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what is the available mounting depth on the door woofers?
the burmester speakers seem to be available at a fantastic price. i am thinking of upgrading the base cdr31 system with the 6 main burmester speakers and a 6 channel amplifier and get some much better sound for a relatively amazing price. just thinking maybe getting something with more bass available for the door woofers .... hence the question on the available depth for the 8" bass speakers ...
The Burmester 8" door speakers put out plenty of Bass with a decent amp and not much power is needed since they are slightly less than 2 ohms...I had to put some sound deadening in the doors to help with some rattles as they rock!
 
For what it is worth, I spent all day Monday installing the tweeters and both door speakers.

Tweeter installation went as advertised, but the door speakers were a pain, the pins in the woofer were wider than what fit the Burmester connector, so I wound up cutting and splicing wires. Not sure I got everything right and need to recheck the passenger door this weekend (as it is weak on bass), but the rear mids now sound awful compared to the fronts.

My Bose door speakers were full 8" cones, rather than 6.5 inches in a 8" bracket.

V6
 
I just replaced the four Bose 4" midrange speakers with the Burmesters. Wow! Much better. A good bang-for-the-buck improvement for about $400.

I found the Bose midrange speakers to be shrill and tinny, kind of like listening to an old AM radio. The Burmesters are clean and clear. Initially I just replaced the right side speakers so I could sit in the car and play with the balance and fader. The difference is immediately noticeable. Before I was turning up the bass and treble to try to drown out the bad midrange speakers. Now I have turned the bass and treble down to 0 and it sounds great.

Thanks to those who blazed the trail. Having the procedure and all the part numbers in one place was very helpful.
 
I ordered from Sunset Porsche in Oregon: sunsetporscheparts.com, or call them - the parts department is top notch and familiar with people and the burmester speaker upgrades...
 
Hey guys - I just traded in my Cayman- I enjoyed giving advice on the speaker swaps and sure hope it helps others going forward!

With that said:

I have a like new set of Burmester Tweeters (with wire harness), bolts, and the OEM Burmester Dash vents that'll fit any 981 Cayman / Boxster.

PM me if interested and I'll give a good deal for anyone here that's interested in the complete package (or I'd consider selling some parts separate).
 
I also have a gently used Audison 8.9 Bit - 8 channel amp (with custom bracket to fit under drivers seat) for anyone who has the base radio that wants to upgrade! PM me for details!
 
So, I actually went ahead and replaced the BOSE tweeters with the Burmester AMTs and was very happy with the result but... I actually forgot to put in the caps. The BOSEs clearly have bipolar caps in line, whereas I didn't see any on the Burmester AMTs.

Crap. I hope the caps on the BOSEs are just as a safety and that the BOSE amp has *some* crossover filtering on the outputs, and that I didn't fry the expensive Burmester AMTs by now? Does anyone know?
 
So, I actually went ahead and replaced the BOSE tweeters with the Burmester AMTs and was very happy with the result but... I actually forgot to put in the caps. The BOSEs clearly have bipolar caps in line, whereas I didn't see any on the Burmester AMTs.

Crap. I hope the caps on the BOSEs are just as a safety and that the BOSE amp has *some* crossover filtering on the outputs, and that I didn't fry the expensive Burmester AMTs by now? Does anyone know?
I don't know if there are any additional filters or not but the in line cap is likely the hi pass filter for the tweeter.
 
I don't know if there are any additional filters or not but the in line cap is likely the hi pass filter for the tweeter.
Well, yeah, that is my question. Is it really *the* high pass filter, or is it an additional high pass filter for safety, and the BOSE amp output is already filtered (at least to some extent)?

The question basically is: How did this not blow up yet?
 
Well, yeah, that is my question. Is it really *the* high pass filter, or is it an additional high pass filter for safety, and the BOSE amp output is already filtered (at least to some extent)?

The question basically is: How did this not blow up yet?
Sorry, poorly worded. i suspect you simply haven't exceeded the power handling capability yet. It's been awhile since I've seen anything but I think that the tweeter is wired in with the mid and woofer in a channel. I'd be adding the cap and not using it the the interim.
 
Sorry, poorly worded. i suspect you simply haven't exceeded the power handling capability yet. It's been awhile since I've seen anything but I think that the tweeter is wired in with the mid and woofer in a channel. I'd be adding the cap and not using it the the interim.
Sucks to hear, but thanks for telling. I have since been driving with the volume on zero, and will put in the caps as soon as possible. I hope I can get these vents off without denting them, the vent removal tool did that on the older BOSE-fitting vents (which I did not care too much about, given that I was replacing them at that time).
 
I now added the caps to the tweeters. Pictures with detailed descriptions here: https://flic.kr/s/aHsm3VGKnd

I did not hear any damage, but I am not sure how much I would notice (and whether things could sound better...). The wiring diagram from http://www.planet-9.com/981-cayman-...-and-boxster-electronics/113812-981-sound-plus-bose-stereo-wiring-diagrams.html suggests that front l/r low range is separate from the other front l/r speakers, which might also mean that there is some filtering on the amp output, which possibly prevented my tweeters from blowing up, but that's inconclusive.

As I expected, I did not manage to pull out the (stupidly expensive) vents without leaving them completely unscathed. I'm beginning to suspect that I'm using the tools wrong.

Overall I am very happy with my highs now, but it rather makes me notice how crappy the mids are. 8)
 
Over the last couple days, I ordered the connectors (most of them) from VW and yesterday, in a highly questionable move, ordered a used 991 Burmester main amp with the intent of replacing the Bose amp with the Burmester as the plugs appear to be the same, with minor tweeter wiring changes (unpair the door mid wiring with the front AMT tweeters and add wiring to rear tweeters, which is
missing).

If the Burmester amp isn't recognized by the PCM radio, I will sell it and use the Bose amp. If it works a future upgrade to the Burmester sub amp is next and the final complete upgrade to a 100 percent Burmester system.

I know from experience with the Nav TV backup camera that the PCM radio can be reset to scan the MOST fiber optic bus and add into the menus any audio/video devices found. The main issue is if the special Burmester menu items will be found and added automatically. Time will tell.

V6
Did the burmester amp swap work out? I just replaced the Bose tweeters in my 991.1 with the musicarnw upgrade kit and installed the burmester speakers in the doors, also some soundskins dampening material ... and disconnected the center. Trying to figure out if I can replace the Bose amp with the burmester ....
 
Did the burmester amp swap work out? I just replaced the Bose tweeters in my 991.1 with the musicarnw upgrade kit and installed the burmester speakers in the doors, also some soundskins dampening material ... and disconnected the center. Trying to figure out if I can replace the Bose amp with the burmester ....
No, the connector to the amp is similar, but the locking pegs are different and you'd need a Burmester wiriing harness. Then there is the programming of the PCM radio. Perhaps some guy in Russia could do that, but you take your chances.

V6
 
Thanks for the info ... so getting the new amp connector and repinning like for the speakers doesn’t work? Or is it the fiber side that’s different? Heard someone say they had the connector part number...
PCM doesn’t scan and find the amp automatically like some folks have hoped?
Thanks
Tom
 
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