[Voyager6]

Just to let people know that the rear tweeters and subwoofer came in Friday. I have time this evening and will post photos tonight.

On Saturday, I decided to go whole hog and ordered the four mid ranges and the two door woofers, so it will be 100 percent Burmester speakers.

I still would like the VW part numbers for the connectors to make adapters, but am prepared to use alternative methods.

I ordered from Parts-Express, poly fill for the door woofer cavity, poor man's Dynamat sound deadening, a couple capacitors, and a ton of spade lug fittings, male and female.

I attempted to drill the extra holes in the vent covers and did not do well. Some thin metal strips are needed under the slats as I accidentially drilled three holes in the slats. Good thing it was a test piece.

I will be trying to use a thin cutting wheel and cut a square hole in the vent to allow the ribbon sound to get into the car. I have ordered 3/8" think speaker grill foam and intend to stuff it under the slats to hide the big hole. We'll see how that looks and sounds.

All this is moot, as my car has been delayed at BGB until 22 April. I have a DE the following weekend and so it will be May before the installation begins.

 

[981C_Pgh]

Thanks for the post! I would like the VW/Audi part numbers for the connectors.

One more question: Did you fill the door cavity with fiber to minimize boominess?

V6

Sorry, still not getting email notifications from this site... As for the door cavity, you can NOT fill them...The factory location for the woofer simply goes inside the door cavity...see attached picture and note the window track is right behind the woofer, so when the window is down there isn't much clearance behind the woofer..So there really isn't any way to stuff the doors with this configuration. But honestly, I don't see a need to do so. My Base 6.5" woofers sounded pretty good actually, when I installed the 220mm Burmester woofers they really sound amazing, and not boomy at all... If you replace the Bose woofer you'll replace that "boominess"! I also have a picture of the 100mm Burmester Midrange installed...they sound much more natural vs. the Bose I tried...day and night difference. As for the connectors, if you have Bose, all you need a terminal / pin removal tool for micro-timers, and the new connectors and it's an easy swap.
Woofer connector: 4B0 971 942
Midrange connector: 1H0 973 121 C
OEM VW Parts - OEM Volkswagen Parts Online | VWPartsVortex.com has the best prices, but spotty service as best (as they forgot to send one of my items, two different times, and delayed another order that I had to call to remind them.)

 

[Voyager6]

I've had PMs requesting that I list the Burmester part numbers. The prices are what I paid on line, but you may do better. Prices are for one piece.

Front tweeters (2) 7PP-035-411-E ($154.63) (need six screws and speed nuts)
Dash Center (1) 7PP-035-828-E ($68.47)
Door and rear mids (4 total) 7PP-035-415-G ($88.25)
Door Woofers (2) 7PP-035-454-H ($134.23 each)
Rear Tweeters (2) 7PP-035-412-A ($61.64) (snap in rear trim, but need wires)
Subwoofer (1) 991-645-575-00 ($629.22)

Note the AMT tweeters are 6 ohms, the Dash Center is 2 ohms vs 4 ohms for Bose
I am adding either a 1.5 ohm or 2 ohm audio grade non-inductive resistor 15 Watts to set volume level.

The mids are all 4 ohms and the rear tweeters are 4 ohms.
Sub is same as Bose, but I am not sure what the impedance is.

V6

 

[Voyager6]

I tried to order four 1H0 973 121 C and only 1 is available in the US at this time. Grrr. The door woofer connector was in stock.

V6

 

[Got Cayman]

Hello, I do have a pair of the 4" Bose speakers that I'm not using...But it depends what system you currently have... If you have the SPP, and thinking of upgrading to Bose or Burmester these won't work as intended as they are 2 ohm, where SPP uses 4 -6 ohm speakers..But if you're adding an amp and speakers these will certainly work as the rear cutout will only (easily) work with OEM Porsche 4" speakers

The 2 ohm Bose or Burmester tweeter will work but you will need a resistor in series with the positive speaker to lower the volume created by the decreased ohms.

 

[981C_Pgh]

I've had PMs requesting that I list the Burmester part numbers. The prices are what I paid on line, but you may do better. Prices are for one piece.

Front tweeters (2) 7PP-035-411-E ($154.63) (need six screws and speed nuts)
Dash Center (1) 7PP-035-828-E ($68.47)
Door and rear mids (4 total) 7PP-035-415-G ($88.25)
Door Woofers (2) 7PP-035-454-H ($134.23 each)
Rear Tweeters (2) 7PP-035-412-A ($61.64) (snap in rear trim, but need wires)
Subwoofer (1) 991-645-575-00 ($629.22)

Note the AMT tweeters are 6 ohms, the Dash Center is 2 ohms vs 4 ohms for Bose
I am adding either a 1.5 ohm or 2 ohm audio grade non-inductive resistor 15 Watts to set volume level.

The mids are all 4 ohms and the rear tweeters are 4 ohms.
Sub is same as Bose, but I am not sure what the impedance is.

