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Anyone replace Bose speakers with Burmester's?

67K views 78 replies 19 participants last post by  Tom991s  
#1 ·
#2 ·
I'm planning on doing the tweeters. I've got a set on the way to me. I've done parts checks, and the same Burmester tweeters are used throughout the entire Porsche range. The 911s have specific grills for the Burmesters, but I don't think we do. I can't find another part number for different vent/tweeter grills on the 981s. Can anyone chime in on that?
 
#5 ·
The open questions there about the frequency crossover for the tweeter and why the Burmester tweeter didn't blow up sparked my interest. I'd really like to find out what the deal is.

As always, I am offering to record the systems before and after (with measuring mics and "professional" gear) so that there is a reference and so that there is a start point for EQing the thing with some purpose. That's near Boston but I travel to CA and Europe a bit and the gear is small.
 
#8 · (Edited)
INSTRUMENT PANEL COMPONENTS for 2014 Porsche Cayman

Ok, found the vent/grill parts. Looks like there are two. One for premium sound and the other, I assume, is for base audio.

Anyone brave enough to pull a vent and get a picture of the speaker mount locations?

EDIT: looks like there are three types. With and Without Premium Audio and another without the sound listing (base?).
 
#9 · (Edited)
I looked into doing this modification last year and decided not to because of the significant cost and possible impedance issues. The costs provided below are what I was quoted in July 2015 by a discount online Porsche parts dealer that is not a Planet-9 sponsor.

Here's the details -

The 991 owners are just buying the tweeters, screws, and grilles for the Burmester system.

On the 981 the Burmester tweeter part number is 7PP-035-411-E and you need two at $137.75 ea.
The screws to hold the tweeter in place are part number 999-073-798-01 you need 6 at $.13 ea.
The speed nuts for the screws are part number 999-507-556-01 you need 6 at $.38 ea.
Now here is the killer. The speaker grilles are part of the A/C vents. The vent/grille part number is 981-552-131-05-1E0 (black part number) you need two at $151.94 ea.

All said and done, not including shipping and possibly sales tax it would cost $582.44 just to have the Burmester tweeters.
 
#11 ·
I have a set of vents from my de-chroming effort with the Bose speaker attached. I will photo and upload it here. It is a small plastic blob with a funky connector. The speaker (part #3 in above link) is held by a spring clamp (#5). The Burmeister tweeter is square and appears to be a ribbon tweeter.

Personally, if I were going to do it, I'd grind and glue the bose vent to fit the Burmeister. It could cut $300 off the price. Besides, I'm not going back to chrome!
 
#13 ·
#16 · (Edited)
This thread peaked my interest;
Upgrade: Start Loving your Bose - ******** Discussion Forums

This is on a 991. Curious if anyone has done this on their 981?
Hello, I'm new to this forum, but have posted on the ******** thread "start loving you Bose". I'm in the process of swapping out all (4) of my base speakers to Burmester and adding the two 4" mids in the door along with the identical 4" mids in the rear of my 981C. To drive everything I'm adding an amp (more on that later).

I purchased the Burmester AMT (ribbon tweeter) per the excellent feedback in the above mentioned thread. I tested them out and they really sound amazing! ** It's important to note that both the Base system and Bose have a small capacitor / bass blocker on the tweeters to block the low frequencies.... So if you're thinking about doing this mod, or upgrading to another tweeter, make sure you use an appropriate capacitor / passive filter on them!

In the interest of keeping everything the same as the Burmester setup - I took the plunge and ordered the Burmester version of the air vents which cover the tweeters (note these had to be special ordered from Germany and took about 7 weeks to my door)! Well - I just received the vents and I'm a little disappointed by them as I don't think they were worth the cost (and wait). As you can see, they only differ from the existing vent in that they don't have the square (with circular tweeter holder) plate attached (glued) to them. I could have fairly easily modified the existing vents by removing this plate (see Red arrow). Secondarily, I also purchased and tested the Rear Burmester tweeter, which sound great and are a worth wile upgrade (and cheap in comparison) at a little over $120/pair...They are 1" (compared to .75" of Base and Bose) and they sound really good and would have just dropped right in the existing vent! Note these also would need a capacitor as Burmester runs active crossovers in their system which has been confirmed. Here are some pics...Let me know if anyone has any questions and I'll post more findings later.
 
#33 · (Edited)
I just took one of my extra vents and drilled out the four plastic rivets. Once the rivet studs are removed, it looks close to the second photo of the Burmester vent. The hole pattern to let the sound go through is slightly different between the two. The overall location of the pattern is the same (good), but the outside edges of the Bose have fewer holes (hidden by the round plastic adapter piece just removed). Some of the ribbon tweeter slot openings will be covered. Maybe 5 to 10 percent. However, the correct drill bit and a good drill press and a decent mounting for the vent should allow you to drill the extra holes. Accuracy won't matter, and the slats on the top will hide any ugliness.

