[BlackBeanChicken]

You are not giving them enough time. It takes 5 to 10 minutes for the 12v outlets to power off.

Actually, when I went to drive it there was a battery low warning on the dash. My plugged in dash cam had been running for at least a couple of days. That's why I asked as this didn't happen before I installed the Erisin.

 

[BlackBeanChicken]

Hey also I discovered that when you try to update Android version from a USB Stick, the stick HAS TO be formatted in FAT16 or FAT32. Otherwise it will not work. The install starts up and looks like it will work. But when system reboots to start the new install, it dies. No mention of this in the install docs from Erisin.

 

[ktm981]

Actually, when I went to drive it there was a battery low warning on the dash. My plugged in dash cam had been running for at least a couple of days. That's why I asked as this didn't happen before I installed the Erisin.

Did you review the camera footage to verify that the camera footage was running?

 

[BlackBeanChicken]

Did you review the camera footage to verify that the camera footage was running?

It's turning off now. After I topped up the battery before, it kept running. All good now. Thanks for repsonding.

 

[ktm981]

Well, here is the finished product. It is plugged into the other end of the harness that I got it from which is identical to the back of the PCM. I am replacing the Erisin with a CHSTEK (to be delivered on July 15th) and will let you know how this plug works out.

View attachment 300174

As I promised, I got around to installing the CHSTEK this weekend. It is a bit more of an endeavor though not difficult and a bit more....raw.

Regardless, the plug I made works PERFECTLY. It will also work perfectly for the Erisin. Enabling the rear speakers really does help and you will want to take the 2 hours to do so. I say two hours as you will want to just take your time, carefully remove panels, etc.

 

[BlackBeanChicken]

Is the CSHTEK headunit better than the ERISIN? Just wondered

 

[deilenberger]

Is the CSHTEK headunit better than the ERISIN? Just wondered

Difficult thing to answer without someone having experience with both..

 

[BlackBeanChicken]

Does anyone know what the "Heart Beat" setting actuially does in the ERISIN System Menu Options?

 

[studioRS]

Here's a follow up on my powered subwoofer unit installation with the ERISIN unit.

My intent was to have a complete powered unit (amp w/subwoofer) mounted below the passenger seat in the space where the ASK and / or Bose amp usually is. My 2014 Boxster 2.7L came specced with the base CDR31 (w/Sirius XM) and no Sound Package Plus — so no amp there, just an open space. Speakers with the base CDR31 are paper cone versions (with small magnets, suitable for the factory CDR31, 2x25w) in each door with two tweeters in the air vents and no rear speakers.

After a few months driving around with the additional two rear used Bose speakers I installed (hooking them into the ERISIN unit high-level RR, RL outputs) the improvement was huge, a night and day difference with the ERISIN 4x45 and DSP adjustments. The sound quality of all songs was really so much better. Unfortunately, no matter what volume or setting on the DSP software I configured, this setup needed a powered bass.

Continued research led me to find a compact powered bass unit that is well rated and most of all fits inside the space underneath the passenger seat, with room for proper solid mounting. The Boxster interior space is very small and you really only need a small powered bass unit to make any difference.

Powered subwoofer build list
Parts
- Rockville SS65P 400w 6.5" slim under-seat powered subwoofer + amp kit (eBay was a good source). Dimensions (Inches): 9.64" L x 7.08" W x 2.83" H. Rockville SS65P 400w 6.5" Slim Under-Seat Active Powered Car/Truck Subwoofer Sub

• 1"x1"x 1/8" aluminum angle
• 2"x 1/8" aluminum strip
• Factory MINI Cooper R53 grille badge metal backing plate (bent, used as an angle)
• Misc small 10mm x 10mm flat head phillips bolts, nuts
• Misc small 8mm x 10mm allen socket head bolts, lock nuts
• 2x small 3mm x 8mm allen socket head bolts, lock nuts
• Self adhesive felt
• Self adhesive foam, 1/2" thick
• Small Zip-ties
• Waxoyl Power Shield Corrosion Protection spray (www.waxoyl-usa.com)
• Felt wiring harness tape

Step 1. Unbolt the passenger seat (4x female E12 Torx bolts) and prop it up with a wood stick or something similar.

Above: Looking towards the center tunnel, you can see the shape of the space. Ahhhaa, nice grounding point, perfect!

Measurements

Above: Length shows 16" to the edge of the carpet, the space below is open and goes deeper, like 18"+.

Above: Width is 8.75"

Above: Front edge, 2.75" with carpet.

Above: Back edge, 2.25" with carpet

 

[studioRS]

Step 2. Remove battery and remove battery tray. Take the Air compressor out first, then remove the strap above the battery, unbolt battery and remove. (I used a red 10GA wire through a hole in the tray with blue clamp to hold it to the side). With the battery removed and tray off to the side, install 12v+, 10GA wire from Amp kit included with purchase. The easiest place to go through the firewall into the passenger footwell, was to use the factory 12v+ grommet lead directly from the battery.

Above: Feed the wire from the battery side into the passenger compartment. I used some Waxoyl Power Shield corrosion spray to make this easy and smooth. Also used the Waxoyl spray to seal up the grommet and a zip-tie.

Step 3. Remove the passenger side carpet mat, side fuse box cover and pull back from the firewall.

Above: The large black wire is the direct 12v+ from the battery > This goes to a junction box (lower left underneath foam backing), from there Porsche changes the main power lead color to red and distributes to wiring harness, etc.

Above: Close up view. From here I ran the blue wire underneath the passenger carpet towards the sill side, close to the main wiring loom, but not within the black cover. Blue 12v+ wire pokes out from under the carpet, next to the front right seat bolt mount.

