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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Winter Car Care Tips - Salt Removal Wash

Helpful Winter Tips

  • Keeping your vehicle as clean as possible during the winter will go a long way to cut down the damage done by salt and sand.
  • Take your vehicle to the car wash as often as possible. If you can get to your undercarriage as well that would be a plus.
  • Make sure to protect your car with your favorite wax or sealant.

Make sure the car is completely dry
  • Carefully dry the edges of the doors inside and out, including the undersides of door handles, all hinges, plus the hood and trunk edges. This helps keep them from freezing shut.
  • Use a good quality spray protectant on all exterior rubber or vinyl surfaces. It may be best to spray they applicator you are using instead of spraying the product directly onto the surface. This will avoid any overspray onto the paint.

This BMW 435 X Drive receives a salt removal wash and protect.

Salt Removal - Wash and Protect



Our special pre-soak was designed to chemically remove the majority of the salt and road grime off the paint, with our touch less approach we are preserving the condition of the paint.



After shot


Interior Mats - Salt Removal - just as important make sure your interior is free and clear of salt as it will cause long term damage to your interior bits and pieces.

Before


After
 

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PY:

Great job on those mats!

I have a good soft-cloth car wash about 2 miles from my house. I can go there in creepy weather, run the car through without getting out...takes about 20 minutes door to door and that includes filling up at the gas station next door to the car wash. Doesn't seem to have damaged the paint at all in the 5 years I've been running it through there. It's $8 to run the car through the "Super Protectant" cycle. This shoots the underbody and puts some extra lubricating soapy stuff on the paint before it hits the spinning soft-cloth things. I don't know if it helps, but I've looked for scratch marks on the paint when it's been washed and can't find any. I run straight home and put it in the garage before it has time to freeze, then towel out the nooks and crannies myself. I have Arctic Silver and it's very forgiving.

I use Ultima Paint Guard Plus, which is a synthetic clear-coat protectant every Fall and Spring on it. It's applied very sparingly to the applicator and just gently spread onto the clear-coat. Dries in an hour and then can be buffed. Leaves a nice, hard shine for a long time. For a 9 year old car, it looks pretty great and is very easy to keep. I doubt this product would be right for a black or dark colored car. That's a whole different situation, especially if one is looking or concours results. I'm not.

I have Porsche all-weather mats for my black interior. I used carpeted mats for a few months and got really tired of the "almost clean except for a few seeds, leaves etc." look and found myself constantly picking at these things. I know this is your business, but it's not mine and I want to get on with life and not obsess over my things. Yes, I want them to last. No, I don't care if I have the cleanest Porsche at the club meeting.

I have Bilstein Damptronics. If you have coil-overs of any kind, it's a good idea to spray the outside threads with some good penetrating wax-oil once a month or so. The threaded strut bodies are aluminum and they will corrode and fuse to the spring perches if you don't keeping threads lubed. Aside from that, the iron brake discs and the threads for the sway bars, my car has been rust-free underneath for a long time.

It's a good idea to remove the wheels and loosen the philips head screws (may be Torx head on later Caymans?) that hold the rotors to the hubs (there are two per wheel on Gen 1). These things corrode and get frozen pretty commonly and it's a big job if the dealer has to drill them out and replace them. As a precaution, I'd lube the screws the night before with penetrating oil (WD40, LPS1 or similar) and bang on the back of the screwdriver (use an old one) while it's mated to the screw with a hammer before trying too hard to turn corroded screws. A couple firm hammer blows can knock frozen threads loose. In combo with penetrating oil, that usually works. If you're just doing prevention, no need to pull the rotors, just remove the screw, clean it up, put a little anti-seize or lok-tite on it and replace. If they're really bad, replace them. Do one screw at a time and replace. Then, put the wheel back on and torque the lug bolts down.

I'm fortunate enough to have a heated garage and a frame-lift, so doing stuff like this is a bit easier for me. These rust items should be attended to now and then to prevent bad things from happening. There are few other vulnerable places on these Caymans. They seem to be very well built.

When you run the car 1st time after a good wash, the brake discs make terrible noises, but it goes away as the surfaces get rubbed free of surface rust by the pads. True of any car, but my Gen 1 Cayman makes the loudest rotor scraping noises of any car I've owned. It doesn't hurt a thing.

:cheers:
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
our presoak is done so we don't "touch" the car as much.

that being said we do a traditional wash after we remove 70% plus of the salt and grime.

Presoak is a combo of

http://www.detailersdomain.com/P21S-Total-Auto-Wash-5-Liter_p_731.html"]P21S Total Auto Wash
http://www.detailersdomain.com/Sonax-Fallout-Cleaner_p_1108.html"]Sonax Fall Out Remover

Then a final foaming with http://www.detailersdomain.com/Auto...ro-5-Liter_p_929.html"]Auto Finesse Avalanche if your foam gun/cannon.

After a good spray wax/sealant - for this service at the shop we use http://www.detailersdomain.com/Sona...ml_p_890.html"]Sonax Brilliant Shine Detailer
 

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I plan on driving my car all year round, are there any serious issues if I spray the under carriage after driving it? Or is it preferred I wait till the car cools down?
 

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PY:
When you run the car 1st time after a good wash, the brake discs make terrible noises, but it goes away as the surfaces get rubbed free of surface rust by the pads. True of any car, but my Gen 1 Cayman makes the loudest rotor scraping noises of any car I've owned. It doesn't hurt a thing.

:cheers:
To avoid that, you can look at driving your car for a few mins after washing and heat up your brakes.
 
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