It still begs the question on how to mount it since there are no mounting holes in the Burmester vent. So either there is the possibility of adding speednuts to the dash or something in the hole in the dash, or you just fill it with padding and perhaps a thin foam or rubber pad on the top of the tweeter to prevent sound and road vibration between the vent and the tweeter making unwanted noise.

For the slots in the tweeter to match the location of the holes in the vent, the orientation of the tweeter must be that the end with one mounting must go to the top. This puts the single mount under the grey single prong shown in the middle top of the first two pictures. Of course, my car is out of town for at least two more weeks, so I can't pull the vents and look inside. Photos here and elsewhere don't show an easy mounting built-in. Since 981C_pgh has installed his with the Burmester vents, the mounting for the modified Bose vents should be the same. Hopefully he will give us some advice.

I have to leave soon, but I will update this post with photos later today or tonight.

V6
Hello, I'm new to this forum, but have posted on the ******** thread "start loving you Bose". I'm in the process of swapping out all (4) of my base speakers to Burmester and adding the two 4" mids in the door along with the identical 4" mids in the rear of my 981C. To drive everything I'm adding an amp (more on that later).

I purchased the Burmester AMT (ribbon tweeter) per the excellent feedback in the above mentioned thread. I tested them out and they really sound amazing! ** It's important to note that both the Base system and Bose have a small capacitor / bass blocker on the tweeters to block the low frequencies.... So if you're thinking about doing this mod, or upgrading to another tweeter, make sure you use an appropriate capacitor / passive filter on them!

In the interest of keeping everything the same as the Burmester setup - I took the plunge and ordered the Burmester version of the air vents which cover the tweeters (note these had to be special ordered from Germany and took about 7 weeks to my door)! Well - I just received the vents and I'm a little disappointed by them as I don't think they were worth the cost (and wait). As you can see, they only differ from the existing vent in that they don't have the square (with circular tweeter holder) plate attached (glued) to them. I could have fairly easily modified the existing vents by removing this plate (see Red arrow). Secondarily, I also purchased and tested the Rear Burmester tweeter, which sound great and are a worth wile upgrade (and cheap in comparison) at a little over $120/pair...They are 1" (compared to .75" of Base and Bose) and they sound really good and would have just dropped right in the existing vent! Note these also would need a capacitor as Burmester runs active crossovers in their system which has been confirmed. Here are some pics...Let me know if anyone has any questions and I'll post more findings later.
View attachment 75226 View attachment 75234 View attachment 75242
 
#18 ·
Hello, I do have a pair of the 4" Bose speakers that I'm not using...But it depends what system you currently have... If you have the SPP, and thinking of upgrading to Bose or Burmester these won't work as intended as they are 2 ohm, where SPP uses 4 -6 ohm speakers..But if you're adding an amp and speakers these will certainly work as the rear cutout will only (easily) work with OEM Porsche 4" speakers
 
#38 ·
There is a mounting plate attached to the dash to fit the AMT tweeters. You could def remove the insert from the Bose/Base tweeter vents if you're not going to put it back to stock....The only risk is some of the plastic underneath of the vent could crack, but you wouldn't see it anyway from the top. They really sound great and a worthy upgrade (as long as you put a bass blocker on them if you're using the base radio or Bose amp output).
 
#21 · (Edited)
There are three mounting slots on the tweeters for bolts. I think you drill out the plastic rivets that hold the circular cutout to the vent (very unlikely the plastic rivets match the tweeter), probably glue/epoxy three bolts to the grill, head-side to the vent, and then use nuts and washers to hold the tweeter to the vents.

I have two extra sets of vents to practice on before I do the real ones (real ones have the chrome ring replaced/covered with carbon fiber).

I saw a photo somewhere that showed the impedance of the speaker types (base/Bose/Burmester). The AMT ribbons were listed at 6 ohms vs 4 for Bose, so the power should be fine. The other speakers were the same except for the middle dash, which is 2 ohm for Burmester vs 4 ohm for Bose. That may be an issue, so I will have to carefully listen for clipping.

V6
 
#27 ·
There is another thread there where someone came up with a passenger footwell sub that took about six inches of space.

As far as mounting on a car with base audio, hopefully someone will respond. I assume the resonance tube created by the dashboard is still there, but the mount....?

V6
 
#29 · (Edited)
Burmester Tweeters and Dash center speaker shipped today from NV. The Subwoofer is on back order via an Oregon dealer, although they list the rear tweeters as in stock. I am hoping the SW doesn't have to come from Germany (2 months, minimum).

Getting the speakers is moot, because I don't currently have a car to install them in...... Car will be at BGB until at least 25 March, likely longer :-( I will take photos of the speaker installation and post them in my mod thread.

