the headlights assembly are 5 lbs each.. not unless your doing night races.. the lug bolts can save your 1lbs per tire if you change to studs and nuts. ill ad more things as the pop in my head..

lemon

 

Did you weigh it as stock prior to interior gutting and roll bar?

 

I had a shop build the car and it was not weighted prior to starting.

 

Start from the top to get your CG as low as possible. Because your car is a 987.2 it does share a few body parts with the Cup cars and "R's" like the aluminum and carbon fiber doors, thin windshields, lexan, etc. check around to be sure though. Real carbon parts if your budget can stand it!! The door bars are heavy and most all street legal wheel rims are compared to real race rims. Those four flywheels and tires are important in many ways.

 

Mike, my Cayman 6-speed race car, before the recent addition of wider wheels, flares, and oil cooler weighed about 2650 empty. It is now about 2680 and about 2905 with me and all of my gear in the car (yes, I am a fatass). The car still has the stock wiring harness (don’t mess with this) and full leather dash and stack side panels. We also still have the steel hatch, fenders, roof, and all stock glass except for removal of the side windows.

I do not know the weight differential on the 9A1 engine vs. the M97 (+/-), nor do I know how much the PDK adds. If you know these items then you can build a good target weight for your car as the rest of the structure and parts should be nearly the same.

Replacing the rear glass will only get you about 4# of savings, so there are lots of other places to go first. Heater core and FG doors are both big weight savings - and the cup mirrors provide a bit more. Also make sure that all of the emission control equipment (air pumps, etc.) and associated plumbing are removed. Internal bumpers are decent savings and one of the cooling fans (not both) also gets you a bit. Is there a LWFW option for a PDK (I have never looked at the design)? AC compressor, plumbing, and condenser should be removed if they have not been already. Electric PS gets you some savings as well.

Don't go too small on the battery or you may have an issue if you spin and try to start a hot engine (direct experience). We run a mid-size battery now (not sure of the weight).

Cheers,

 

Lose the passenger seat.
Lightweight driver seat.
Remove all the insulation, carpet, headliner.
Replace all the glass with Lexan.
Carbon fiber body panels and hatch.
Light battery, wheels, tires.
Minimal fuel. Empty the window washer reservoir.

__________

 

also aluminum radiators might save some weight...

 

What are the current radiators made out of?

Since the rear hatch is steel any idea on what a light-weight hatch would weight?

 

Potential weight loss:

door cross braces < cayman r doors < cup doors
CF hood
heater core
race headers/exhaust
PDLS bixenons are really heavy, twice as heavy as std lights. can do rsr lens or cf covers.
CF fenders
lexan rear windows
passenger seat
CF seat
CF rear deck lid


PDK adds 60lbs
LWFW would remove 15-18lbs, but is not generally recommended for PDK cars

 

Radiators are aluminum.

Re: the hatch, here is re-post of some very old information from Tess:

---

New Standard Rear Hatch ................11.6Kg(25.52lbs)
New Std Front Trunk Lid....................7.5Kg (16.5lbs)
New Rear Screen (3mm Glass).............4.8Kg (10.56lbs)

or Polycarb Rear Screen (4mm)............3Kg (6.6lbs)


So Looking at the figures for the rear hatch Standard with glass would be 16.4Kg(36.08lbs)
The lightest alternative (Carbon Hatch/Polycarb window) would be 8kg(17.6lbs)
The heaviest alternative (GRP Hatch/Polycarb window would be 10.5Kg(23.1lbs)

But the Rear Hatch taken from My car with Glass and Zero Trim (balance weight removed etc) is almost 20Kg (44lbs) so it must have lots of bonding glue for the glass and sh1tloads of paint

 

But the Rear Hatch taken from My car with Glass and Zero Trim (balance weight removed etc) is almost 20Kg (44lbs)

Thanks for posting that, I've always wondered but couldn't find much. Any experience with CF or FRP hatch?

 

No experience. The data I posted was compiled by long-time member Tess Tickle. We still run the steel hatch as we have not wanted to devise a new method of wing attachment that would likley be needed with FRP or CF.

Also, given the tracks we race it has worked our better to run heavier with higher HP so removing additional weight has been less of a priorty. This is changing a bit now that the car is getting heavier with the additional of oil coolers, etc.

Cheers,

 

The DFI cars will not start with too small a battery. My 987.1 ran fine with a pc680 (15lb) battery, the 987.2 will not hardly start with it. Have to use a pc925 (25lb). Doors are very heavy, aluminum turbo / R doors save almost 30lbs. Race doors in fiberglass or carbon will be over double that.

 

Carbon doors and hood and hatch. Also, have you gutted the dash? What wheels are you running?

 

Wheels are Forgeline or CCW. Gutting the heater core etc is next.

 

Carbon Doors, Carbon Roof, Carbon Hatch

Our last 3 builds have weight 2806-2815 with Driver ( non carbon doors )

 

That driver at 9 lbs was born to race.LOL

 

I have the CF Hatch and lexan in the rear. My car weighs more than yours, but the hatch saves a lot of weight. I don't recall the exact savings, but I think it was more than 15lbs. Don't try putting the stock hatch cylinders back on, though.. TRUST ME!

 

Back in the day when I raced, my car was at minimum weight. I took 50# off the driver by avoiding morning donuts and beer (not all of it).

 

RS1 I'm still trying to figure out how my car went from 2927 on your scale to 3070 at Road America scales. I know i didn't eat that many donuts for breakfast!!! lol

 

What fuel are you running through the scales with? We do setups with 5 gals of fuel. Have you changed spring rates or ride height? That will have a direct reflection in your numbers.

 

Mike,
See the attached photos of the stock doors. We removed the reinforcement bars and trimmed the doors down a little bit and got 18lbs combined weight savings on a pair of doors. This may help your budget and avoid going to carbon.

]

 

Krok,
During the setup process you can see a 20lb overall swing in setup when varying ride height. Changes in camber, and caster will even effect those numbers. I know we are counting straws here however I just wanted to shed light on it. 20lbs here, 20lbs there, all add up.
We've seen cars arrive on the pad at 2730 and after setup overall weight is 2752. In theory this doesn't make much sense because the overall weight of the car is the overall weight of the car however when adjusting the 4 corners we've seen up to a 20-25 lb swing.

 

So the scale varies this much, either randomly or in response to how the car is placed on it. Have you tried weighing several times without modification to get a sense of the swing?

 

Each time a change is made, the vehicle gets a bounced and roll to settle any binding in order to avoid in accurate numbers.

 

Plans at this point are to work on removing door bars, take out the heater core, change to a LW batter (either a pc925 or a Braille B3121 anybody have experience with either one?) That along with some personal dieting might get me to 3000#. Then work on adding some power with either an improved tune or race fuel (probably both). Beyond that there is lighter doors (FG or carbon) and LW hatch/lexan. I might get the car to 2775 plus me at 200. That is about as good as it gets without significantly more dollars invested. I should probably buy coaching for myself as the best way to get faster!!!