Above: Cleaned up waxoyl, zip-tied with supplied Amp kit plastic wire wrap.

Step 4. Reinstall battery tray

Above: I used Waxoyl spray on the bolt threads, bolt heads and anywhere it showed the smallest corrosion. See lower left bolt head, grrrr.

 

[studioRS]

Step 5. Test placement of powered subwoofer amp, it fits really well!!! This unit is solid aluminum enclosure, beefy and has some good weight to it. Very important to mount this solidly.

Above: you can see the unit fits well. Also, blue 12v+ wire inside of supplied kit black wire wrap, pokes out from underneath carpet near the front right seat mount.

Step 6. Mount up ground wire. Also, run the supplied RCA wires and small 16GA supplied single blue 12v+ powered wire (toggles on the subwoofer connected to the ACC wire on ERISIN). Run these underneath the carpet, following the same path as the blue 12v+ wire.

Above: Ground wire mounted with supplied amp kit wire. I choose to solder the connection at the mount point and shrink wrapped the connection. Tuck the wire around the back side next to the other ground wires and loom.

 

[studioRS]

Step 7. Testing the covered height with carpet over.

Above: Ok this looks really good, only pokes up little towards the center tunnel. NOTE: The only thing I had to adjust was to scoot the seat wiring harness towards the outer sill on it's clip on the round bar, that's it!

 

[studioRS]

Step 8. Mounting up all the aluminum angle, strips and getting it bolted in using the factory ASK / Bose amp mounting points. This took considerable time to get it all dialed in, out, back in, out again, sore knees, blah, blah...

Above: initial layout of mounting parts.

Above: You can see the thin black metal MINI R53 Grille badge backing I used to make this mounting point.

Above five photos: Final mounting brackets and felt covers/foam over bolt heads. This mounting bracket setup uses three factory points in the open cavity. I couldn't find a location to easily mount the left rear. Not a problem though, the angle bracketing all bolted together is incredibly stout and since the unit rests on the base of the flooring on the left rear, it's fine.

 

[studioRS]

Step 9.
Mounting points
The front left side mounts to a T25? Torx round head body bolt. Remove this and screw back in through the black angle bracket hole.

The rear right mounting point attaches to the factory ASK / Bose amp middle bolt location.

Above: Uses a 10mm nut to secure.

The front right mounting point uses the factory ASK / Bose amp bolt location.

Above: Use a 10mm nut to secure.

 

[studioRS]

Step 10. Wiring the subwoofer amp up.

Above L-R wiring: All connected with 12v+, 12v+ trigger (ACC) wire, Ground- wire and RCA low level input wires. I connected the remote wire later and ran this underneath the carpet up into the glovebox. This remote enables input gain adjustment.

Read the supplied directions from Rockville, for low level RCA connections, make sure the "Auto On" button on the unit is turned off, toggled up.

Above: Hook up the blue 16GA 12v+ trigger wire to ACC red wire on the ERISIN.

Hook up the low level RCA plugs from the subwoofer to the rear audio output RR / LR out RCA plugs (I think they are "B", #5) on the ERISIN wiring diagram. No need to connect it to the single brown subwoofer #9 plug.

 

[studioRS]

Step 11. Tuning the unit and ERISIN DSP adjustments
This little 6.5" powered subwoofer is incredible and really brings this setup to a proper sound quality level – even using the factory stock paper cone speakers / tweeters and with the rear used Bose speakers installed! Now I can hear and feel music with the top down (as well as you can at the speed limit), simply amazing.

Using the ERISIN DSP adjustments I was able to back off the bass and because the powered subwoofer is now on the rear system, you can dial it in really well in the DSP.

I will eventually upgrade the front two large door speakers with something (possibly a coaxial speaker) that has better sound quality, can handle the 4x45w power better and when my door panels need gluing, Lol. With this new setup, hopefully I don't blow the stock door speakers out too soon.

Working on the ERISIN setting photos, place holder for now.

 

[studioRS]

Does anyone know what the "Heart Beat" setting actuially does in the ERISIN System Menu Options?

I did see that this was toggled on with @hestenet photos of the debug screens (I haven't looked at mine yet). My guess is that toggled on means to "listen and have the ability to record" logs similar to like a Kardia mobile app.

 

[Cayman Ed]

@studioRS . Congratulations on an amazing job installing the electrical wiring and the slim type subwoofer under the seat! Well done!
A dedicated subwoofer really makes a well rounded & immersive musical system.

 

[carl s]

Installed the Erisin this weekend into my 981C that previously had a CDR radio + joyeauto card. I upgraded for a couple of reasons
1) drag & drop was very difficult between screens on the CDR+Joyeauto
2) You couldn't use maps on anything but night mode as the white just blurred into the yellow roads
3) You could not pause or change tracks or do anything with the physical buttons apart from volume

The Erisin solves all of these and I'm happy with the additional functionality like I now have lines on the reversing camera, and they move with the steering. Also have a pictogram of the car that shows doors/boot opening as well as the reverse sensors. None of which I had before on the CDR.

However, the sound quality is significantly poorer than the old Joyeauto+CDR. The Joyeauto started off bad until I used the loudness setting which gave decent depth to the music & bass.
I have found the bass boost option which seems to help but only on certain frequencies, also carplay seems to be half the volume of the radio. I went into the factory settings menu and turned the gain up on carplay to 5 but even now it's still lower than the radio. Also tried playing around with the graphic equaliser which helps a bit but not much. Is there something I'm missing?

 

[shaguftarahat]

Hi. I have followed all the instructions as above. However my unit does not turn on with ignition