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Every time I change my oil myself, I have to pay homage to this thread. My 2 cents to add is only 1 click with my Craftsman torque wrench at 37 ft/lb or I'll strip the drain plug. The oil measurement gauge is a pain, you would think that it could be easier to measure the oil. Dipstick worked great but I realize it could be messy.
 

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Every time I change my oil myself, I have to pay homage to this thread. My 2 cents to add is only 1 click with my Craftsman torque wrench at 37 ft/lb or I'll strip the drain plug. The oil measurement gauge is a pain, you would think that it could be easier to measure the oil. Dipstick worked great but I realize it could be messy.
From your included picture it would appear that you take the time to ensure the car is level, a great starting point! Once all of the oil is out at least you should have a (mostly) empty sump and by filling with some amount of oil less than the specified quantity (say minus 1/2 liter) you should safely be able to start the car and read the electronic fill gauge. Sure all of this is a bit time consuming as compared to a dip stick but still not all that bad.
 

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Just got my Cresetter ii and reset all my maintenance items after updating the firmware. No more reminders.
 

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I know this is a dated post. However, I want to thank everyone here for the very valuable information. I have a pre-owned 2014 Cayman S and I performed my first oil change yesterday. I bought the 981 Oil Filter Change Kit for $21 from Suncoast and 2X 5-gallon jugs of Mobile 1 Advanced Full Synthetic 0W-40 for $22 each at Walmart. I planned in advance and purchased the Hazet 2169 Oil Filter Socket (14-Flute 74.4mm) on Amazon for $28, and just like everyone said, it fit like a glove. I used the gallon-size ziplock bag trick, which worked perfectly for me. I also made sure a I had an 8 mm hex-key socket and a cheater bar nearby.

The procedure went as follows:
1) Warmed up the engine oil temperature to ~190-215°F.
2) Chocked the front tires. Raised the rear of the 981 Cayman S using the jack point immediately in front of the exhaust (will investigate a Fabspeed Motorsports Rear Jack Point block for the future) and placed jack stands at the rear factory jack points on each side of the vehicle. I left the hydraulic jack just touching the rear jack point for added safety.
3) Placed the used oil collection reservoir underneath and loosened the oil pan drain plug with the 8 mm socket (needed the cheater bar...had to think twice that I was actually loosening the bolt!). Then I switched to an extension handle with universal-joint coupling to make sure my hands were very far from the hot oil.
4) Returned the 981 to level, removed the oil filler cap (inside the vehicle), and waited an hour for the 981 to finish draining. To pass the time, I replaced the engine air intake filters...lol...that's a whole different story! Took almost longer to do than the time invested in the oil change!!
5) At the end of the hour (maybe it was 2? See air filter comment above!), I set the 981 again on the jack stands and replaced the drain plug. Using the ziplock bag trick, I fit the Hazet adapter to the oil filter canister housing. I loosened it completely and unsuccessfully attempted to remove together both the adapter, which was on quite tight by this point, and the oil filter housing out from in between the oil pan and suspension struts. In the future, I will loosen the housing with the adapter, remove the adapter, and then finish removing the oil filter housing by hand...but carefully because parts up in there were still quite warm for touch. I cleaned the housing, replaced and lubed the new seal, and filled it about half full with the new oil. I soaked both ends of the new filter in the housing, rotating the filter and angling the housing for full coverage. I replaced oil that was soaked up by the filter as needed. It took quite a bit of pressure to push the new filter into the recess to catch the first threads of the housing. I tightened the housing by hand and finished seating it using the Hazet adapter. I did find a very convenient resting place for a small headlamp that gave me a clear view of the oil filter housing seating area (see attached image).
6) I returned the vehicle to level and used the remainder of 8 quarts to fill. I checked the level and I have 2 bars on the vehicle oil indicator. Others have stated that 8.25 to 8.5 quarts were needed and that 1.8 quarts is needed to fill from the low position to the high position, or approx. 0.4 quarts per segment, so I'll probably add another 0.5 quart sometime in the next week.

