The brake ducts are designed for incredibly high air flow at speed. The speed of a descent on a mountain road will have such a low airspeed, the ambient air temp will have a much greater effect than brake ducts.

 

I am in the process of putting together my seasonal mods. Each season I try to a make a modest but meaningful modification or two. 2007 CS 6 speed. This season I am going to be doing the GT3 brake master and stainless steel hose modification. That part of the endeavor regarding parts has been worked out. While I am at it I am thinking of adding the GT3 brake ducts. I do not track the car. But I live in northern VT. Lots of long descents on mountain passes. So additional cooling can not hurt.

So.........I see numerous choices both part # wise and price wise. Any help with part #'s and where to purchase would be very helpful.

TIA,
Graham

Going to second vilshofen on this but yeah, it can't hurt. I bought these from Pelican Parts: 997-341-483-92-M100 and 997-341-484-92-M100 (left and right). They are uber cheap and I haven't managed to tear them off yet. I have jerry-rigged the 997 GT2 rear brake duct in the rear but I can't find the part number atm.

 

Better than brake ducts would be titanium shims between the caliper piston and the brake pad. And if you are truly worried, Motul 600 on your next flush would be a better use of $. But still, for the low weight of the car and the fact that it is not being tracked, the brakes on the Cayman are way more than anyone would need even for mountain descents If you are not riding the brake pedal all the way down.

 

Good suggestion. I noticed the most difference with the GT3 master cylinder and titanium shims than I did with the brake ducts. RBF600 is fine. Avoid RBF660, pick something like Endless 650 or Castrol SRF.

 

I would recommend the 996 Cup Duct, which is double the size of the GT3 part. I would do this part even though its more than double the cost. Your car will look better as you can see the black air duct under the front end. In your case, going downhill is difficult to heat up the brakes but not too much. So these ducts keep from overheating those softer non racing brake pads. You will not worry about screeching brake pads that the rest of us have to deal with to use on the street.

 

The problem I see with the GT3 master cylinder is you lose the modulation of the oem version. Why is this important, well mountain passes sometimes have white stuff and ice, Hard brake pedals do not work as well as being able to slightly relax the pressure and allow some rotation of the tires, Anyone who has driven on ice knows how temperamental ice driving is without studs and using wide tires as well. Most of you guys never have had to modulate your brakes for ice, have you? Its an art. Just take you Cayman to an icy parking lot without any tire bumpers that you can hit, and try to autocross. I find that engine braking works well to keep the front wheels rotating and changing direction. Porsche actually had a sales brochure in 2007 with a MT base model in Canada. What a trip They liked the mid engine weight distribution around corners. I actually read it a few times, then bore scoring came out, why would you subject your engine to below 0 start ups?

The brake ducts are just air ventilators directed at the rotor so the brakes will work just as well with them there, and when the brakes get hot in the spring, summer and fall activities, they add the cooling effect. There are GT2 rear brake ducts as well.

 

The problem I see with the GT3 master cylinder is you lose the modulation of the oem version.

Nah, it doesn't turn it into an on/off switch, it just gets rid of some of the throw and mushiness of the stock MC. You can still modulate the brakes fine.