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Next Porsche: 2022 992 GT3
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Discussion Starter #21
You have a brand new Carrera (with European delivery) and very new Boxster (also with European delivery), forgive me but money doesn't seem to be the problem, FWIW I would not hesitate to have the dealer replace the battery with the correct OEM model and configure it with the PIWIS...

Oh, I just noticed under your name: "Next Porsche: 2022 Macan"...

Are all of the variables and angst worth it for a couple of hundred dollars?
Fair comment and I understand where you are coming from. You are correct, money is not the problem. Psychologically, I just can't pay a dealer $500 to swap out a battery when I can do it myself in 30 minutes. I started out with $20 bucks in my pocket so I really value a buck. I still pick up pennies off the ground when I see them to my wife's embarrassment. A Penny earned is a Penny saved kinda thing. I paid cash for my two Porsches and retired last year at age 51. Doing things like swapping out my own battery got me there. :) So for me, the angst is definitely worth it in the long run.
 

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Of course the dealer wants to run piwis to put a battery in and if you cut power to the car it might be a good idea. If you keep power to the car and replace with like kind battery, then the car will not know that anything ever happened.
 

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So, to be specific, the Ctek porsche battery maintainer plugged into the cigarette lighter supplies enough power to the car that an OEM battery change can be performed without going to a dealer and having them run PIWIS? Thanks in advance. Lou
 

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I had my 15' CGTS in at the dealer for some warranty work back in March and informed them that the start/stop feature no longer works. They called me later and said my battery was low on voltage and that they replaced it under warranty.
 

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Of course the dealer wants to run piwis to put a battery in and if you cut power to the car it might be a good idea. If you keep power to the car and replace with like kind battery, then the car will not know that anything ever happened.
I apologize for questioning your posting but your wording suggests that this is conjecture and not based on evidence. It seems reasonable to believe as I cannot imagine any kind of communication going on between the car and the battery other than simply power. It sounds easy enough to use the jumper in the fuse panel to continue to power the car while you swap out the battery. I just don't want to be the poor sucker who finds out that it doesn't work. I would love to hear from someone who has done this already. I've been using the CTEK to fully charge my battery but the *** feature stops working after only a couple of days so its a bit annoying to charge this frequently. Thanks in advance.
 

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I changed my battery earlier this year, it was 4.5 years old. I simply went to battery store got new battery R&R'd old battery with new and did not have charger hooked up. No issues due to not running PWIS. This is not a big deal.
 

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Just to add another data point I just replaced the battery in our 2013. Connected the CTEK but didn't think it through (should have used the interior power point but I didn't purchase the connector) and it came disconnected during the swap. Put in the new battery. Had to reset the windows as expected. Could not reset the seat memory. Took it to the dealer and they had to reset the system to get it to work. SA said that it was very unusual for that to happen. Thankfully it only took ~15 minutes and no cost.
 

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If the amp-hour rating changes the Auto stop/start function will be affected if it isn't updated in the Gateway section of the PIWIS. Also, if power is lost, it appears to me that the default battery type is reset to Lead-Acid (or wet) and AGM must be set. If power is lost several other things, none that require a PIWIS, have to be performed. Details in post #107 of my Boxster mod thread : https://www.planet-9.com/981-cayman-and-boxster-modifications/215321-voyager6s-boxster-mod-thread-post2052401.html#post2052401

One additional detail not in post 107: when doing the PIWIS Change Battery function, all four items must be entered to get the PIWIS to allow you to write the updated data. Since I purchased a larger aftermarket battery, I reused the serial number off the failed original Porsche battery and set AGM and amp hours. The part number required might have to match the Amp hour rating entered, so I looked up the different batteries in PET and gave the formula in Post 107 to obtain a matching Porsche battery part number. Then and only then was I able to complete the battery change function.

Voyager6
 

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Great helpful thread. I DIY replaced my stock nearly 5 year old 70AH battery with a Porsche part from North Scottsdale today. Out the door with tax about $390. No core charge, but they took my old battery for free! Batteries Plus has an AGM reputed to fit for $215. It is a 94AH. Suncoast will sell you the Porsche part with no returns possible for $295 plus shipping. The discussion about AH and weight considerations helped with my decision and I have to admit I like seeing Porsche on all the parts, not Duracell.

I tried to connect my trickle charger to the battery terminals, but should have taken more time as the + side slipped so I lost power. I only had to reprogram the clock and date, but did lose my fuel mileage record. No issues with tire pressure monitor or radio settings. My steering wheel has only one button and is all black as it should be, so no issues there. Haven't checked if the PDLS works, but why would it not? The Auto Start/Stop begin working right away. I run sport all the time for the lower oil temperature and better sound so really don't care about the Auto S/S.

Thanks for all the input here.
 