Unfortunately, I wasn't able to reset the oil change warning light. I bought a Creader V+ which did not have the right options. I guess I'll be on the lookout for a 7S model...definitely not easy to find anymore!
267795
 

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I know this is a dated post. However, I want to thank everyone here for the very valuable information. I have a pre-owned 2014 Cayman S and I performed my first oil change yesterday. I bought the 981 Oil Filter Change Kit for $21 from Suncoast and 2X 5-gallon jugs of Mobile 1 Advanced Full Synthetic 0W-40 for $22 each at Walmart. I planned in advance and purchased the Hazet 2169 Oil Filter Socket (14-Flute 74.4mm) on Amazon for $28, and just like everyone said, it fit like a glove. I used the gallon-size ziplock bag trick, which worked perfectly for me. I also made sure a I had an 8 mm hex-key socket and a cheater bar nearby.

The procedure went as follows:
1) Warmed up the engine oil temperature to ~190-215°F.
2) Chocked the front tires. Raised the rear of the 981 Cayman S using the jack point immediately in front of the exhaust (will investigate a Fabspeed Motorsports Rear Jack Point block for the future) and placed jack stands at the rear factory jack points on each side of the vehicle. I left the hydraulic jack just touching the rear jack point for added safety.
3) Placed the used oil collection reservoir underneath and loosened the oil pan drain plug with the 8 mm socket (needed the cheater bar...had to think twice that I was actually loosening the bolt!). Then I switched to an extension handle with universal-joint coupling to make sure my hands were very far from the hot oil.
4) Returned the 981 to level, removed the oil filler cap (inside the vehicle), and waited an hour for the 981 to finish draining. To pass the time, I replaced the engine air intake filters...lol...that's a whole different story! Took almost longer to do than the time invested in the oil change!!
5) At the end of the hour (maybe it was 2? See air filter comment above!), I set the 981 again on the jack stands and replaced the drain plug. Using the ziplock bag trick, I fit the Hazet adapter to the oil filter canister housing. I loosened it completely and unsuccessfully attempted to remove together both the adapter, which was on quite tight by this point, and the oil filter housing out from in between the oil pan and suspension struts. In the future, I will loosen the housing with the adapter, remove the adapter, and then finish removing the oil filter housing by hand...but carefully because parts up in there were still quite warm for touch. I cleaned the housing, replaced and lubed the new seal, and filled it about half full with the new oil. I soaked both ends of the new filter in the housing, rotating the filter and angling the housing for full coverage. I replaced oil that was soaked up by the filter as needed. It took quite a bit of pressure to push the new filter into the recess to catch the first threads of the housing. I tightened the housing by hand and finished seating it using the Hazet adapter. I did find a very convenient resting place for a small headlamp that gave me a clear view of the oil filter housing seating area (see attached image).
6) I returned the vehicle to level and used the remainder of 8 quarts to fill. I checked the level and I have 2 bars on the vehicle oil indicator. Others have stated that 8.25 to 8.5 quarts were needed and that 1.8 quarts is needed to fill from the low position to the high position, or approx. 0.4 quarts per segment, so I'll probably add another 0.5 quart sometime in the next week.

Unfortunately, I wasn't able to reset the oil change warning light. I bought a Creader V+ which did not have the right options. I guess I'll be on the lookout for a 7S model...definitely not easy to find anymore!
View attachment 267795
I just bought the Autel MD802 from amazon and used that to reset my oil change light. I've been changing the oil quite frequently but only recently had to reset the light since it hit the factory service interval.

I got it off amazon for CAD$88 and it's usually around CAD$120. The listing said it was damaged but when it got to me it was mint.

Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk
 

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Hi everyone. Thought I would create a thread on how to change your oil since there isn't a detailed one on the 981 sub forums. Please keep the thread on topic.

What you'll need

- Porsche Oil Filter Kit 9A110722400 (Includes oil filter element, filter cover O-ring, and crush washer for drain plug. I purchased mine at Suncoast. It happens to be the same kit as the 987.2.

