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981 Oil Change With Pics

197K views 429 replies 100 participants last post by  bigmoguls  
#1 · (Edited)
Hi everyone. Thought I would create a thread on how to change your oil since there isn't a detailed one on the 981 sub forums. Please keep the thread on topic.

What you'll need

- Porsche Oil Filter Kit 9A110722400 (Includes oil filter element, filter cover O-ring, and crush washer for drain plug. I purchased mine at Suncoast. It happens to be the same kit as the 987.2.

- Mobil 1 0-40 oil. i purchased mine at Walmart in 2 5 quart jugs. Seems to be the best price at the moment.

- 8mm Allen wrench (torque specs- 37 ft-lbs drain plug, 19 ft-lbs oil filter cover...thanks RSchwerer)

- Oil filter wrench. I used the universal one from Sears with a 12" extension

- Everything else such as ramps/stands drain pan shop towels and a ziplock bag to wrap around the filter cover so oil doesn't spill everywhere when you remove the cover
 
#3 · (Edited)
Here is the drain plug. Note the blue dot. It was pointing straight back to the exhaust before I loosened it. See picture above. I was not able to get it to tighten to the same position when I replaced it. It felt really tight at a 10 O'clock position if you reference the initial postition to 12 O'clock. Hope that makes sense.

Note the crush washer is stuck to the drain plug bolt. It popped of with very little effort.
 
#4 · (Edited)
Picture 1-I used a craftsman adjustable oil filter remover with a 12" wobble extension and it worked really well.

Once I got the oil filter cover loose, I was able to place the ziplock bag (I used the ziplock bag that the new filter O-ring came in...fit perfectly) over the oil filter cover and remove the oil filter cover by hand with minimal mess.

Picture 2&3-I was able to slide my arm through the cutout on the left. I have skinny arms so YMMV. Don't get your arm stuck.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Pic 1-After I got the filter out. Cleaned up a couple of tiny drips. Ready to install the new filter

Pic 2- Oil filter cover in ziplock bag used from the filter kit O-ring. It caught most of the oil drips.

Pic3- Note the notch in the filter cover. I was able to grab the O-ring with a pair of needle nose pliers without causing any damage to the threading. I'm not sure if that's what it was made for but it made it easy to remove the O-ring.
 
#7 ·
I looked in the 987 forum and couldn't find one. That doesn't mean that one doesn't exist. The dot on the actual drain plug might be a good reference to what position to tighten it back to but i couldn't get the bolt to get that tight again. I got close to its original position.
Here:
http://www.planet-9.com/987-cayman-boxster-service-tech/65374-oil-change-after-break.html

Says "19 ft. lbs. on filter housing and 37 on plug ". Likely the same for 981 since the engine is the same. However it's not a critical thing. I never have used a torq wrench for filter or plug. Just use care and common sense. Also never had one leak. But if it did, I'd just give it another 1/4 turn.
 
#9 ·
It's nice to know this thread exists! This may sound dumb, but how high, and how did you get your car up in the air? Just enough to crawl under? Thanks for the nice thread with pics. Jon
 
#10 ·
I used rhino ramps and backed the rear tires up on them. They're about 9" tall but then you add the tire and you end up with a descent amount of space. I was able to use a crawler for the whole project I believe. Hope it helps. The height at the rear bumper was around 2 feet? Should of taken pictures of the car on the ramps.:(
 
#11 ·
Hey BlackBehr,

Nice bit of information.

Without going to my local Porsche Dealer/Parts Center do you happen to know if the new 2014 Cayman (3.4l) using the same oil filter. I searched the web and there is little if any maintenance parts listed (as yet) for the 2014 Cayman.

Thanks . . . .
 
#13 ·
after changing the oil, is can u manually rest the service interval for it?
 
#15 ·
Thanks! How much was the kit total?
 
#17 ·
So with shipping it would be around $40 I guess. Just trying to figure out financial advantages of changing oil yourself. Still not clear considering you need $300 tool.
 
#18 ·
Ok. I gotcha. It would be 36 shipped where I live. Each jug of oil cost me 22.98 at my local Walmart+ tax. So approx 50 for oil (you end up with extra...can be used if you need to add oil later) and 36 for filter kit + an hour of your time. Half that time spent letting oil drain out. So less than 100 is way better than 300 no? If you have to buy ramps and a drain pan and filter a wrench it'll still be less than 200 and those items are one time costs. Hope that helps.
 
#20 ·
So it's 86 + 300 for the durametrix tool. So about $150 if spread the tool cost over 5 years, right?
 
#19 ·
I'm sorry I didn't notice this thread sooner, can you please copy/paste the text and images into the Articles section and create an actual article there please? I can feature it in the next newsletter!

Thanks!


