I use Griot's.

Either clay with Speed Shine or I just switched to a synthetic clay mitt that I use with car wash (after washing). Machine polish or sealer with a random orbital (black foam pad). Maybe wax over the top but not usually. 2-3 times a year is plenty. Lots of info on their site and lots of videos on AMMO NYC.

 

I've maintained that with an annual nanoskin treatment, followed by applying Menzerna Power Lock with a DA polisher. Smooth as glass.

A few months ago I picked up a 2015 Boxster GTS. The car spent its first two years as a daily highway commuter in the desert. It's a fine car in fine condition... mostly. The previous owner did nothing to protect the paint, so it needs a full correction. No scratches or dings; just dust and sand from being driven 80mph on the interstate five days a week for two years and 30K miles. A nanoskin and Power Lock treatment are not going to cut it.

Honestly I'd prefer to take it to a professional but we don't even have a Porsche dealer in the state, let alone a detailer I know of for that kind of work. So I'm left with the possibility of doing it myself.

The car needs a full wash, clay bar, paint correction, polish, seal, and wax/ceramic. The wash I have covered. I have a power washer, dual action polisher, and good supplies and towels from Chemical Guys, Auto Geek, and a few other sources. What I lack is the clay bar and beyond.

If you had nothing, what supplies and methods would you buy and use to put my car in tip top shape?

Ahh, I subject I know. Menzerna makes really good stuff. Some Griots are good too. This is what I do several times a year. It works for me. YMMV. You might want to read Autogeek.net too. This isn't going to be cheap

Start with the clay bar, any brand will do.

I use Menzerna, you got the orbital. Start with a low number grit polish. https://www.menzerna.com/products/polishes/car-polishes/ Get the right color pads. They are different for the polish and sealant.

Then move up to a high number, like 3000, 3500

You could use some glaze but if you do it right, there is no need for glaze which is a filler. https://www.amazon.com/Menzerna-Top-Finish-Machine-Glaze/dp/B00P87W526

Then the synthetic like power lock.

Then you can do carnauba, like glasur. It makes a difference. The paint does look better after the carnauba depending upon color. Edit. I see you bought dark grey. Carnauba might do something for that. I found it doesnt do much for whites, silvers, the light colors but it does for the dark colors, it makes it more like a mirror, for me. You do the carnauba by hand.

Finally, griots also makes good stuff. Their wheel cleaner works well, then finish with wheel wax (a brand name). And for daily or weekly touchups, I use Griots Speed Shine. Magic stuff works on both car paint and the wheels (different microfiber).

Its a time consuming but rewarding job. I suggest reading what they say on Autogeek.net too.

good luck.

 

Zymol, Zymol, Zymol, and Zymol.

Zymol Glasur Glaze was made for Porsche. Royale Glaze is my favorite but it is a little pricy. (I bought Zymol Royale Glaze as part of a sample kit. I could not afford it now.)

 

Yes yes, I said glasur, just forgot the brand name - zymol.

 

For the correction, I have used Meguair’s DA microfiber correction system. Worked very well on my ruby red metallic 2008 Cayman. Followed with Poor Boys Black Hole glaze for dark cars and then Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant. Paint looks liquid.


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Thanks, all!

I have four cars needing different levels of care so I decided to start with a sampler pack from Chemical Guys. Ended up with the following:

OG yellow clay bar
Chemical Guys V32
Chemical Guys V34
Chemical Guys V36
Chemical Guys V38
Orange, white, and black Hex-Logic pads
Menzerna Power Lock (now called Jescar)
Zymol Glasur Glaze (with applicator pads)

My cars will get V36 and V38. My wife's SUV will get V32 and V34.

 

The rest of my supplies arrive tomorrow. Very excited to get to work. I have a question before I do.

As it sits the car beads up pretty well when washed. I'm wondering if the dealership put something on it. Should I wash with Dawn soap or something similar to strip off any existing waxes/sealants? Want to make sure I start with a clean base before my ground up detail.

Thanks!

 

yes, you need to strip it and Dawn will do the job just fine. Make sure you sud it up really well and let it soak on top for a little bit to loosen any dirt so you don't scratch it into the paint at all. I use Pinnacle clay, but whatever you use, make sure to really use a lot of detailer to keep it from marring the paint. Also, I use Black Hole glaze and follow it up afterwards with sealant--you want to lock that stuff in. If you are after a good wax to finish it off and you have a dark car, DoDo Juice Blue Velvet or Purple Haze is amazing...have never seen my cars look better than after using these waxes.

 

Thanks!

It is freshly washed now. I'll foam cannon it and do a quick wash before moving to Dawn for the strip wash. Overboard, but better safe than sorry.

My plan is to do it in pieces starting tomorrow night. Probably complete the strip wash and taping off tomorrow night. Wednesday I'll clay. Thursday and Friday night I'll work on the cutting polish. Hopefully Saturday I'll knock out the finishing polish and paint sealant. Shoot for the wax first thing Sunday morning.