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Discussion Starter #1
Yes I've read every thread on this topic

Here's my issue: 2005 987s with dead battery (trickle charger was on it but the damn outlet tripped).

Key now locked in ignition
Tried:
  • Fuse box trick w75 amp jumper box. Nothing. Tried frunk release switch on doorside as well as key fob.
  • Tried removing key using little rod in fuse box. Ain't working
  • Opened both fenders and can't find wire. On driver side looks like the rubber grommet in the firewall is there but no cable.
  • I have no idea what to do next and I'm a few mins short of lighting the car on fire out of spite
Any ideas?
 

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I had the same problem on my 2012 Cayman R recently. On that car, there is a release wire up inside the front left wheel well. It comes out of the frame high up and in front of the wheel well, and has a small nub at its end to grab onto with a pair of pliers. It's a thin wire cable, similar in thickness to a bicycle brake cable. It does exit the frame through a rubber grommet. If the grommet you refer to is located in the same place as in the attached photo, you may be out of luck.

If you do locate the wire, note that once I found it, I really had to tug hard on it to get it to release. Don't be afraid to use some force. But if you do locate yours, it should open your frunk.

Good luck!

IMG_0597.jpg
 

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Do you have a spare battery kicking around (or a car you can pull up close to yours)? I seem to remember another post here where a booster box wasn't sufficient. Also, at least on mine (which is a 987.2) you need to open the frunk with the key fob by holding the button for a couple of seconds. The inside switch will not work when using the spare battery method. I would continue to try the fuse box method. Make sure you get a good ground.
 

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I assume you have the trickle charger turned back on? It may take a few hours but you may be able to bring your battery back from the dead with the trickle charger.
 

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How long did you leave the jumper connected? Like zuch I think you may need more juice to flow in there. Your battery may be so dead that it sucked most of the current with the jumper briefly attached.
 

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Make sure you are getting a good ground connection when you try the fuse box method. I remember the first time I tried that method it didn't work because I wasn't getting a good ground connection where the owner's manual suggested. I used the chrome door latch instead. If you are getting a good connection you should hear a relay pull in as soon as you connect the positive lead to the pullout connection in the fuse box. In order for you to hear the relay it has to be fairly quiet and you need to lean your head in close to the fuse box. That relay is the emergency start relay that supplies temporary power to one of the control modules so you can open the frunk.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Do you have a spare battery kicking around (or a car you can pull up close to yours)? I seem to remember another post here where a booster box wasn't sufficient. Also, at least on mine (which is a 987.2) you need to open the frunk with the key fob by holding the button for a couple of seconds. The inside switch will not work when using the spare battery method. I would continue to try the fuse box method. Make sure you get a good ground.
I assume you have the trickle charger turned back on? It may take a few hours but you may be able to bring your battery back from the dead with the trickle charger.
I tried the key fob. No go (someone suggested it's because my key is stuck In the ignition?). I also previously had the trickle charger on the cigarette lighter for more than 24 hours with no success. I might just buy a new battery at this point.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
How long did you leave the jumper connected? Like zuch I think you may need more juice to flow in there. Your battery may be so dead that it sucked most of the current with the jumper briefly attached.
15mins on the 75amp "jump start" setting. Should I try longer? Battery is dead as hell it seems.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Make sure you are getting a good ground connection when you try the fuse box method. I remember the first time I tried that method it didn't work because I wasn't getting a good ground connection where the owner's manual suggested. I used the chrome door latch instead. If you are getting a good connection you should hear a relay pull in as soon as you connect the positive lead to the pullout connection in the fuse box. In order for you to hear the relay it has to be fairly quiet and you need to lean your head in close to the fuse box. That relay is the emergency start relay that supplies temporary power to one of the control modules so you can open the frunk.
I used the chrome door latch thing. Didn't hear anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Update: used a stronger/newer jump box and it worked!!!! I think battery is dead as I drove around for 15 mins and couldn't get the ignition to crank again. Going to sit it on trickle charger overnight and see if maybe it'll be happy tomorrow. If not, new battery time.
 

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Hey don't mean to be the close the barn after the last horse escapes guy but anyone else? Leave the frunk on one click, it doesn't impact the car cover fit whatsoever and it 100% prevents this calamity every time.
 

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Hey don't mean to be the close the barn after the last horse escapes guy but anyone else? Leave the frunk on one click, it doesn't impact the car cover fit whatsoever and it 100% prevents this calamity every time.
You're 100% right. I've learned my lesson
 

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A put a cut off piece of a hockey stick (carbon fiber of course) through the u-shaped frunk bracket so even if somebody leans on the frunk, it isn't going to lock.
 

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Hey don't mean to be the close the barn after the last horse escapes guy but anyone else? Leave the frunk on one click, it doesn't impact the car cover fit whatsoever and it 100% prevents this calamity every time.
My car is garaged, and the last part of my shutdown routine is opening the frunk - one click.
 

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I just recenty had my battery go completely dead, I have only been driving about once every 7-10 days, the car was completely dead no lights no horn nothing, I had to use the fuse panel jump it would only pop the hood from the key, I am using a battery tender from now on in the winter, I also disconnected the wire that goes to the light under the hood, since my tender plugs into my battery.
 

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My car is garaged, and the last part of my shutdown routine is opening the frunk - one click.
My car was garaged as well, the last part of my routine was to connect the CTEK charger, every time whether it was for a few hours or many days...
 

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Guess the problem was an older battery that can't go 7-10 without a charger.
If it was totally dead it's either a bad battery that needs to be replaced or an electrical drain.
 
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