- Mobil 1 0-40 oil. i purchased mine at Walmart in 2 5 quart jugs. Seems to be the best price at the moment.

- 8mm Allen wrench (torque specs- 37 ft-lbs drain plug, 19 ft-lbs oil filter cover...thanks RSchwerer)

- Oil filter wrench. I used the universal one from Sears with a 12" extension

- Everything else such as ramps/stands drain pan shop towels and a ziplock bag to wrap around the filter cover so oil doesn't spill everywhere when you remove the cover
Very confused here, for some reason some dealership replace the black oil filter housing (black cover cap) as well. Is that really necessary? I called a dealership in AL and they said they do not replace the filter housing unless something is wrong with it. A dealership in TX, however, does change it each time because they have to drill a hole or something (odd)...all you need is the oil wrench 74.4mm, 14-point - 3/8 right?

I had a boxster before never had to replace the housing. appreciate any info on this, i have a 2014 Porsche Cayman. iI am thinking all i need is oil, 1 Filter Cartridge, 1 Filter Housing Seal, 1 oil drain plug washer, and Oil. Is that about right?
 

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Very confused here, for some reason some dealership replace the black oil filter housing (black cover cap) as well. Is that really necessary? I called a dealership in AL and they said they do not replace the filter housing unless something is wrong with it. A dealership in TX, however, does change it each time because they have to drill a hole or something (odd)...all you need is the oil wrench 74.4mm, 14-point - 3/8 right?

I had a boxster before never had to replace the housing. appreciate any info on this, i have a 2014 Porsche Cayman. iI am thinking all i need is oil, 1 Filter Cartridge, 1 Filter Housing Seal, 1 oil drain plug washer, and Oil. Is that about right?
Sound right, I have had many oil changes done on both my 2013 Boxster and 2016 Boxster GTS, never ever replaced the black plastic housing, I think dealership in TX is either doing it wrong and damaging the housing or pulling a fast one.
 

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Its supposedly because of the filter bypass spring valve in the bottom. Its there to allow the oil to still flow even if the filter were to become completely clogged up with something and the pressure changes.

The theory is that it may become worn over time, so Porsche recommends replacing it all every few oil changes so that it reduces the chances of it becoming weak and going into filter bypass mode under normal conditions. Its why some will invest in a spin on adapter so the car can use a standard canister type filter.

I have no idea how many dealerships actually follow this procedure though.
 

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Its supposedly because of the filter bypass spring valve in the bottom. Its there to allow the oil to still flow even if the filter were to become completely clogged up with something and the pressure changes.

The theory is that it may become worn over time, so Porsche recommends replacing it all every few oil changes so that it reduces the chances of it becoming weak and going into filter bypass mode under normal conditions. Its why some will invest in a spin on adapter so the car can use a standard canister type filter.

I have no idea how many dealerships actually follow this procedure though.
Interesting, never had the cannister replaced in the past 5 years... Any Porsche sources that you can provide so I can read up on this?

thanks!
 

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Interesting, never had the cannister replaced in the past 5 years... Any Porsche sources that you can provide so I can read up on this?

thanks!
Me neither on any of my P cars. I chalked it up to just one of the many Porsche overzealous service recommendations used to keep their revenue stream machine running at full steam, just like plugs and belts with only a few thousand miles on them despite the exact same plugs and belts used on other cars for 80-100K.

Although not a direct Porsche source, this is the most recent discussion and could explain why the dealer wanted to change it in the discussion above, and LN Engineering which is very reputable seems to say its a real "thing" according to the OP in post #5

 

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Hi everyone. Thought I would create a thread on how to change your oil since there isn't a detailed one on the 981 sub forums. Please keep the thread on topic.

What you'll need

- Porsche Oil Filter Kit 9A110722400 (Includes oil filter element, filter cover O-ring, and crush washer for drain plug. I purchased mine at Suncoast. It happens to be the same kit as the 987.2.

