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Blue:

Yes, I've looked at the underside of my car. It's mostly plastic panels and the metal bits seem to be well treated with layers of zinc and other nice anti-corrosives. The metal parts that aren't exhaust parts will be sprayed with Waxoil when I install my winters. I'll drive the car every Tuesday night and on most weekends all year long unless the snow is higher than the ground clearance.

My car goes to good soft cloth car washes (gasp!) and is right now waiting for me at Economy Parking at O'hare. (OMFG!) It has a FRONT LICENSE PLATE mounted on a STOCK Porsche front license mount. I mounted it myself because the car came from Georgia. I DRILLED the two holes in the nose to fasten the mount. (Passing out soon!).

It's not all bad news. It gets stored in a climate controlled dry garage when I'm not abusing it. It gets oil changes at 10 K or less. Brake fluid changes every spring and maybe once more during the season, all other fluids changed at least bi-anually.

If salt is really disgusting, I'll wait it out and drive the Audi. If I have to replace a couple rusted bits someday, so be it. If the front of the car needs to be resprayed someday, it'll just get resprayed. I've been through the bit where I protect the nose and lower hood of a car with plastic only to have the upper hood bashed with a stone from a truck. I'll just deal with it if something happens.

One thing that concerns me is the windshield. It is kind of soft and seems to get little imperfections easily. They are building up and I know a new one is in my future. I imagine this is not cheap because the radio antenna is in the windshield. :beer:

I purposely bought a used CS because I wanted to track it and to DRIVE it. I'm not going to run it into the ground but I'm going to treat it like a good car. That's what it is.

You will likely win the concourse, but I'll be driving mine cross country and sliding it around in the snow and having a ball with it. :dance:

When you hit 30,000 miles, if you keep yours that long, mine will likely have 150,000 and a bit more patina but I won't love it any less. I'll have explored every inch of the thing, replaced all sorts of things like hoses and belts and, yes, maybe a corroded suspension piece or a worn out motor mount.

I've had precious cars before. I prefer semi-precious cars.

:cheers:
I love your attitude. I don't think I could do it myself, but kudos to you.:cheers:
 

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Wow, I certainly did not intend to set up this firestorm ;). Both methods have their benefits. If I had another car, I would probably drive my boxer less in the winter. Since I do not, I have no option but to drive the boxer year around (but with great excitement). I am looking forward to driving it in the snow, it should be lots of fun. After all, porsche engineers the car to perform in winter and it is thoroughly tested in the Scandinavian testing grounds. I just won't take her out if there is too much snow on the ground so that my front dam acts as a plow..
 

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^^^^ Ah, the horror, the horror! :hilarious:

There's no right or wrong answer here and I'm glad to see the mature lighthearted banter going back and forth.

I sorta take the middle road in this. While I would love to have a garage, I don't, so it sits under the cover outside. At 15,000 miles when I changed the exhaust out, the flange nuts were so rusted they flaked off like an Outback blooming onion appetizer.

My rear rotors now have a permanent rust stain that won't come off even after two track sessions. I'm sure that in a few more years, my exhaust hangers will rust off just like on my Audi after 40,000 miles.

Ack, I'm going off topic now!
Pete:

Agree...just bantering...not that maturely even...

Garages are GOOD! My car is holding up pretty well. BTW, this will make you nuts. When I store mine, it goes on a LIFT and stays up in the air. I don't even flat-spot my tires. No need to go through all the winter storage malarky because putting my car in there is like putting it on a showroom floor....climate controlled....:dance: Oh yeah, baby! If I get it into the snow, it just melts off and is bone dry next time I want to drive. Booya!

I bought the garage before I got my first nice car. My old garage was knocked down. It was worse than parking outside. In spring, water would come up the cracks in the floor and everything in there, tools, cars, everything would rust like it was in a salt bath test. My cars last A LOT longer since I got the garage. I had to store one under a cover while this was being built and it worked OK but collected a lot of dirt. I had one of those multi-layer things with the clear window for rear license plate...for my E36 M3. They work, but they're sure not ideal.