V6

Note that the 100mm Midrange drivers are 2 ohms, as are Bose...However their DC resistance actually measures around 2.5V, so it's nominal resistance would be closer to 3 ohms. Also, the rear Burmester tweeter does NOT have a cap on it like the front Bose tweeters you're replacing do... so if you use them, you'll want to put a cap inline when you wire it up. The rear tweeter also use a slightly different connector (which I have two of along with the correct speaker terminals for the housing if you need them)..Better yet, I don't think there is any filter/crossover on the rear channel, so you may want to consider a 2-way passive crossover instead. I know the front channel on Bose is full-signal routing to the mids in the door (same wire splits to the dash tweeter) this signal was measured on ******** to confirm the full signal. I honestly didn't hear much of a benefit when I tried the rear tweeters out (as I could barely notice them) and I was concerned about lowering the impedance load by wiring in parallel (which is a non issue if you use a 2-way Xover). The Burmester mids play so much cleaner..
Lastly, you only need 4 screws & speed nuts for the AMT tweeters per my earlier post where they mount to the dash, but can't hurt to have extras...

 

[981C_Pgh]

The 2 ohm Bose or Burmester tweeter will work but you will need a resistor in series with the positive speaker to lower the volume created by the decreased ohms.

If you have the SPP system (or Base radio), the CDR31 receiver uses the internal amp to drive the front Mids & Tweeters and rear Mids and it's only stable down to 4ohms, any lower would over-drive the internal amp (SPP uses an outboard amp to drive just the door woofers and center channel, both 4 ohms). Bose uses an outboard amp to drive all speakers and it's 2 ohm stable...Burmerster amp is a step up in that is uses all active crossovers to drive each speaker individually (where Bose splits the front Mid/Tweeter channel)...

IMO, the SPP/Base 4" mid sounded more natural and smooth vs the Bose., so I personally wouldn't update it if it were me (they also use different pins, so you can't just swap the housing like you can upgrading from Bose to Burmester)...Nevertheless, I'd sell both 4" Bose cheap if anyone is interested, PM me..

 

[Voyager6]

Got the rest of the Burmester speakers in today. Photos of the ones that I have not yet posted:

4" mid used in doors and rear

Door Woofers:

 

[Voyager6]

Subwoofer:

Rear Tweeter:

Observations: The rear tweeters are heavy for their size. The door speakers, as shown in prior photos by 981C_Pgh, they are really big considering the relative size of the subwoofer. The cone material is not the same coarse fiber weave as the mids. The connector for the subwoofer can be a special connector or you can use the spade lug terminals. Notice that the voice coil dust cap is hard plastic and is large and dished. The mid-range connector pinout is similar to the front tweeters, except the connector has a bulge on it that a tab on the speaker catches. May be able to use the Bose connector with a bit of trimming, but until I get the car back in four weeks and see the Bose connector in person, I am left guessing.

V6 (Dark Knightless in Ohio )

 

[Voyager6]

Over the last couple days, I ordered the connectors (most of them) from VW and yesterday, in a highly questionable move, ordered a used 991 Burmester main amp with the intent of replacing the Bose amp with the Burmester as the plugs appear to be the same, with minor tweeter wiring changes (unpair the door mid wiring with the front AMT tweeters and add wiring to rear tweeters, which is missing).

If the Burmester amp isn't recognized by the PCM radio, I will sell it and use the Bose amp. If it works a future upgrade to the Burmester sub amp is next and the final complete upgrade to a 100 percent Burmester system.

I know from experience with the Nav TV backup camera that the PCM radio can be reset to scan the MOST fiber optic bus and add into the menus any audio/video devices found. The main issue is if the special Burmester menu items will be found and added automatically. Time will tell.

V6

 

[Porv8]

The Bose system has 12 speakers:
1. There is one 25W mid-range 80mm 4 ohm speaker in the dash
2. There are two 19mm 4 ohm tweeters (one on each side) in the dash and two in the rear of the passenger seats
3. There are two 100mm 2 ohm mid-range speakers in the front of the doors and two behind the rear tweeters.
4. There are two 220mm 1 ohm bass speakers in what looks like the rear of each door
5. There is one 130mm 4 ohm Subwoofer in the dash by the steering wheel

 

[Porv8]

I have been searching to replace the Bose 8" woofers on huge door cavities, and found a slim/shallow 8" 4 ohm woofers by Focal, IS200, $200 a pair (comes with ok tweeters, caps on all speakers). Mounting depth on these woofers is only 2 1/2", so with the windows down, they fit in just fine. I had to custom make the MDF brackets/baffles by local shop for $80/pair. Tweeters, I used Ciare CT250 (proven to my ears from $12K system), 4 ohm, shipped from Italy for $140, attached bass blocking caps $10. If you get 1" tweeters, you can fit them into existing grills with very minor fabrication. Total $430.

