad I've done so. Very interesting to see the real temps.

I'll need to invest in one of those cheesy laser guns -- very interested to see how hot the PDK gets. I do get the diff fluid changed fairly often and PDK fluid will be changed soon as well.

Curious: where do you measure the temp on the gearbox?

DJM
 

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Another option for a sump, not deep but a reasonably priced nice setup is FVD Motorsport's. Also, switch the oil returns to the old 996 swirl pots. They help with defoaming the oil before it's returned to the sump. There are references on this site about those.
 

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For 987.1 motors, LN deep sump (10 1/2 qts) all the way, especially with a skid plate to protect the important parts. This sump comes with a windage plate, which is the key, as it keeps 2 qts of oil sandwiched between the base of the sump and the windage plate. The return pots as straight 997 as LN believes the best way to prevent oil collecting in the heads is to make sure it has a free return and lets the windage plate take out the bubbles. This system works great, but you will need the Porsche Motorsports AOS as the plate has 8 and 1/2 qts minus whats in the head to slosh up the side of the sump walls. I know as a slalom autocross did the trick to oil down my OEM AOS. It was salvageable, but I have ordered the Motorsports version to prevent future oil fog banks. LN also specificies Driven/Joe Gibbs DT40 oil due to its ability to not foam in the heads.

The difference between FVD Motorsports sump and LN's is the system that LN provides. I would think without the windage plate in the FVD pan, a lot of oil slosh on the side walls is possible. I spent some time taking to LN before I made my decision. They look at each part of the system including head foam, swirl pots, windage tray, deep sump, X-51 center section with rubber flappers and the BULT deep (2 qts) sump seemed to me to be the best solution to protect my motor from oil starvation and cool the oil as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
where do you measure the temp on the gearbox?
I scanned the whole thing. Easy with the laser temp gun. I don't remember where it was hottest. Been a year since Ive been at the track with the Cayman.
 
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