As I said, a few replacement bits will make the car new again. I plan on replacing my driver's side kick panels someday. They're pretty scuffed up. I did it all. The car looked brand new when I bought it...16,000 miles on it then. I don't know how those guys can detail cars so well. Amazing.

:cheers:
 

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Wow, I certainly did not intend to set up this firestorm ;). Both methods have their benefits. If I had another car, I would probably drive my boxer less in the winter. Since I do not, I have no option but to drive the boxer year around (but with great excitement). I am looking forward to driving it in the snow, it should be lots of fun. After all, porsche engineers the car to perform in winter and it is thoroughly tested in the Scandinavian testing grounds. I just won't take her out if there is too much snow on the ground so that my front dam acts as a plow..
I agree that they're engineered to be year-round transportation, but I think that most who garage their cars do so because of the corrosion caused by the salt and/or chemicals used to melt the snow/ice on public roads.

Not to mention the increased threat of poor drivers with inappropriate tires sliding into you. :eek:
 

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Wow, I certainly did not intend to set up this firestorm ;). Both methods have their benefits. If I had another car, I would probably drive my boxer less in the winter. Since I do not, I have no option but to drive the boxer year around (but with great excitement). I am looking forward to driving it in the snow, it should be lots of fun. After all, porsche engineers the car to perform in winter and it is thoroughly tested in the Scandinavian testing grounds. I just won't take her out if there is too much snow on the ground so that my front dam acts as a plow..
Tango:

These cars are a ball to drive in winter...with winter tires. The weight distribution really make them fun. Turn off the PSM and have some fun. :drivingskid: I've had snow go over top of my front end a couple times. OK for powder but not the crunchy, chunky stuff. Ouch!!!
 

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I agree that they're engineered to be year-round transportation, but I think that most who garage their cars do so because of the corrosion caused by the salt and/or chemicals used to melt the snow/ice on public roads.

Not to mention the increased threat of poor drivers with inappropriate tires sliding into you. :eek:
My experience with poor drivers is that they're poorer when the weather is perfect and they take the conditions for granted. When it's bad out, you can spot the people who don't know what they're doing. Usually they have wide summer tires on their cars and are driving too slow and are terrified. I just give them lots of room and am patient. When it's time to go, I go.

My CS is not an AWD tank in the snow, but it's very controllable with Pirelli W 240's. Don't by "ice"tires unless you really, really need them because they sacrifice some fun factor and noise for more ultimate snow grip. They're for deep snow all the time and the car won't be any fun on dry roads.

Certain Blizzaks are a real drag. The Sport Blizzak is the only one to buy...Their tire types are kind of confusing.

Michelin: Alpin PA3s are great. Alpin X-ice are too much tread and will be squirmy by comparison.

With Dunlop, the one most people need is SP Winter Sport 3D, not Graspic DS-3.

Pirelli: 210, 240 or 270 (depending on tire size) Sottozero is good, Winter Carving Edge and Winter Carving are too much "snow tire" and not enough "sporty winter tire".

If you live in the mountains and have a steep drive, well that's different. Studded or studable tires are not too much, but you really ought to just get a Jeep or an Audi or Subaru Forester.
 

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My experience with poor drivers is that they're poorer when the weather is perfect and they take the conditions for granted. When it's bad out, you can spot the people who don't know what they're doing. Usually they have wide summer tires on their cars and are driving too slow and are terrified. I just give them lots of room and am patient. When it's time to go, I go.
I spent most of my driving life in the New England region and on a weekend drive to NH for some skiing I'd need two hands to count the number of SUVs that needed to be uprighted or pulled from a ditch. Maybe the 2WD guys with summer tires were cautious enough to avoid this, but I'm more afraid of the 4WD crossover folks with all seasons who think their cars are impervious to the weather conditions.
 