Tweeters match Bose 4 ohm impedance, but woofers 1 ohm to 4 ohm which can result in noticeable volume decrease. However, Focal with traditional woofer construction, unlike from Burmester and Bose's ultra shallow bracket with paper cone, Focal actually sounded remarkably better with clean punch and fairy deep low end extension. With PCM sound setting set to base gain and tweeter decrease, I was able to balance the volume effectively. I am quite satisfied with this minor modification, no more fatiguing from Bose booms and cheap high-ends.

I listened to Burmester, although it was clearly better than the Bose, but I believe you get better SQ out of aftermarket speakers. If anyone is interested, I will take the door panels apart and post pictures.

 

[Croc'ed]

Please do post pictures. I happen to have a pair of those Focal 200s sitting idle on a shelf in my garage...

 

[981C_Pgh]

I have been searching to replace the Bose 8" woofers on huge door cavities, and found a slim/shallow 8" 4 ohm woofers by Focal, IS200, $200 a pair (comes with ok tweeters, caps on all speakers). Mounting depth on these woofers is only 2 1/2", so with the windows down, they fit in just fine. I had to custom make the MDF brackets/baffles by local shop for $80/pair. Tweeters, I used Ciare CT250 (proven to my ears from $12K system), 4 ohm, shipped from Italy for $140, attached bass blocking caps $10. If you get 1" tweeters, you can fit them into existing grills with very minor fabrication. Total $430.

Tweeters match Bose 4 ohm impedance, but woofers 1 ohm to 4 ohm which can result in noticeable volume decrease. However, Focal with traditional woofer construction, unlike from Burmester and Bose's ultra shallow bracket with paper cone, Focal actually sounded remarkably better with clean punch and fairy deep low end extension. With PCM sound setting set to base gain and tweeter decrease, I was able to balance the volume effectively. I am quite satisfied with this minor modification, no more fatiguing from Bose booms and cheap high-ends.

I listened to Burmester, although it was clearly better than the Bose, but I believe you get better SQ out of aftermarket speakers. If anyone is interested, I will take the door panels apart and post pictures.

I considered the Focals (they are rated down to 40 Hz with 3.1 Ohm DC resistance). Another good choice is the Audison AP 8 (they are rated down a bit lower to 35 Hz, also 3.1 Ohm DC resistance, about $300/pair). I ultimately went with the Burmester mostly for the direct fitment, I was surprised to learn that their DC resistance measured about 1.5 Ohms, which put them a bit above 2 Ohms. (I was initially concerned that may amp wouldn't safely power them if they were really 1 ohm)...Here is a pic of someone who installed the Audison AP 8 and AP 4 (the 4 needs an adapter, the 8 can fit inside the OEM housing if you have the SPP 8")..For those with the Base system you can upgrade to the SPP OEM 8" from the Base 6.5".., probably the cheapest option...

 

[#thenewguy]

Hello, I do have a pair of the 4" Bose speakers that I'm not using...But it depends what system you currently have... If you have the SPP, and thinking of upgrading to Bose or Burmester these won't work as intended as they are 2 ohm, where SPP uses 4 -6 ohm speakers..But if you're adding an amp and speakers these will certainly work as the rear cutout will only (easily) work with OEM Porsche 4" speakers

Sorry again for the late reply. I have the CDR Plus which I believe has 235 watts so I'm not sure if I need the amp. How much do you want for the speakers?

 

[981C_Pgh]

Sorry again for the late reply. I have the CDR Plus which I believe has 235 watts so I'm not sure if I need the amp. How much do you want for the speakers?

PM sent... For others - note the base system uses the head unit to power the front & rear mids and it's only stable down to 4 ohms, however the Bose measures 2 ohms DC, so it's really closer to a 3 ohm speaker, but also uses different connectors.

 

[Voyager6]

The Burmester connectors for the mid range and door woofers are on the way. 981C_Pgh sent me a couple of connectors for the rear tweeters. Hopefully, I will have everything in a few days, but due to the car being in Florida and an upcoming track day, it may be the 8th before I can start swapping speakers.

V6

 

[Porv8]

Focal IS 200, 8" Woofers on custom MDF 1".
Dynamat Extreme install is highly recommended. These Porsche 991 door panels are bare metal without any insulating materials. Plastic vapor barrier is pretty solid and the coverage is spotless though. Applying Dynamat on bare door metal did indeed reduce some road noise, and induced more sound into the cabin.

 

[vactor]

what is the available mounting depth on the door woofers?
the burmester speakers seem to be available at a fantastic price. i am thinking of upgrading the base cdr31 system with the 6 main burmester speakers and a 6 channel amplifier and get some much better sound for a relatively amazing price. just thinking maybe getting something with more bass available for the door woofers .... hence the question on the available depth for the 8" bass speakers ...

 

[Got Cayman]

You need to use 4 ohm speakers with the base radio. I believe the Burmester speakers are 2 ohm. Make sure the amp you buy can accept speaker level inputs because the CD-R-31 does not have line level outputs.