Rennline sells tie downs that attach at your jack points. I have them in the front but do not use them to tie down the car.

I will have my car on the trailer this weekend. I will take some photos of my system. I have tried different approaches and finally got an easy system.

 

Thanks for the info!

Look forward to seeing the pics. This will save me a lot of time!

 

I use forged T hooks in the front jack points and hook straps in them, cross the straps, and hook the other ends in the front D rings. The rears I use straps around the sway bar and go straight to the rear D rings. The theory is straight straps are stronger and this is important in a panic stop. Crossed straps keep the car from sliding sideways.

You should also figure out where the car needs to be on the trailer. I put 8-10% of the trailer/car weight on the tongue. I measure this with a Sherline scale. When done, I mark the location with tape and I only loosen the rear straps so the length of the fronts stay the same. Put the car on, fasten the front straps, reverse to put some tension, attach and tighten the rear straps. Done.

I installed a proportional brake controller. Much better than the time delay controller. Not much more money.

A check list for all the things you need to fasten, lock, connect, etc. probably isn't a bad idea.

Don't forget 2 things:

The trailer has to be hitched to the tow vehicle before you drive the car on or off!

Take the fender off the driver side of the trailer before you put the car on.

Don't ask me how I know these rules!

 

Good pointers from iceben. Check and double check chains, locks, straps etc.!! My trailer has tire stops so I can position the car in the right place every time. Also helps stop the car from rolling forward.

Also, I attach my trailer winch to the tow hook on the front bumper just to add another safety feature.

 

There are lots of opinions on this: tie from chassis, don't tie from chassis, tie from wheels, don't tie from wheels. You basically have three main options: over the wheel (requires a tie down "track" installed on the trailer), through the wheel straps, or chassis.

I use four tie downs with forged T hooks that hook to the jacking points. I cross front and rear; no specific reason other than it provides better lateral restraint. I also use very strong tie downs (Mac's Custom) and frankly am not worried that they lack adequate strength when crossed. I have a set of "through wheel" straps as well but don't use them.

Mac's are expensive but very high quality, and the people are knowledgeable. Suggest calling them and letting them explain the options for what you want to do.

And like iceben says, think through the process. Trying to load an unhitched trailer will not end well. Even with the trailer hitched, I chock the rear trailer wheels in both directions since the trailer will "pivot" on those wheels while you are loading. If your tow vehicle is on the light side, it may lift the rear wheels!

 

Fabspeed makes a nice pair or rear tow hooks that bolt to the lower rear suspension braces. You need t hooks or renline front pads or through the wheel straps up front.

Fabspeed hooks

 

When I was trailering, I tied down through the wheels. (Note - these were track wheels that didn't have a great finish or anything.)

ed

 

Just loaded a 55 Healey on a trailer for auction - great transporter company - they tied over the top of all 4 wheels into the track with ratchet tie downs. hard to see the straps - but around all 4 tires.....

 

+1. I think this is only proper way to tie down a car like the Cayman.

 

I picked up my trailer from the Trailex HQ, and the guys told me the only way to strap a car to a trailer is through the wheels. That way you keep the cushioning effect of the springs and shocks. Otherwise, you lose all the suspension cushioning and you transmit every bump in the road directly through the straps to the chassis. Granted we're talking about a strap and not a solid rod, but it is definitely harder on everything on the car above the wheels. The one thing you have to watch for is cross-tying, especially the fronts. You can screw up the alignment if you put too much force on the straps.

 

Trailex, I like these trailers. Nice. Which did you get? Please post some pictures of the trailer and how you tie the car down . I noticed that Trailex does not use a floor track for over wheel tie down in all of their trailers.

 

+1 I tie my car down with ratchet straps through the wheels as this is the easiest point on the car to reach and makes the process simple and quick. I have never noticed any wear on the wheels from the straps or alignment issues. These are the ones I use. PDQ will custom make anything you need and I recently received new ones that I ordered in two days.

4 Axle Strap Ratchet Tie Downs Rugged Weave DOT Tow BK | eBay

http://stores.ebay.com/PDQ-ENTERPRISES-Store-724-586-2900/_i.html?_fsub=859694012

 

Thanks for all the suggestions. I am picking up the trailer (trailex) this week!

 

T-hooks in the jacking points, crossed at both ends for me

 

Picked up the trailer yesterday!


http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/showimage.php?i=29853&c=42
http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/showimage.php?i=29852&c=42

 

Nice setup - fully decked out! Tire rack, spare tire, tool box, gas cans, and is that a winch? My trailer is feeling inadequate!!

 

Nice setup - fully decked out! Tire rack, spare tire, tool box, gas cans, and is that a winch? My trailer is feeling inadequate!!

Yes, its fully loaded including a winch!

This was a great find and I was happy when I found it in my State!