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I spent most of my driving life in the New England region and on a weekend drive to NH for some skiing I'd need two hands to count the number of SUVs that needed to be uprighted or pulled from a ditch. Maybe the 2WD guys with summer tires were cautious enough to avoid this, but I'm more afraid of the 4WD crossover folks with all seasons who think their cars are impervious to the weather conditions.
Yeah, we get those guys too. Up in N. Wisconsin, you see these guys with the AWD pickups hauling their "sleds" at 90+ through blizzards on the big roads. Chlorine for the gene pool... just stay out of the way.
 

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Sigh, my day is coming too. Prolly not for another month though.

Unfortunately, here in PA, GEICO they told me I'd have to turn the plates in to get any sort of winter storage discount on my auto insurance.
I'm in Bucks County, Pa and checked with my Allstate guy since my car is going away this weekend for a variety of reasons and he is able to drop it down to just comprehensive while keeping the tags and registered. I'm looking at save a tidy sum. PM me if you want his contact info.
 

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When you hit 30,000 miles, if you keep yours that long, mine will likely have 150,000 and a bit more patina but I won't love it any less. I'll have explored every inch of the thing, replaced all sorts of things like hoses and belts and, yes, maybe a corroded suspension piece or a worn out motor mount.

I've had precious cars before. I prefer semi-precious cars.

:cheers:
I think you've misinterpreted my point of view. I drive mine too, just not in the salt (or those lovely little rocks they call "sand" around here, thrown on the roads for traction). I will lock it up for the winter, largely, but I still manage to put about 9K miles per year on it. Since I have 20K miles on it now, you only have a year or so to reach 150K. Will you? :)
 

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Do you really need to keep the shifter in neutral? I stored my vette for years and it was always in gear and I had no problems. Also if you want something to absorb the moisture, you can use Kitty Litter it's cheaper.
 

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My experience with poor drivers is that they're poorer when the weather is perfect and they take the conditions for granted. When it's bad out, you can spot the people who don't know what they're doing. Usually they have wide summer tires on their cars and are driving too slow and are terrified. I just give them lots of room and am patient. When it's time to go, I go.

My CS is not an AWD tank in the snow, but it's very controllable with Pirelli W 240's. Don't by "ice"tires unless you really, really need them because they sacrifice some fun factor and noise for more ultimate snow grip. They're for deep snow all the time and the car won't be any fun on dry roads.

Certain Blizzaks are a real drag. The Sport Blizzak is the only one to buy...Their tire types are kind of confusing.

Michelin: Alpin PA3s are great. Alpin X-ice are too much tread and will be squirmy by comparison.

With Dunlop, the one most people need is SP Winter Sport 3D, not Graspic DS-3.

Pirelli: 210, 240 or 270 (depending on tire size) Sottozero is good, Winter Carving Edge and Winter Carving are too much "snow tire" and not enough "sporty winter tire".

If you live in the mountains and have a steep drive, well that's different. Studded or studable tires are not too much, but you really ought to just get a Jeep or an Audi or Subaru Forester.
I just bought new set of OEM Cayman 18 inch wheels and PA2-N2. they should arrive today. I'll mount them over the weekend to give them a few hundred miles to get the mold relese compound off before it starts getting really cold. it should be a good time this winter :banana:

I also have to give the car it's pre-winter detail...heidi (yes, that's her name ;)) needs it badly. I'll take some pics while I'm at it (come to think of it, I don't think I have taken pics of her yet).
 

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If you live in the mountains and have a steep drive, well that's different. Studded or studable tires are not too much, but you really ought to just get a Jeep or an Audi or Subaru Forester.
Sounds like me!;)
 

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Sigh, my day is coming too. Prolly not for another month though.

Unfortunately, here in PA, GEICO they told me I'd have to turn the plates in to get any sort of winter storage discount on my auto insurance.
Check with other insurance. I'm in PA with Nationwide and do NOT have to send my plate in.
 