(PS there is a How To Tutorial on creating articles in the Articles section)
 
#21 ·
Hey K-Man. Will do it when I get back home on Sunday.




Hey Trusevich. I totally misunderstood you. I'am still going to take the car in for its recommended service intervals while its under warranty. Didn't think about the durameric since I didn't buy it or plan on buying it. Even with the cost of the Durametric I think its worthwhile. The Durametric has other functions as well so it has other uses.
 
#22 ·
Check w/ Durametric to make sure they have the software finished. I have a new Cayman S (2014) and my existing Durametric doesn't support it . . . . Yet.

I spoke to Durametric in May and they said they are working on it but didn't know the release date.
 
#23 ·
Thanks for the great write-up! I love doing stuff like this on my own and look forward to following this one day.

Just wondering, do any of you know if changing your own oil will void the warranty in anyway? Some car manufacturers are very sticky about getting maintenance done only by "approved" sources.
 
#24 ·
Thanks for the great write-up! I love doing stuff like this on my own and look forward to following this one day.

Just wondering, do any of you know if changing your own oil will void the warranty in anyway? Some car manufacturers are very sticky about getting maintenance done only by "approved" sources.

I'm not sure. I do keep all receipts for reference just in case some issues comes up in the future. I can't see how doing your own oil changes will void your warranty unless the problem is a result of the oil change.
 
#25 ·
just did mine with Rhino ramps as well, great post. I was gonna have the dealer do it, but they wanted $200+. Filter and oil cost me a little less than $100.

my biggest grip/complaint is that the oil filter is a pain in the *** to remove for the first time. None of the oil filter wrenches at advanced auto or Napa worked (lol i made 5 trips, thinking each one would be the last, I should of just bought them all at once) 74.4mm 14 flutes is difficult if not impossible to find here. I ordered the one online and after two different universal oil filter wrenches and a lot of patience, I finally loosened the oil filter and removed it. From here on out, after hand tightening it as much as I could, it should be easy to remove. I'll check the tq once I my proper oil filter wrench comes in the mail, but I'm pretty sure I can hand tighten more that 19ft lbs.

Thanks for the right up man!
 
#30 · (Edited)
I changed my oil today. This post was a big help. Thank you very much! I want to add a few things:

1. When removing the filter cover, if the paper element stays attached to the engine, the filter cover can't be snaked out. It took me a little while to figure this out. Ultimately I saw what was going on and pulled the element into the disconnected cover. Then the whole thing came out easily as a unit.

2. I was not able to hand tighten the filter enough. In the 1st photo you can see that there is still a gap indicating that the cover is not fully seated. Although it felt tight, that's as far as I could get it by hand. I bought a cap wrench at Advance Auto for $5.99 (pictured). It's 76 mm. That made the job of using a torque wrench easy as pie. I highly recommend this (or similar) cap wrench. In the second photo you can see that the cap is fully seated.

3. The idea of pouring oil into your trunk is a bit unnerving. Since I'm a slob and often spill things (especially when nervous), I cut a hole in a garbage bag and duct taped it as shown. This made it pretty easy and slob proof.

All in all, it was fairly straight forward, when you know the tricks.

P.S.
The 76 mm wrench fit nearly perfectly. It may have been a hair loose but certainly not loose enough to risk stripping it. It worked perfectly; I highly recommend it.
 
#36 ·
Those are interesting jack stands up front, who makes them, do you have a picture of the top where the car rests? Cost and where you can get them?

Filter glove, what's that?

Cheers...
 
#53 ·
Here in CA auto parts stores that sell oil are required to accept old oil for recycling. When I buy oil I make it a point to stand out -- in nice way -- so the store staff remember me and when I come back carrying a container of old oil I get directed to the back room and the oil tank with no muss no fuss.

I would have to believe in AZ there are recycling centers where you can take old oll.

When I do the oil changes in my cars I use this drain pan:

Google Image Result for http://www.blitzusa.com/products/fuel/Containment/enviroflo/11838%2015%20Quart%20Oil%20Drain.jpg

What I then do is after the oil change is over with I pour the oil from this pan into a 5 gallon plastic gasoline "can" until it gets full then I take this to the store to recycle the oil. You have to assure the staff there is no gasoline or anything in the can other than oil. I bought the can new and have used it for oil only.

Now you could just use the drain pan to carry the oil to the store. I have a few times but the 5 gallon plastic gas can is a bit easier to carry. The drain pan I have to lay in the rear trunk of the Boxster and pad it to keep it from moving about.

Couple of caveats using that drain pan: One is be sure the vent is open. Also, do not drop the oil drain plug for it will almost certainly fall and block the drain hole into the pan proper and the oil will over flow the sides of the pan and make a mess.

Use mechanics rubber or latex gloves so you can remove the drain plug without the hot oil burning your hand. (The oil wants to be 170F or hotter when drained.)