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Great helpful thread. I DIY replaced my stock nearly 5 year old 70AH battery with a Porsche part from North Scottsdale today. Out the door with tax about $390. No core charge, but they took my old battery for free! Batteries Plus has an AGM reputed to fit for $215. It is a 94AH. Suncoast will sell you the Porsche part with no returns possible for $295 plus shipping. The discussion about AH and weight considerations helped with my decision and I have to admit I like seeing Porsche on all the parts, not Duracell.

I tried to connect my trickle charger to the battery terminals, but should have taken more time as the + side slipped so I lost power. I only had to reprogram the clock and date, but did lose my fuel mileage record. No issues with tire pressure monitor or radio settings. My steering wheel has only one button and is all black as it should be, so no issues there. Haven't checked if the PDLS works, but why would it not? The Auto Start/Stop begin working right away. I run sport all the time for the lower oil temperature and better sound so really don't care about the Auto S/S.

Thanks for all the input here.
Wouldn't it be easier to just plug the trickle charger into the outlet rather than trying to clamp directly onto the terminals, or will that not work? I'm going to be doing this myself soon and have the Ctek maintainer and have read that the car won't lose power as long as it stays connected during the swap.
 

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If the amp-hour rating changes the Auto stop/start function will be affected if it isn't updated in the Gateway section of the PIWIS. Also, if power is lost, it appears to me that the default battery type is reset to Lead-Acid (or wet) and AGM must be set.
Thanks for the info! I'll have to find a shop with PIWIS here in town that can help me with entering the 4 items for the new battery.
 

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I don't have a CTEK. The BatteryMINder that used for other vehicles and a trailer was put to work. Should have gone with a full 2 amp charger as this little guy didn't provide enough power anyway. If you have a CTEK, use it. If not I would use terminal connectors attached to the screws on the battery terminal connections. BTW, the battery connectections are awesome as are the aluminum nuts holding the battery in place. I love Porsche Design!
 

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Just to add another data point I just replaced the battery in our 2013. Connected the CTEK but didn't think it through (should have used the interior power point but I didn't purchase the connector) and it came disconnected during the swap. Put in the new battery. Had to reset the windows as expected. Could not reset the seat memory. Took it to the dealer and they had to reset the system to get it to work. SA said that it was very unusual for that to happen. Thankfully it only took ~15 minutes and no cost.
Hello knowledgeable gang.-
So, I've read that some people temporarily use a CTEK or some other 12V power source to keep key circuits alive while the battery is swapped. The risk of doing it by connecting something in parallel at the battery end or via the CTEK on the center console plug, is the risk of messing or tripping any of the cables and loosing all settings... I've also learned elsewhere that some people have used the OBD-II port to connect the alternate power (battery or jumper set); Has anybody done so on the 981? Or does anyone know if this could cause other problems? The ODB-2 pin-out on this interface should be pretty standard, but wonder if Porsche 'tweaks' it in any way... and learn the hard way!

Thanks.
 

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Replaced my 2014 Cayman S battery today with a Porsche battery & had no issues. Only thing I did was reset the windows, although I did not notice any issues with them after the replacement.
 

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I replaced the OEM battery with a Platinum EverStart AGM H7 from WalMart (manufactured by Johnson Controls). I had my CTEK charger connected through the 12v center console socket (part of the smokers package). No problem with the memory; no resets of windows or stability control required. There’s a great YouTube of a battery change on a 2014 981 Cayman. One difference is that the screws for my tire inflator tray were T-20; the video shows screws that were T-30. My new battery is longer that the OEM battery; good that the battery tray has three bolt holes for the battery retainer clamp. Standing in the frunk makes it easier to remove and replace the battery.
 

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I had a great deal on an entire battery kit - lithium ion by Antigravity - so I had an Indy do it on my Spyder.

All I know is the battery doesn't skip a beat with months of down time in the Spyder and I shaved probably around 30 lbs from the car. Price was not ridiculous either like Porsche wants for their li-ion batt.
 

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I've read lots of good stuff about the Antigravity RS-30 on Rennlist, but their website says they are out of stock. Anyone know the story on that? Maybe they are selling great and they can't keep up, or maybe they have a problem and paused manufacturing. I'm in the market for a new battery, so it's either a replacement AGM or a good Lithium. I've got 5 years on a Lithium battery in my motorcycle and its been great...

Tim
 

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I've read lots of good stuff about the Antigravity RS-30 on Rennlist, but their website says they are out of stock. Anyone know the story on that? Maybe they are selling great and they can't keep up, or maybe they have a problem and paused manufacturing. I'm in the market for a new battery, so it's either a replacement AGM or a good Lithium. I've got 5 years on a Lithium battery in my motorcycle and its been great...

Tim

Dunno. Worth an email to the manufacturer for sure. Their product is solid in my experience.
 
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