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Air Filter Replacement

12K views 17 replies 14 participants last post by  512TXS  
#1 · (Edited)
On a roll this weekend with minor projects on the car. Thought I would check the air filters. I'm at 20K and thinking about changing them.

I won't go into details on removing the trim, there is a really detailed guide already on the site here:
http://www.planet-9.com/981-diy-discussion/103195-look-new-article-981-engine-cover-removal.html

But you just need to remove:
Left and right carpet inserts.
Left and right suspension mount covers.
Water/Oil horizontal trim piece
Rear Firewall Carpet Pad (vertical).

I made up those names, but they will make more sense with pics.

This is the right carpet insert in my car. It just pulls out from the top.



This is the right suspension mount cover. Best to have a nice wide trim removal tool for this.


Next is the horizontal trim bar that the oil and water openings are found. This can be pulled off with just your hands.



Last piece of trim is the thick and fairly heavy carpet pad on the firewall. It pulls out easily. I just pull from the center and set aside someplace very clean.



I had already examined my left (drivers) side air filter a few days ago. This is showing the more complicated right/passenger side filter removal. Note the grey pad protecting an ECU unit. Just pull it out and put aside.


The driver's side filter is visible on the left. The passenger's side filter is behind the ECU.
 
#2 · (Edited)
On the driver's side, you have clear access to the filter at this point. Remove the screw show with the yellow arrow with a T20 driver. Then squeeze the tabs shown by the green arrows together and pull hard. It will take some effort.


On the passenger side you need to move the ECU unit out of the way and disconnect the oil-fill tube. The yellow arrows show the four bolts holding the ECU unit in. It's a 10mm socket.


The black tube separates from the yellow plastic fill cup. You just pull down and it will pop off. It took some effort and was the only worrying part about this process. Have something handy to pick up and oil that might drip out anywhere. I stuffed everything with paper towels.


Same process here with the passenger filter. Remove the screw (yellow) and squeeze the green tabs together and pull.


You might find some bits in there...


Here is the filter removed. The replacement part is only the filter part starting and ending with the two orange sections. There are two screws that attach it to the black plastic body. I *think* they are also T20 but don't hold me to it. Also...there is a lot of grease on the seals...so be warned. If you're not careful it can get messy fast.



I just blew both my filters clean with an air compressor and will likely not actually replace them for another few thousand miles.

Reverse everything for re-assembly, noting that:
- Getting the filters lined up correctly for re-insertion can be a challenge. It took me several tries.
- Re-installing the trim pieces can be very challenging the first time. There are lots of little tricks for lining things up that I've learned through trial and error. DON'T FORCE ANYTHING. It all clicks nicely into place once you've got it lined up properly.

I hope this was helpful.

Cheers.
 
#3 ·
Thanks for these tips, I'm amazed at how much more difficult this is than the 987 AF. I guess Porsche is trying to discourage us from any DIY work on the car. Then maybe the engineers just figured this was the best place to put them and per usual gave no thought to what the techs would actually have to do to access them. I'm not looking forward to this maintenance item, but thankfully it won't be that often. I can get to my engine on the 987 in about five minutes, even put some pull straps under the carpet piece so I just lift it out easily. Not going to happen with the 981 though.....
 
#5 ·
Yeah...agreed that it's a PIA compared to the 987. But the good news is that it definitely gets easier with a little practice. The first time I removed the trim and carpet out the back when I replaced my struts it took me forever. Now at least I can easily strip it down in less than 3 or 4 minutes. Re-Assembly is always a bit longer though. :)
 
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#6 ·
Re: removing oil filler tube, as shown above- I found that you need to squeeze the black collar/clip around the yellow upper section as you pull down to separate the 2 parts
 
#8 ·
I'd also like to know that. And also if you need to remove the top 'bar' completely, and where are the clips, and how to lever it, as some clips are not vertical, like on the hatch piece that covers the 3rd brake light (they're sideways, rather than downward, as one would assume). Thanks in advance for any help;).
 
#10 ·
Nice tutorial. I just did this on my 981 BS. It's slightly different at the beginning part. it took about 1 hour because I didn't have the right tools. The process was easier than I thought, but I broke off one of the pull tabs on the filter assembly just yanking on it lol. BMC filter installed and sounds good!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=581ART6eAcM

This video has a quick section on the airfilter removal. Helps a lot also.
 
#11 ·
I just ordered replacement filters from Suncoast. I connected the air filter to the housing, and when i went to tighten the torx screws - the threads didn't grab. There was nothing pre-threaded in the new filters screw holes.

Did i get 2 defective air filters, or do they not come pre threaded?

Thanks for any help-
 
#12 · (Edited)
Im running aftermarket filters which have a brass threaded insert in them and are attached by machine screws, but if I remember correctly the factory filters I removed were held on using a coarse thread self tapping screws. If so, then they should tap themselves into the filter side. Coarse threaded screws are typically not matched to any pre drilled threads no matter what application they are being used for, unless you are saying the filter side hole is too big and there isnt anything for them to bite into?
 
#14 ·
^^ This. Am just doing this now, and the screws are impossible to get started on the new filters. I'm going to go to Home Depot for some sheet rock screws, which are normal self-tapping ones. This is one of the first projects I've done on my 981, and am honestly pretty underwhelmed with Porsche engineering.
 
#15 ·
I replaced my air filters two weekends ago, and it just took extra pressure in order to get the screws to start grabbing into the new air filter material.
It's a cost savings measure on part of the air filter producer, not an engineering issue.

Chances are, when they arrive at the Porsche factory, the mounting part is already attached to the filter element, so some poor person is having to assemble these things in Germany before the car is built.
Or they feed the two parts into a machine that knows exactly how much torque it takes to press the screw into the air filter body.

Just press down a bit harder, and it will start to bite in.

BC.