V6
 
#31 ·
Tweeters and dash center speaker arrived today, two days late, box crushed by USPS. I filed a 'Why haven't I got my package' customer no-service request 10 minutes before the Post man showed up. He agreed with the dameage and noted it, so if anything is broke, I can claim insurance, but I doubt Gaudin paid for extra insurance, and they charged an arm and leg for the two day service and they used a flat rate box.

On opening, all three Porsche part boxes were bent up to some extent, with the center speaker the worst. They all look OK. The question is, " How will they play?"

The sub and rear tweeters were from Oregon. UPS says next Friday. I won't be home, but I may arrange to pick up on Will Call.

Question? Does anyone know how to get the rear speaker panels (with the roll top storage unit) off. I found a photo of the part on sale in ebaY UK. The hole and mount is clearly there. I assume if we can get some form of wires pre attached (with a capacitor) and then plug it in the hole and then connect in parallel to the mid range right next to it, it might not require removing the entire trim to get to it. I wish the grill popped off, but it looks integral with the trim.

V6
 
#32 ·
Got Tweeters and dash speaker today. Four days and damaged box for Priority Mail USPS. Filed a 'where is my package' complaint 10 minutes before the postman showed up. Four of last Priority Mail Packages have not met the 2 to 3 day delivery date.

The corner of the box was so crushed that I saw damage on each of the Porsche brown parts boxes inside. Fortunately, nothing appears damaged. The tweeters are metal blobs and unless something poked the ribbons, it would be good.

Dash speaker is smaller than I thought it would be.

The rear tweeters and subwoofer are scheduled by USPS to get here next Friday.

Question: Does anyone here know how to remove the rear trim holding the rear speakers in a Cayman?

I've looked at parts dept line art and there is one for sale in Europe, and the pictures from that auction are useful. It appears at least two screws and nuts. The big issue is how much other trim must be removed to get to the panels.

The tweeter mount appears to be molded into the trim piece and the mid-range is next to it. The tweeters should just snap in place if I can get to the underside of the trim. The issue is picking up the wiring from the mid-range and adding a capacitor to limit low frequencies from getting to the tweeter.

The dash center channel speaker connector looks hard to get to the pins. If there is a different connector on the Bose, I will likely just solder to the tabs that connect the voice coil to the connector.

V6
 
#34 · (Edited)
Rivets drilled out


Bose tweeter mount plate removed


Rivet shaft/standoffs removed with sharp chisel



Tweeter next to vent grill to show more holes are needed

If you can find a small enough drill bit, you could set the drill depth by using tape on the drill bit. This will prevent the drill from going into the slats on the other side of the grill.


V6
 
#39 · (Edited)
Rivets drilled out
View attachment 79370

Bose tweeter mount plate removed
View attachment 79378

Rivet shaft/standoffs removed with sharp chisel
View attachment 79386


Tweeter next to vent grill to show more holes are needed
View attachment 79402
If you can find a small enough drill bit, you could set the drill depth by using tape on the drill bit. This will prevent the drill from going into the slats on the other side of the grill.


V6
Sorry for the delay guys (I wasn't getting any notifications in my email of new posts for some reason). But nice job on this! I thought this could be done fairly easily....

To clarify on the AMT tweeter install:
The tweeters mount/attach directly to the dash (not the vents), the factory location is already there. Once the vent is off, look through your windshield from the outside and into the hole (around where the tweeters were you will now see that there are two holes towards the back and a narrow notched area in the front). Now you simply attach the speed nuts over the back two holes with the factory hardware and bolts (just like the 911 install), however the single top tab is not screwed in, there is simply a notch/slot to hold the single top tab of the AMT tweeter part in place...as you tighten the back two screws the top (single end) of the tweeter will angle up and not move...it's very solid...damn...I should've taken a picture! But you'll notice the mounting location when you look through the windshield and down! Do a test fit and it'll line up perfectly!

If you (or anyone else) has any further questions I'd be more than happy to help. The rear is easy to get to, just the order you take things apart is important or you'll break tons of tabs!

As of this weekend, I just finished upgrading everything on my Base system to all Burmester speakers... I went with an Audison 8.9 Bit which is a DSP/AMP combo with 8 channels and active crossover settings. I'm really happy with the results!

I basically tested out all of the speakers available from Base, SPP, Bose, and Burmester. It was a lot of work, and honestly - if I had the SPP - I would have just added the Burmester AMT tweeters and left the rest alone since the head unit and amp can only do down as low as 4 ohms. If I had Bose, I'd strongly recommend upgrading to the Burmester speakers as the 4" midrange on the Bose sounds very tinny in comparison to even the base speakers surprisingly. Since both Bose and Burmester are mostly 2 ohms, you're safe. They just use different connectors (which I have the VW/Audi part #'s for). Only thing I didn't add was the under dash sub...I was more than happy with the bass output after replacing the door speakers as the Burmester is 8" vs. the 6.5" that came in my base system...the doors speakers really put out a ton of bass when tuned correctly!!