- Mobil 1 0-40 oil. i purchased mine at Walmart in 2 5 quart jugs. Seems to be the best price at the moment.

- 8mm Allen wrench (torque specs- 37 ft-lbs drain plug, 19 ft-lbs oil filter cover...thanks RSchwerer)

- Oil filter wrench. I used the universal one from Sears with a 12" extension

- Everything else such as ramps/stands drain pan shop towels and a ziplock bag to wrap around the filter cover so oil doesn't spill everywhere when you remove the cover
Very helpful stuff, thanks for posting. Have you or anyone in this forum ever had to change the oil filters housing during an oil change? Apparently some dealerships change them after every oil change. Very odd

Also, have you or anyone here heard of this liqui moly engine oil used by many european auto repair shops out there? It is supposedly much better than Mobile 1 and what they actually use in Germany.
 

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Its been a while since anyone posted on this topic, thought I would give my update. I have a 2016 (981) Cayman S that I picked up certified last fall. Time for oil change and found out Porsche screwed the DIY guy when it comes to resetting the oil light.

After searching lots of different forums and getting conflicting messages and a false start with this:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00652G4TS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The bluedriver worked fine as a scan tool but could not reset the oil light as I was led to believe. There are cheaper scan tools out there so I sent this one back.

The safe answer was to get the Durametric but even the enthusiast setup is more than I wanted to spend.

I read mixed reviews on the iCarsoft tool. Some said it worked to reset oil light some not. Universal complaints on software update process though. I thought about getting the universal tool, but that again would require software downloads for each model of car I have. In the end I decided to try the POR II model hoping it would work out of the box without the hassle or security concern of software update.

I got it here:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F2WF96Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Shipped in two days, one day ahead of schedule. Quick scan of documentation showed it was not written by a native speaker but good enough. Did not really need much in directions. Plugged the unit in selected service icon. Selection oil service, key on / off a few times as directed. Voila oil light reset done! So in my sample of one I can say it worked slick right out of the box. If someone has had recent experience with the universal unit and software downloads that went well I would consider returning and replacing this unit with the universal one. I have not tried any other scan or maintenance functions yet, but I am good to go for now so its time for a drive.

I have used liquiMoly oil on my BMW and also used it for this oil change.
 

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Its supposedly because of the filter bypass spring valve in the bottom. Its there to allow the oil to still flow even if the filter were to become completely clogged up with something and the pressure changes.

The theory is that it may become worn over time, so Porsche recommends replacing it all every few oil changes so that it reduces the chances of it becoming weak and going into filter bypass mode under normal conditions. Its why some will invest in a spin on adapter so the car can use a standard canister type filter.

I have no idea how many dealerships actually follow this procedure though.
I installed the spin on filter for ease of changing the filter and finding the filter locally when needed. I also respect LN Engineering experience with the spin on filter and the bypass. It certainly makes the filter change easier. I am having second thoughts about the smaller filter media in the spin on filter but I am able to use the filter mag which is a plus. Enough rambling about my spin on filter and do not want to start another discussion or argument. So if you are concerned about a weakened by-pass spring in your original filter housing I see that Suncoast has the Porsche brand filter with the housing and “O” ring for $27 which is only about $9 more than just a filter at Pelican.
Jim
269776
D5BCFC80-7240-4CC2-B5F2-D51776C1494A.png
 

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If someone has had recent experience with the universal unit and software downloads that went well I would consider returning and replacing this unit with the universal one. I have not tried any other scan or maintenance functions yet, but I am good to go for now so its time for a drive.
I have the Autel MD802 and it works great. Oil and service reset, no problem on the 981. Includes support for all the Porsche OEM diagnostic codes from the dozen or so computers, and can read CANbus data for probably 50+ measurements across the computers. It supports just about every make and model of vehicle I've heard of. I have used it on my 981, a couple of Mazdas, a 987, and a VW Jetta.

I bought the full function model that supports unlimited vehicles. There is a single-vehicle version called DiagLink for < $100. You can add additional vehicles for $10.
 
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