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I've been with USAA forever and have always had to turn in my plates if I wanted to eliminate coverage over the winter and not have the state troopers come and get me. This is a New York thing. However, starting later this year, USAA will have some sort of plan that allows significant reduction in insurance cost and still keeps you out of trouble with the state DMV. I'll find out what the deal is next Fall.
 

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How do you put a PDK car out-of-gear for storage as suggested in the original post, and is it necessary to do so?

The PDK equipped Caymans cannot go into Neutral with the keys out.
 

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My method:

Start and idle
Rev a bit, holding at diff rpms for a bit
Engage clucth and move forward and reverse
Use brakes
Position in new spot on ground - tires
 

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Looking at the weather forcast, we are done for a while with convertable weather here in north east Ohio so with a heavy heart I put away my Boxster S for winter storage this past weekend. I did all of the same things I did last year to prep, and it seemed to work out well as last spring the car was ready to go as soon as the weather turned. I am just curious if anyone here as any further tips for things that should be done for a 6 month storage? Below are the steps I took:

1. Washed car very well including inside of rims, wipe down & vac interior
2. Drove car to gas station to fill up - to store with full tank as well as dry off brake disks - then wipe down wheels again to remove the rust that came off the brakes.
3. Clay the car down and put a fresh coat of wax - car will be road ready once the cover comes back off
4. Fuel stabilizer in tank
5. over inflate tires to 45psi
6. park car out of gear w/o parking break on, blocks on one wheel to prevent movement
7. 1 lb sta dry bags in passanger compartment and in each trunk to prevent moisture
8. plug in battery maintainer to cig lighter, crack window to run cord.
9. put on indoor car cover
10. worry that you forgot to do something

I also had an oil change last weekend at the local dealer. Some argue fresh oil prior to storage, some say fresh oil just after bringing out...

For those that store, don't forget to contact your insurance agent as well. This will save you hundreds on your auto insurance (now I am sounding like a Geico commercial). Seriously though, the only insurance you should need to maintain while in storage is comprehensive, everything else could be removed. This should bring your 6 month premium to around $25-$40.

Anyone have anything that I missed?
I over inflate my tires front and rear 10 psi over what is required. Change the oil. Fill the tank using a fuel stabilizer. 2 bars of Irish spring soap inside the car to keep away the mice I leave the car in reverse. No parking brake. Battery tender. Windows open slightly. cover exhaust to prevent rodents from entering same. DO NOT START CAR UNTIL YOU PLAN TO USE IT DURING THE SPRING. I recommend taking off all insurance except comprehensive as you won't be driving your car. If there is a fire your car will be covered. Cheers to all.
 

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This site seems very complete "How and why you should Winterize Your Porsche Boxster".

Table of Contents
Why Winterize Your Porsche Boxster?
Safeguard Your Boxster from Corrosive Road Salt
Ensure Easy Continuity to the Next Driving Season
Protect your Investment
How to Winterize Your Porsche Boxster
1) Prepare Your Garage
2) Thoroughly Clean Your Wheels & Rims
3) Wash Your Porsche Inside & Out
4) Make sure to clean and condition all your car’s interior leather.
5) Condition all Rubber and Plastic Items
6) Change Your Engine Oil and Filter before you Winterize Your Porsche Boxster
7) Top Off All Fluids
8) Ensure minimum Coolant Protection Coverage
9) Set Tire Pressure
10) Gas
11) Place Carpet Tiles Under Tires
12) Use a Fuel Additive or Stabilizer
13) Rodent Proof Your Boxster During Storage
14) Keep it Dry
15) Do Not Engage the Parking Brake When you Winterize Your Porsche Boxster
16) Install a Battery Maintainer
17) Wiper Blades
18) Windows
19) Cover
20) Insurance while you Winterize Your Porsche Boxster
21) Do Not Start your Car, Wait until Spring
Other Articles of Interest
Car Storage FAQ

-Callahan-
 
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